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Automatic Shifter Lock Up?

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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 12:20 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LV2TOUR
according to the GM technical services, this is why it happens.

Pre-Amble – WHY IT HAPPENS:
C6 2005-2013 -Automatic Transmission - Stuck in Neutral or Drive or won’t shift out of Park.
Mine is a 2008 with 20,000 miles. I do plan to drill the hole in the latch and wire it back per your advice and photos to prevent being stuck in Park.

Thank you for providing GM's explanation.

It seems the pre-amble you quoted infers the problem is easily avoided if you give the system a few seconds to get in sync. However, we know that the assembly seems to be deteriorating due to stretching or temperature or something wearing down.

And, today, the dealer's cure was to replace the shifter assembly for $700 rather than to simply tell me to delay shifting out of Park.

It would seem GM should update their "Why It Happens" explanation to include comments regarding what leads up to the need to replace the shifter.

Anyway, I was hoping to understand what is actually changing. Had I read all the threads relating to this issue prior to my visit to the dealer today, I would have taken the time to press them for more information.

They told me they would diagnose the problem and if I decided not to get it fixed, they would charge me for the diagnosis. I told them to forget it. But, they did the "diagnosis" anyway and suggested I have them replace the shifter.
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 08:26 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by FrankPC
Mine is a 2008 with 20,000 miles. I do plan to drill the hole in the latch and wire it back per your advice and photos to prevent being stuck in Park.

Thank you for providing GM's explanation.

It seems the pre-amble you quoted infers the problem is easily avoided if you give the system a few seconds to get in sync. However, we know that the assembly seems to be deteriorating due to stretching or temperature or something wearing down.

And, today, the dealer's cure was to replace the shifter assembly for $700 rather than to simply tell me to delay shifting out of Park.

It would seem GM should update their "Why It Happens" explanation to include comments regarding what leads up to the need to replace the shifter.

Anyway, I was hoping to understand what is actually changing. Had I read all the threads relating to this issue prior to my visit to the dealer today, I would have taken the time to press them for more information.

They told me they would diagnose the problem and if I decided not to get it fixed, they would charge me for the diagnosis. I told them to forget it. But, they did the "diagnosis" anyway and suggested I have them replace the shifter.
I think the problem will return even with a new shifter at some point!
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 09:04 AM
  #23  
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GM knew of this problem in other cars in the early 2000s. I have a 2004 DTS and it has an access panel to allow you to get the car out of park. It is buried under a pad and the information is in the owners manual. Too bad they did not do this for the C6. None of us want to have our cars flat beded anywhere, especially when GM knew it was an issue, and they had a temporary fix for the owners. It is also embarrassing to have a premier car broke down.
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 09:14 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Mark H
I think the problem will return even with a new shifter at some point!
Yes. Without a new design, it's bound to. You'd think if engineers are able to design an automobile as beautiful and long lasting as the Corvette, that those same engineers would feel compelled to analyze the design shortcomings of the "Shifter Assembly" and improve it. To do so is necessary if not for its reliability, then at least for the safety aspect of the current design.

But, of course, to admit the design had to be changed, would be to admit there is an issue with it that could result in further consequences.

I plan to enter a "complaint" today at https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/ . There are already several there regarding this subject.
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 09:16 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Cooter Tech
GM knew of this problem in other cars in the early 2000s. I have a 2004 DTS and it has an access panel to allow you to get the car out of park. It is buried under a pad and the information is in the owners manual.
Amazing!
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 10:34 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Cooter Tech
GM knew of this problem in other cars in the early 2000s. I have a 2004 DTS and it has an access panel to allow you to get the car out of park. It is buried under a pad and the information is in the owners manual. Too bad they did not do this for the C6. None of us want to have our cars flat bedded anywhere, especially when GM knew it was an issue, and they had a temporary fix for the owners. It is also embarrassing to have a premier car broke down.
I've made this comment before on other threads, but have yet to hear anyone's opinion on it.

What I've said was, that if I got stuck somewhere because of this problem I would cut the shifter boot apart and release the pawl in favor of getting it towed.

To tie the pawl back before the problem appears, or to cut the shifter boot as above and then fixing it later both require removing the console. Of course, I would have to buy a new boot with choice #2.

What I'd like to know: Is it possible to get at the pawl by cutting the boot?
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 10:36 AM
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I'm not sure where/how this "delay" shifting out of park ever got out as a cure for this problem. This problem is deeper than travel time of current. I mean lets face it, electricity travels at about 186,000 miles per second, just how long should it take to travel the 3-4 feet to the solenoid ? Most forum members have hit the nail on the head as the problem is the solenoid itself failing. And you can't buy the solenoid by itself, you have to buy the whole shifter assembly.....Thanks GM.....
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 10:46 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FrankPC
Mine is a 2008 with 20,000 miles. I do plan to drill the hole in the latch and wire it back per your advice and photos to prevent being stuck in Park.

Thank you for providing GM's explanation.

It seems the pre-amble you quoted infers the problem is easily avoided if you give the system a few seconds to get in sync. However, we know that the assembly seems to be deteriorating due to stretching or temperature or something wearing down.

And, today, the dealer's cure was to replace the shifter assembly for $700 rather than to simply tell me to delay shifting out of Park.

It would seem GM should update their "Why It Happens" explanation to include comments regarding what leads up to the need to replace the shifter.

Anyway, I was hoping to understand what is actually changing. Had I read all the threads relating to this issue prior to my visit to the dealer today, I would have taken the time to press them for more information.

They told me they would diagnose the problem and if I decided not to get it fixed, they would charge me for the diagnosis. I told them to forget it. But, they did the "diagnosis" anyway and suggested I have them replace the shifter.
After they replace the shifter assembly for a whopping $700 they will then tell you they need to replace the shifter cable for another $500. The plastic bushing on the end of the cable becomes brittle over time and when attaching the shifter assembly to it can potentially break that bushing.
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 02:51 PM
  #29  
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I tied my pawl back 3-4 years ago and can't really remember the set up. A wild guess would be to say that yes that one may be able to access the needed area after cutting a hole in the boot. I guess if one got the chance to study an already opened up shifter assembly then they could narrow down where to make the cut and keep it to a minimum, possibly making a small enough hole where as it could be repaired and not noticed. But I guess in a pinch I would rather just cut the heck out of the boot and replace it cause having to get towed sux !!!! I'm sure there are some pics of the exposed shifter and pawl available in this forum.
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruze
I've made this comment before on other threads, but have yet to hear anyone's opinion on it.

What I've said was, that if I got stuck somewhere because of this problem I would cut the shifter boot apart and release the pawl in favor of getting it towed.

To tie the pawl back before the problem appears, or to cut the shifter boot as above and then fixing it later both require removing the console. Of course, I would have to buy a new boot with choice #2.

What I'd like to know: Is it possible to get at the pawl by cutting the boot?
You could cut the boot to gain access to the pawl.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-finally.html
Post #18 in this thread shows how to remove the boot with the console off to gain access to the pawl.
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 03:43 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Bruze
What I'd like to know: Is it possible to get at the pawl by cutting the boot?
I plan to do mine soon before the inevitable happens. I'll make a point of taking a look at this. But as shown by the link Mark references, it sure looks like the pawl is available from the boot ... Any chance the pawl could be pulled back without cutting (??)

Has anyone confirmed that the solenoid indeed weakens with time? I don't understand why the magnetic field of a coil of wire would "weaken". And if the coil went "Open" the problem would not be intermittent. Is there a chance the grease on the pawl or the solenoid core drys up and therefore friction is too great? Or maybe the plastic wears slightly and if the Pawl was filed some, it could be disengaged more easily from the assembly(?)

Assuming those ideas have no merit, I like the idea that one poster mentioned of drilling a hole in the pawl and bringing the wire back into the center console. Maybe use a guitar string and put a small black **** on the end? Then when the pawl locks, you would just pull the **** to unlock the assembly.

Seems crazy that we have to come up with this stuff rather than GM.
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 04:51 PM
  #32  
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If the lock mechanism is currently working just press your finger down into the boot and you should be able to feel it disengage when you put your foot on the brake. Then you'll know right where it is if you want to cut the boot.
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
If the lock mechanism is currently working just press your finger down into the boot and you should be able to feel it disengage when you put your foot on the brake. Then you'll know right where it is if you want to cut the boot.
This won't hurt will it ?? !!!!.......
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 05:29 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by windyC6
This won't hurt will it ?? !!!!.......
Boot, not booty!
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
Boot, not booty!
UH....lets see....booty....finger....HUM....thats interesting !!!....
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
If the lock mechanism is currently working just press your finger down into the boot and you should be able to feel it disengage when you put your foot on the brake. Then you'll know right where it is if you want to cut the boot.
YES! I also read that here somewhere, and I saved the thread -- I'll have to look through my list.

But I think that poster said that if you know exactly where it is, that you can manipulate it through the boot to unlock it.

Is this actually possible? Having never taken mine apart, I'm not sure by looking at all the pictures if this is possible. If it is, then that's all the "fix" we need -- especially for lazy people like me who don't want to take the console apart and do the permanent fix.
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by EVRose
If the lock mechanism is currently working just press your finger down into the boot and you should be able to feel it disengage when you put your foot on the brake.
I just tried this on my 2008. The boot is too tight to allow my finger to press in far enough to actually feel the pawl. But it was comforting to hear the click of the solenoid each time I pressed the brake and I could feel a small movement on the gearshift shaft coinciding with the sound.

I now feel confident that if the car was stuck in Park while away from a set of tools, you could slice the boot and gain access to the location of the pawl. Although I think it wiser to make some sort of fix now with the console lifted rather than to slice your boot later.
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Old Aug 26, 2016 | 10:44 AM
  #38  
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Does anyone know if you can buy a new boot separately ? Or is this one of those things that you may have to buy a whole new interior just to get the boot ?.....
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Old Aug 26, 2016 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by windyC6
Does anyone know if you can buy a new boot separately ? Or is this one of those things that you may have to buy a whole new interior just to get the boot ?.....
Yes you can get them separately, at least from the aftermarket, not sure about GM.
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Old Aug 27, 2016 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by FrankPC
Yes. Without a new design, it's bound to. You'd think if engineers are able to design an automobile as beautiful and long lasting as the Corvette, that those same engineers would feel compelled to analyze the design shortcomings of the "Shifter Assembly" and improve it. To do so is necessary if not for its reliability, then at least for the safety aspect of the current design.

But, of course, to admit the design had to be changed, would be to admit there is an issue with it that could result in further consequences.

I plan to enter a "complaint" today at https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/ . There are already several there regarding this subject.
I filed a complaint with the NHTSA with regards to the transmission locking up in park. If enough will fill out the form maybe something will be done about it. I got locked up on the road the other day trying to help a stalled vehicle and just about got run over. It finally released and I was able to get off the road.
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