Front Amber Running Light/Signal Out
11-30-2015, 03:50 PM
#1
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Front Amber Running Light/Signal Out
The front passenger Amber running light does not work (it is supposed to be on all the time). And the turn signal also does not work. It is a dual element bulb. When I turn on the "dusk" light, that amber dusk light works in that bulb. I have replaced the bulb twice and it is not the bulb. It is as if the turn signal bulb element is burnt out, but it's not. Blinks really rapidly on dash.
I don't see a turn signal fuse in the fuse box. Is there another location for this fuse? Anything else I could check?
Appreciate any help here!
I don't see a turn signal fuse in the fuse box. Is there another location for this fuse? Anything else I could check?
Appreciate any help here!
11-30-2015, 04:10 PM
#2
Race Director
The front passenger Amber running light does not work (it is supposed to be on all the time). And the turn signal also does not work. It is a dual element bulb. When I turn on the "dusk" light, that amber dusk light works in that bulb. I have replaced the bulb twice and it is not the bulb. It is as if the turn signal bulb element is burnt out, but it's not. Blinks really rapidly on dash.
I don't see a turn signal fuse in the fuse box. Is there another location for this fuse? Anything else I could check?
Appreciate any help here!
I don't see a turn signal fuse in the fuse box. Is there another location for this fuse? Anything else I could check?
Appreciate any help here!
11-30-2015, 04:18 PM
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11-30-2015, 05:57 PM
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Have recently installed amp and subwoofer, accessing area in front of passenger floor mat area to remove stock amp. Maybe accidentally dislodged or unplugged turn signal relay there?
11-30-2015, 06:06 PM
#6
Race Car Tech
Did you try changing the bulb in the rear? That might be worth a gamble? Change it out with the driver side one.
11-30-2015, 10:22 PM
#8
Easy fix, and if you have gotten to the bulb once to check it, then you will need to do it again.
http://www.theredlion.us/C6%20DRL%20DIY.pdf
On the socket that the bulb snaps into, there is fat tabs on one side, and a small tabs on the other side.
It the smaller tabs that will need to bend back towards the center of the slot to allow a connection to the bulb tombstone wires that is causing the problem.
So with a pick tool, start with the wide tabs to bend them more towards the center of the slot, the tab that does not have the top C type protector, then using a small sewing needle is need to get under the tab C part to catch the top of the last tab, start to work it out from the hood section that protects the top of it, then get a pick type tool under the tab to bend the tab more outward towards the center of the slot in the end. When you are done, just make sure that all the tabs are bend inwards toward the center of the slot so when you install the bulb, all the tabs are making a clean contact with the wires on the bulb tombstone. Also, with the pick tool, try to clean up the front surfaces of the tabs if they have any corrosion (small sliver piece of 400 sandpaper works to).
Once you have the tabs bent more inwards so they will make a connection and before you install the bulb, go heavy on the dielectric grease in the slot. Not only will the dielectric grease keep the tabs clean, but also works as a heat transfer paste so the tabs and even the plastic connector socket do not get hot again to bend the tabs back outwards again as well.
With one side done on the car, not a bad ideal to go over the other side tweak/ bend the tab and grease it up that bulb socket as well. If you get time, not a bad idea to do the rear tail lights with at least grease, and maybe even pull apart the rear light harnesses (inside the fender cover just below the inner passanger tail light), to clean and grease it's connectors pins as well.
And truth me, when you pull the bulbs and see how far back the small tabs have heat bent away from the center of the slot and no way they are making contact with the wire on the bulbs tombstone, you understand right way the connector problem at the connector itself. Hence just another areas that if GM had used some electrical grease during the build when connecting electrical parts, would never had been a problem in the first place.
http://www.theredlion.us/C6%20DRL%20DIY.pdf
On the socket that the bulb snaps into, there is fat tabs on one side, and a small tabs on the other side.
It the smaller tabs that will need to bend back towards the center of the slot to allow a connection to the bulb tombstone wires that is causing the problem.
So with a pick tool, start with the wide tabs to bend them more towards the center of the slot, the tab that does not have the top C type protector, then using a small sewing needle is need to get under the tab C part to catch the top of the last tab, start to work it out from the hood section that protects the top of it, then get a pick type tool under the tab to bend the tab more outward towards the center of the slot in the end. When you are done, just make sure that all the tabs are bend inwards toward the center of the slot so when you install the bulb, all the tabs are making a clean contact with the wires on the bulb tombstone. Also, with the pick tool, try to clean up the front surfaces of the tabs if they have any corrosion (small sliver piece of 400 sandpaper works to).
Once you have the tabs bent more inwards so they will make a connection and before you install the bulb, go heavy on the dielectric grease in the slot. Not only will the dielectric grease keep the tabs clean, but also works as a heat transfer paste so the tabs and even the plastic connector socket do not get hot again to bend the tabs back outwards again as well.
With one side done on the car, not a bad ideal to go over the other side tweak/ bend the tab and grease it up that bulb socket as well. If you get time, not a bad idea to do the rear tail lights with at least grease, and maybe even pull apart the rear light harnesses (inside the fender cover just below the inner passanger tail light), to clean and grease it's connectors pins as well.
And truth me, when you pull the bulbs and see how far back the small tabs have heat bent away from the center of the slot and no way they are making contact with the wire on the bulbs tombstone, you understand right way the connector problem at the connector itself. Hence just another areas that if GM had used some electrical grease during the build when connecting electrical parts, would never had been a problem in the first place.
Last edited by Dano523; 11-30-2015 at 10:31 PM.
11-30-2015, 10:28 PM
#9
Race Car Tech
^^^^ That makes sense for sure. Worth a try, and if you do get it sorted out, please post back the results. It may just help someone in the future.
12-01-2015, 08:10 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Easy fix, and if you have gotten to the bulb once to check it, then you will need to do it again.
http://www.theredlion.us/C6%20DRL%20DIY.pdf
On the socket that the bulb snaps into, there is fat tabs on one side, and a small tabs on the other side.
It the smaller tabs that will need to bend back towards the center of the slot to allow a connection to the bulb tombstone wires that is causing the problem.
So with a pick tool, start with the wide tabs to bend them more towards the center of the slot, the tab that does not have the top C type protector, then using a small sewing needle is need to get under the tab C part to catch the top of the last tab, start to work it out from the hood section that protects the top of it, then get a pick type tool under the tab to bend the tab more outward towards the center of the slot in the end. When you are done, just make sure that all the tabs are bend inwards toward the center of the slot so when you install the bulb, all the tabs are making a clean contact with the wires on the bulb tombstone. Also, with the pick tool, try to clean up the front surfaces of the tabs if they have any corrosion (small sliver piece of 400 sandpaper works to).
Once you have the tabs bent more inwards so they will make a connection and before you install the bulb, go heavy on the dielectric grease in the slot. Not only will the dielectric grease keep the tabs clean, but also works as a heat transfer paste so the tabs and even the plastic connector socket do not get hot again to bend the tabs back outwards again as well.
With one side done on the car, not a bad ideal to go over the other side tweak/ bend the tab and grease it up that bulb socket as well. If you get time, not a bad idea to do the rear tail lights with at least grease, and maybe even pull apart the rear light harnesses (inside the fender cover just below the inner passanger tail light), to clean and grease it's connectors pins as well.
And truth me, when you pull the bulbs and see how far back the small tabs have heat bent away from the center of the slot and no way they are making contact with the wire on the bulbs tombstone, you understand right way the connector problem at the connector itself. Hence just another areas that if GM had used some electrical grease during the build when connecting electrical parts, would never had been a problem in the first place.
http://www.theredlion.us/C6%20DRL%20DIY.pdf
On the socket that the bulb snaps into, there is fat tabs on one side, and a small tabs on the other side.
It the smaller tabs that will need to bend back towards the center of the slot to allow a connection to the bulb tombstone wires that is causing the problem.
So with a pick tool, start with the wide tabs to bend them more towards the center of the slot, the tab that does not have the top C type protector, then using a small sewing needle is need to get under the tab C part to catch the top of the last tab, start to work it out from the hood section that protects the top of it, then get a pick type tool under the tab to bend the tab more outward towards the center of the slot in the end. When you are done, just make sure that all the tabs are bend inwards toward the center of the slot so when you install the bulb, all the tabs are making a clean contact with the wires on the bulb tombstone. Also, with the pick tool, try to clean up the front surfaces of the tabs if they have any corrosion (small sliver piece of 400 sandpaper works to).
Once you have the tabs bent more inwards so they will make a connection and before you install the bulb, go heavy on the dielectric grease in the slot. Not only will the dielectric grease keep the tabs clean, but also works as a heat transfer paste so the tabs and even the plastic connector socket do not get hot again to bend the tabs back outwards again as well.
With one side done on the car, not a bad ideal to go over the other side tweak/ bend the tab and grease it up that bulb socket as well. If you get time, not a bad idea to do the rear tail lights with at least grease, and maybe even pull apart the rear light harnesses (inside the fender cover just below the inner passanger tail light), to clean and grease it's connectors pins as well.
And truth me, when you pull the bulbs and see how far back the small tabs have heat bent away from the center of the slot and no way they are making contact with the wire on the bulbs tombstone, you understand right way the connector problem at the connector itself. Hence just another areas that if GM had used some electrical grease during the build when connecting electrical parts, would never had been a problem in the first place.
Thats's what I ended up doing to get it to work along with some dielectric grease.
12-03-2015, 06:09 PM
#11
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Thanks guys for your attentive response... I haven't had a chance yet to inspect, tomorrow day off so will get on it and report what I find. And I did check all other signals/emergency flashers do work, so it's not the relay.
Last edited by rapido1; 12-03-2015 at 06:11 PM.