MattxFatal

I've got a 2012 GS, old white reservoir and no DOT 4 on the cap. I have to do the Ranger Method every other month due to the fluid turning black but not too much issue with the clutch and I've never had it stick to the floor on me. Think it's wise to bring the issue up to a dealership even though I am not having the sticking issue?

Thanks.

-Matt

RobJoy

What year model is yours? Is it the base model?

MattxFatal

It's a 2012 optioned out Centennial Edition GS.

spoolngc8

I haven't read thru all 22 pages but I was directed here after posting an issue I had.. the hose going from the master to the salve has ruptured below the master around the area where its closest to the exhaust manifold. Does this sound like something that would of been a cause of this recall? Car is a 2011 Grandsport.

FAUEE

I got bit by this on Friday. Car is sitting at the Chevy dealership, hopefully they fix it without issue.

spoolngc8

So I called the dealer about this earlier today and they said that my VIN does show up on the list of vehicles that could be affected by this. It was not on the "recall" list but on some special fix list. The guy asked me if I had modified the car though and I said just an exhaust. The car has a cam and full exhaust from the header back. It obviously has also been dyno tuned. He said the exhaust wouldn't have an effect on the transmission but then specifically asked if I had the car dyno tuned.. I said no. He said its basically anything done to the car that could directly effect this issue. Now he acted as if a dyno tune would effect a trans line but I know it wouldnt.. so im thinking of just keeping quiet about it and seeing what happens. Anyone have any experience getting this fix done with a modified car??

919cw313

That's because there is no clutch recall.

spoolngc8

Well, yes, as I found out. It calls for a master cylinder replacement anyhow. I was linked to this thread from another and the person had mentioned it was a "recall" so I had the stuck in my head for whatever reason. No input on the other content of that post?

919cw313

^ Well, sure. I don't see your symptoms being covered under the special policy.

spoolngc8

Like I said I didn't read the entirety of this thread yet I was just wondering if anyone had also experienced a similar situation. I really dont know a ton about why/what exactly occurs i've been crazy swamped with work and a myriad of other personal things going on. You dont think the "high pressure pulse" could cause a failure in the hose? Or at least I could try and convince the dealer of that? I can fix it on my own but if the dealer will replace the hose and master for free i'd much rather do that.

Dano523

The recall of the master cylinder is because the old one could end up with the end plunger on the shaft being sucked off only!!!! And it ending up in the body of the cylinder no longer attached to the rod.
So really, until the end plunger does fall off, you have to have the vet flat bedded to the dealer. GM does not want to see the car to begin with.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-pressure.html


Outside of this end plunger problem happening, any other repairs will be on the owners dime. Hence your hose rupturing due to the heat of the headers, will not be covered under the TSB program for the clutch master cylinder replacement.

Worst yet, the flex hose part of the clutch line that did heat blow, is part of the slave cylinder, not the master cylinder line, so to get the slave cylinder replaced, you have to drop the drive line, so your looking at a $2K labor bill to start with to pull and replace the drive line, then have the rear tires realigned in the end.

spoolngc8

Thank you for this reply! My original suspicions were that the heat from the headers caused the failure. I know that the unit comes as one piece with the slave attached.. which is why I was investigating this 'special fix' instance I read about. The book time for the job is 9-10 hours from what i'm seeing! I dont want to do it unless absolutely necessary so I am going to attempt to cut the ruptured section out and put a compression union in and run a new flex section of hose to the master. I stumbled upon a thread where someone did exactly this. Oh well..

Proff

My experience: If you drive your car to the dealership, IT IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE RECALL !
My pedal stuck to the floor, was able to get it back working. I made appointment, they kept it a few hours while I went to eat pancakes, they "couldn't duplicate in a series of successive failures", and returned my car to me. Bought the brand new 're-designed' GM master assembly, and had a mechanic install it.
So let me quote one of the biggest Corvette-lovin' Chevy dealerships in Texas:
UNLESS YOUR VETTE IS ON A FLATBED TOWTRUCK PULLING UP TO THE SERVICE DEPT, IT IS LIKELY YOU DO NOT HAVE A CLUTCH RECALL.

Pay for it yourself... I did.

Corvette_Ed

This is incorrect. I drove mine to the dealer, they tested it, and it failed the test. It was completely covered under the recall.

Mike's LS3

It depends on the dealership, most will not repair unless failure. However, I drove my car in and the clutch MC was replaced under warranty. It is a service bulletin and not a recall. According to the letter GM sent me, the clutch MC is warranted for 10 yrs or 120,000 miles whichever occurs first.

BlindSpot

If you have long tube headers with a manual and the installer didn't know what he was doing, the clutch hydraulic line that runs across close to the header is subject to melting. If this is your case and you didn't have an engine fire, consider it a blessing.



Some stories here on CF of guys who lost the car BC the line burned and fluid caught fire destroying the car.

DARTH VETTER

Just had my ‘10 ZR1(14K miles)and my son’s ‘09 Z06(19K miles)done for free while we were having the annual fluids replaced(oil, tranny, diff, brakes, etc.) and some other warranty issues addressed. Told them about the pedal issue and even took them Motul 600 to use for the clutch and brakes instead of the AC Delco.
Both cars were driven in and not towed. No issues whatsoever.
Day’s Chevrolet in Acworth, GA. I’m pretty OCD about my cars, but Kelly is one of the best Vette Techs I’ve met, he’s legit.

RickCC6

I was backing out the driveway last weekend to make room to wash the wife's car. made a quick run to the buy some some carwashing supplies and notice the clutch pedal to soft. got home and the clutch stayed at the bottom when i was reversing the car. After that i noticed the clutch started making a weird "hissing" noise when ever i pressed it. proceeded to do the ranger method and replaced the fluid with prestone DOT4. hissing noise continued. decided to take it to the dealer the next day.

dealer replaced the slave cylinder at no cost as stated under the special coverage or "recall" clutch hissing continued. now they tell me i need a new flywheel, throw out bearing and clutch. they are charging me for 13 hours of labor + parts a grand total of 2300 + tax! now im not sure what to do. fix it there? they told me they will charge me labor only if i buy the parts. they will give me warranty if the parts are OEM, if aftermarket, no warranty.

any advice is greatly appreciated from you guys, i dont know if im just too picky or scared to let just anyone work on my car. the dealer is expensive but its certified. ive called several places and while it is cheaper, not sure if i can trust them. and thats just my .02 cents on whats happening right now. on a side note, warranty doesnt cover clutches so no help there.

i was always real careful to not ride the clutch and take care of it and my shifts. i guess the previous owner wasnt too concerned about the future.

Dano523

Would be pissed if GM pulled the Drive line to replace the slave cylinder on a special recall for a slave cylinder, and did not check the rest of the clutch parts when they had the drive line off the car to see if they needed to be replaced as well.

Hence the subject to this topic is just the clutch master cylinder, and that is changed without having to drop the drive line since you can get to it through the driver side front wheel well liner.

So on your clutch problem, if they did in fact replace the slave on some special recall (guessing TB problem), would get GM corporate on the phone to go over the problem. Hence Gm has to warranty the work they did (took in for problems to start with, and the problem was not resolve), and if they had the drive line out to address the special slave cylinder problem, which could have effected the clutch parts as well, then such should have been replaced when they where in there replacing the slave as well: or if nothing else checked, and if clutch parts where needed to be replaced , should have only paid for the clutch parts when the drive line was pulled the first time isntead.

Bottom line, if it does come to a pissing match and since there did have the drive line dropped to replace the slave cylinder on some special recall, would play the game the other way and tell they you will pick up the cost of the clutch parts, but they eat the cost of labor to pull the drive line a second time since they did not check the clutch parts when they did have the drive out for the slave replacement in the first place.

To be truthful, any time the drive line is pulled, if you are running a OEM clutch, have them replace it and all it parts while they are in there. Clutch/flywheel/Pilot/slave is only around $600 and a lot cheaper than if they have to go in later to replace it them instead.

One last thing, and if you find a good independent shop, have seen labor costs to drop and reinstall a drive line for around $1K instead. Throw in the clutch parts, and your still under $2k, which is about the charge for GM labor cost to pull and reinstall the drive line instead.

919cw313

I don't see any labor overlap as far as driveline r&i goes. What am I missing?