When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Saw those as well, saved to favorites. Ready this morning for caliper swap, then onto the bleeding, hopefully the brake gods will allow a smooth evolution.
usually i like to use a bleeder bottle and pump the brakes with a helper so that the screw is closed on the up stroke as it seems that the bleeder screws are too loose in the caliper and allow air in. the same seems to happen with the vacuum bleeders.
All my helpers have abandoned me for mall shopping adventures.....
I have that trouble too usually i can get a fairly good job just opening the bleeder with the hose submerged in some fluid in the bottom of the bottle. but it seems better when i have a helper
usually i like to use a bleeder bottle and pump the brakes with a helper so that the screw is closed on the up stroke as it seems that the bleeder screws are too loose in the caliper and allow air in. the same seems to happen with the vacuum bleeders.
Yup, and old coke bottle or I think I used a Gatorade bottle last time, don't forget the clear tubing. I like old school mostly because they are simple techniques and almost free. Yup I found it. This is what I use when replacing all the fluid in the system.
I have the professional version of the Mityvac, great tool but mine won't draw enough vacuum to bleed brakes. When I don't have a helper, I'll 7se the gravity method. Gravity works most of the time as long as the valve in the Master Cylinder is open - I think the pedal has to be absolutely at the top of its travel. I seemed to have had an issue with that once.
I'm leery of using power bleeders, brake fluid under pressure can spray into hard to clean places.
Well, swapped calipers, started bleeding, RR nice solid stream came out. LF lots of air, couldn't get solid stream. LR same. RF nice and solid.
Ran out of fluid, so right now on to see if i can find a bleeder that can pressurize the reservoir otherwise I'll continue to suck fluid off until a solid stream is achieved. I might have a loose banjo bolt. So i need to squeeze the pedal to verify.
More news as they develop. ....
Ok, so now i seem to have a good pedal! Bled the brakes twice, pumped the pedal and found a leaky banjo bolt. Replaced the crush washers and gave it the ol' german torque. Bled again and this time nice steady stream of fluid. Started the car, put it in drive and took it to 10mph then squeezed the brake pedal. Did this twice more. Bled the brakes again and got even more air, especially the front left and right rear circuit.
Pumped the pedal, nice and stiff like if i used viagra on the fluid! Tightened that pesky banjo bolt again, no apparent leaks.
1. Re installed the calipers in their correct side, bleed screws facing up
2. Ensured all banjo bolts, hose connections, are straight and tight
3. Seems like i was able to energize the ABS solenoids and allow more air out of the brake system when i put it in gear and then pushed the brake pedal.
4. You can't never have enough brake fluid.....
5. Used a air compressor assisted vacuum brake bleeder
6. Cranked the bleeder screw no more than a 1/4 of a turn otherwise air will get in the system.
I'll check again before bringing the car down. Also wanted to wash the engine compartment before taking to the tuner, i can appreciate a clean working environment. ...
More news later on. Thank you guys for point4me in the right direction! !
I love you
Last edited by RicardoFors68; Aug 30, 2015 at 01:41 PM.
One time I got enough tygon tubing to run it from the right rear bleeder and over the roof down the windshield. Than clipped the other end of the tubing back into the master cylinder reservoir. Cracked the bleeder valve open and pumped away until I had no air.
Had to put a rag under the bleeder valve due to small amount of fluid coming off threads on bleeder.
Laugh but it worked.
Oh yeah, pics and video coming up tomorrow, thank you guys
Just to point out, the front and rear brakes are cross linked, lf to rr and rf to lr. That way, if you lose one circuit, the other will still give you a front and rear brake. In the old days, losing the front circuit meant you had only the rear brakes to stop the car with, dangerous and much longer stopping distance.
Just to point out, the front and rear brakes are cross linked, lf to rr and rf to lr. That way, if you lose one circuit, the other will still give you a front and rear brake. In the old days, losing the front circuit meant you had only the rear brakes to stop the car with, dangerous and much longer stopping distance.
Read this many times over, is now imprinted in my DNA . I would add that you can visualize this when you have air in one side, it'll reflect in the other half of the circuit. Chasing that loose banjo bolt in the front left introduced air in the right rear. The other wheels were perfect the whole time.
Woke up to rain so my efforts have been reduced to installing two wheels... this needs to stop so that i can road rest and re bleed...
The rotos look good. Did u also painted the rotor hats and edges? What paint did u use? I need to do this. But I am waiting until I get my calipers powder coated too