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As mentioned, they ARE quite pricey. Then again, if you're gonna be lying under the car, I feel like it's worth having a stand system that's NEVER going to fail on you. I went into it knowing that I wanted stands that used actual pins, not stands with a ratcheting lock that could theoretically fail. Then I figured a very wide stance would be optimal for stability. Couple all that with the flat, round, rubber protected seat on the ESCO stands and you've got the perfect stand for the Corvette platform (no jacking pucks needed).
There are some other good solutions out there, but for my needs this was the only real way to go. 100% access to every part of the car that I would ever need to work on, and if I want, I can leave the jacks in place for redundancy. That, and I didn't want to ever be under the car with just 2 rolling hydraulic jacks supporting the entire thing (which you have to do to some degree to place the stands properly if you put them under the crossmembers).
Thank you for the referral. Reverse Logic now offers a stainless steel post with a 2.5" diameter pivoting head for the ESCO 10498/10499 stands. The head is interchangeable with a pivoting block for BMW/MB chassis. Hopefully, I will have a pinch weld head later this year.
If you attempt to raise your car using 4 jacks at the same time, be careful because the jacks have wheels and can move. Especially if you don't keep the car level and on a level surface.
Also, if you use the frame location points to raise the car and want to place jack stands at the same place, how would you do that using conventional jack stands?
I would suggest using ramps (I have 2 piece extended Race Ramps) to get the front end of high (then chock the front wheels), then use one jack under the rear (Bugman location dark pink) to raise the back. Then place jack stands under the back frame locations.
Then you can raise the front slightly, using one jack at the front (Bugman location dark pink) and then place the front jack stands under the front frame locations.
