A6 shift cable replacement
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 21,631
Likes: 1,144
From: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
Well thank you very much BRUZE, I never would have guess that in a million years. I know you've mentioned before that I am challenged, and I can't help it....but I ain't quite that challenged...LOL.....do me a favor and whip me up a couple of those little brass B@#$@#DS while your at it as i'm sure all this talk will make mine fall apart..
Yesterday 02:37 PM
I was just reacting to what you wrote.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,959
Likes: 526
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 21,631
Likes: 1,144
From: Below the bottom of Berby Hollow, NYS
Well thank you very much BRUZE, I never would have guess that in a million years. I know you've mentioned before that I am challenged, and I can't help it....but I ain't quite that challenged...LOL.....do me a favor and whip me up a couple of those little brass B@#$@#DS while your at it as i'm sure all this talk will make mine fall apart..
If I totally misunderstood your OP, in red above, then please explain what your point was supposed to be.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,959
Likes: 526
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 212
Likes: 42
From: Mid MO
If anyone knows... is the A6 process the same as the A4?
My 2005 A4 shift cable broke parking at work. Pulled center console apart, all looks fine. Jacked up with co-workers scissor jack, looked fine at tranny. Just won't shift into park. Moved linkage manually at tranny. Started and shifted into drive. Can't go back into N-R-P so I'm guessing cable is broke in between somewhere.
My 2005 A4 shift cable broke parking at work. Pulled center console apart, all looks fine. Jacked up with co-workers scissor jack, looked fine at tranny. Just won't shift into park. Moved linkage manually at tranny. Started and shifted into drive. Can't go back into N-R-P so I'm guessing cable is broke in between somewhere.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 226
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
that front bracket in the tunnel is fun, it helps to look at the new cable and see the tabs that must be pressed inwards after the retaining clip is moved out of place.
Great write up, Thank You.
Great write up, Thank You.
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
From: Lakeland Florida
My car is in the shop as I am writing this. I think the plastic grommet went on my shift cable but I don't know for sure. I hope it is a simple fix as I only have 69K on my 2006 Corvette Convertible. Do you know if this is a common problem with these cars? Thanks, Bob
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,030
Likes: 2,587
From: Del Boca Vista FL
Had my cable replaced a couple months ago at 67,000 miles on my 06 convertible as a PRM. I had the cable fail on my C5 a couple years back.
Tech at the dealership said I called it right. The front bushing was decaying and he said maybe another six months were left. Better safe than stranded.
Heat from the console area is the major causation of the failure.
Last edited by BADBIRDCAGE; Feb 9, 2018 at 09:35 PM.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Kissimmee Florida
Well, It finally broke. After 130,000+ miles I had to get my car towed because of a part failure. I had just pulled into a dinner to get lunch, went to shift into Park and.... Nothing, The shifter just moved from D to P without moving the Transmission into park (Essentially it was stuck in D) So I just turned the engine of and called the tow truck!. When I got it home, a quick inspection proved the cable was indeed broken as the shift lever arm in the transmission worked fine and of course the cable link to the shift arm appeared to be in good condition (Meaning it was the end that attaches to the shifter itself that failed.. Of course !) Looking on line, I found a new GM Replacement cable for only $39.00 so that was good. Knowing it was going to be a PITA to change it, Here are the steps needed to change the cable.
1. Disassemble and remove the center console.
2. Unbolt and remove the shifter assembly (Only for 10 mm nuts)
3. Jack-up the car and secure with jack stands or (use a Lift)
4. Remove the exhaust center pipe (H pipe) section.
5. (Optional) put it really helps with access to the cable attachment point behind the shifter...Remove the torque tube cover, All the bolts have to come out and it seems like a thousand of then are in there!
6. Pry the cable connection of the transmission end shift arm (It just snaps on and off)
7. Remove the cable from the shifter, In my case it had already broken off at the shifter cable connection. It just snaps on and off just like the transmission arm end.
8. There is a cable retaining bracket that holds the shifter end of the cable about 6 inches behind the shifter attached to the tunnel. You have to push the cable up at the bracket to get it come out of the bracket (This is no fun as there is not a lot of room to reach up there.)
9. The transmission arm end of the cable is retained by another bracket bolted to the transmission, to remove it, there are two tabs you squeeze inward on the cable and it allows the cable to slide out of the bracket.
10. Once both ends are free of the retaining brackets, the cable can be removed from either end just by pulling it and guiding it out.
NOW for the fun part!!
11. Install the new cable into the tunnel and route it up where the old cable went. I recommend connecting the shifter end of the cable into the tunnel bracket first.
12. The cable can only be installed into the tunnel bracket in one position (Or orientation) , the cable must be guided up over the tunnel bracket, them pulled down into the bracket so that the cables retaining slot is fully engaged in the bracket. (Make sure it is in the right position or the shifter will not work properly !!!)
13, Install the other end of the cable into the transmission bracket, again make sure the two retaining tabs are fully engaged as you push/Pull the cable thru the bracket, (Again this end only goes in, in one position as there is a locating tab that must be correctly oriented in the bracket as well !! Were talking fun here !!
14. At this point Make double sure both ends of the cable are properly installed in there respective retaining brackets!! Repeat this step as often as need until you are 100% positive they are installed correctly!!
15. NOW reinstall the shifter and reconnect the wires connections that got to it.
16. Snap the shifter end of the cable onto the shifter pin, This can be done as you're installing the shifter in to the tunnel or from underneath if you removed the torque tube cover.
16. If all is going well, turn on the ignition, but don't start the engine (You don't have the exhaust hooked up yet). Push the brake pedal and you should hear the shift solenoid "Click" when you hear it, Move the shifter in to the Neutral position.
17. Before you hook up the Transmission arm end of the shift cable, Make sure the transmission is in the neutral position. To do this move the Transmission arm towards the rear of the car as far as it will go, it will stop clicking as it moves past the internal detents. At this point move the arm towards the front of the car two positions or "clicks"
18. You are now ready to attach the cable to the transmission shift arm. Again before you do it, verify both the shifter and the transmission are in the neutral positions.
19. The new cable comes with an adjustable link at the transmission end. To make sure the cable is properly adjusted, there is adjustment "tab" on the end that must removed after you have snapped the transmission end of the cable onto the transmission shift arm.
20, Before removing the adjusting tab, once again verify both the shifter and the trans are in neutral !!
21. At this point you can remove the tab from the cable end link. (It just pops off with a screwdriver) then once if the tab is off, the adjustment securing lock is then pushed flush with the cable end link, this locks the end link in position with the cable and ensures proper adjustment.
22. With the car still jacked up, and nothing touching the rear wheels, I put the shifter into P and started the car up (Still no Exhaust) then moved the shifter thru each position to verify proper transmission adjustment. If all works as it should, then you can reassemble everything you removed in the earlier steps.
23. If it does not work as it should. (See step 14 above) Recheck the cable brackets, one end or both may not be fully seated or correctly positioned. (Remember this is a PITA) but it is critical to proper shifting of the transmission!) When you are certain all is working correctly, reassemble the rest of the parts you removed!
This is not something to be attempted by the faint of heart or if you'r not very mechanically inclined then by all means have it done by a professional !
On the other hand it only cost me $60 for the tow truck
, $40.00 in parts 
and about 5 hrs of time to do the job in my garage.
1. Disassemble and remove the center console.
2. Unbolt and remove the shifter assembly (Only for 10 mm nuts)
3. Jack-up the car and secure with jack stands or (use a Lift)
4. Remove the exhaust center pipe (H pipe) section.
5. (Optional) put it really helps with access to the cable attachment point behind the shifter...Remove the torque tube cover, All the bolts have to come out and it seems like a thousand of then are in there!
6. Pry the cable connection of the transmission end shift arm (It just snaps on and off)
7. Remove the cable from the shifter, In my case it had already broken off at the shifter cable connection. It just snaps on and off just like the transmission arm end.
8. There is a cable retaining bracket that holds the shifter end of the cable about 6 inches behind the shifter attached to the tunnel. You have to push the cable up at the bracket to get it come out of the bracket (This is no fun as there is not a lot of room to reach up there.)
9. The transmission arm end of the cable is retained by another bracket bolted to the transmission, to remove it, there are two tabs you squeeze inward on the cable and it allows the cable to slide out of the bracket.
10. Once both ends are free of the retaining brackets, the cable can be removed from either end just by pulling it and guiding it out.
NOW for the fun part!!
11. Install the new cable into the tunnel and route it up where the old cable went. I recommend connecting the shifter end of the cable into the tunnel bracket first.
12. The cable can only be installed into the tunnel bracket in one position (Or orientation) , the cable must be guided up over the tunnel bracket, them pulled down into the bracket so that the cables retaining slot is fully engaged in the bracket. (Make sure it is in the right position or the shifter will not work properly !!!)
13, Install the other end of the cable into the transmission bracket, again make sure the two retaining tabs are fully engaged as you push/Pull the cable thru the bracket, (Again this end only goes in, in one position as there is a locating tab that must be correctly oriented in the bracket as well !! Were talking fun here !!
14. At this point Make double sure both ends of the cable are properly installed in there respective retaining brackets!! Repeat this step as often as need until you are 100% positive they are installed correctly!!
15. NOW reinstall the shifter and reconnect the wires connections that got to it.
16. Snap the shifter end of the cable onto the shifter pin, This can be done as you're installing the shifter in to the tunnel or from underneath if you removed the torque tube cover.
16. If all is going well, turn on the ignition, but don't start the engine (You don't have the exhaust hooked up yet). Push the brake pedal and you should hear the shift solenoid "Click" when you hear it, Move the shifter in to the Neutral position.
17. Before you hook up the Transmission arm end of the shift cable, Make sure the transmission is in the neutral position. To do this move the Transmission arm towards the rear of the car as far as it will go, it will stop clicking as it moves past the internal detents. At this point move the arm towards the front of the car two positions or "clicks"
18. You are now ready to attach the cable to the transmission shift arm. Again before you do it, verify both the shifter and the transmission are in the neutral positions.
19. The new cable comes with an adjustable link at the transmission end. To make sure the cable is properly adjusted, there is adjustment "tab" on the end that must removed after you have snapped the transmission end of the cable onto the transmission shift arm.
20, Before removing the adjusting tab, once again verify both the shifter and the trans are in neutral !!
21. At this point you can remove the tab from the cable end link. (It just pops off with a screwdriver) then once if the tab is off, the adjustment securing lock is then pushed flush with the cable end link, this locks the end link in position with the cable and ensures proper adjustment.
22. With the car still jacked up, and nothing touching the rear wheels, I put the shifter into P and started the car up (Still no Exhaust) then moved the shifter thru each position to verify proper transmission adjustment. If all works as it should, then you can reassemble everything you removed in the earlier steps.
23. If it does not work as it should. (See step 14 above) Recheck the cable brackets, one end or both may not be fully seated or correctly positioned. (Remember this is a PITA) but it is critical to proper shifting of the transmission!) When you are certain all is working correctly, reassemble the rest of the parts you removed!
This is not something to be attempted by the faint of heart or if you'r not very mechanically inclined then by all means have it done by a professional !
On the other hand it only cost me $60 for the tow truck
, $40.00 in parts and about 5 hrs of time to do the job in my garage. 
Pro
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 608
Likes: 42
From: bradenton Fl
Here is a video on how to replace the front bushing from the inside of car and the bushing kit available through them. It starts off with the shift indicator fix for a c5 but also covers the bushings. He said its the same for a c6.
Corvette Automatic Shifter Indicator Repair, C5 97-04 & Automatic Shifter Cable Repair, C6 97-13
Corvette Automatic Shifter Indicator Repair, C5 97-04 & Automatic Shifter Cable Repair, C6 97-13
Last edited by bacord; Aug 31, 2018 at 04:51 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 79
From: Houston, Tx
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
A silly question but if the cable fails when you shift to park and remains in gear can you open the door normally and will the car restart? I guess what am wondering is where the neutral safety switch is. On the shifter or in the trans?
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Starting
Thank you,
D Johnson
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 226
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
My A6 2007 rear grommet just went missing.
you can jack the car with it running and put it in drive to get you back to safety.
advance stocks the Dorman xxx55 part
pretty sure it’s not happening with exhaust in place.
ironically I replaced my 2005 cable 2 years ago
you can jack the car with it running and put it in drive to get you back to safety.
advance stocks the Dorman xxx55 part
pretty sure it’s not happening with exhaust in place.
ironically I replaced my 2005 cable 2 years ago
Last edited by SteveDoten; Mar 25, 2019 at 08:39 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,226
Likes: 7
From: Wailuku Hawaii
Just Changed My Shift Assembly and cable grommet..WHEW!
Just finished changing out my shifter assembly this morning, it wasn't as easy as I expected it to be, also I was not aware that our shift cable moves in the reverse order then what I expected. The second time was a charm, all good. Replacing the shift grommet was a chore. I purchased the Dorman GM part which had 2 grommets, I wrestled with the white one and just could not get it to seat, I switched to the clear and Bam! got it in the first attempt. The original grommet was seated and looked to be in good condition, I switched it out since I was in there, it did break and chip out very easily proving it was brittle, thank you to the many members and posts recommending replacement.
After completing the new shift assembly install, the car started and ran through all the gears smoothly, off for a Sunday morning cruise. Once home I proceeded to checkout the old shift assembly that I removed. I could not find why the shift lever would not move freely. When I hit down on the shift **** and pulled back to get the shifter out of park 2 weeks ago, I really did a number on it. Luckily I was able to get the car into my parking stall, and into Park. Lesson learned, these cars have a lot of plastic parts, and electrical circuits and sensors, banging on them is not a good idea. Would anyone here be able to help me seat the shift boot to the bottom of the shift ****? Currently there is a small gap between both. I tried turning the square plastic piece attached to the boot left, then right, with no luck. Do not want to force anything, Thanks again to all who have contributed advice and helpful links, Be safe All 
After completing the new shift assembly install, the car started and ran through all the gears smoothly, off for a Sunday morning cruise. Once home I proceeded to checkout the old shift assembly that I removed. I could not find why the shift lever would not move freely. When I hit down on the shift **** and pulled back to get the shifter out of park 2 weeks ago, I really did a number on it. Luckily I was able to get the car into my parking stall, and into Park. Lesson learned, these cars have a lot of plastic parts, and electrical circuits and sensors, banging on them is not a good idea. Would anyone here be able to help me seat the shift boot to the bottom of the shift ****? Currently there is a small gap between both. I tried turning the square plastic piece attached to the boot left, then right, with no luck. Do not want to force anything, Thanks again to all who have contributed advice and helpful links, Be safe All
