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Redline
Oil and tranny temps are the biggest concern, coolant temperature plays no factor in it.
I keep mine below 4K when its cold, but to me its more about not flooring the car and letting her hang out until she has some heat in her.
Redline
Oil and tranny temps are the biggest concern, coolant temperature plays no factor in it.
I keep mine below 4K when its cold, but to me its more about not flooring the car and letting her hang out until she has some heat in her.
I've nailed it right out of the parking lot after work a few times.
Same here ... also, on ramp to interstate is about a mile from my house, by the time I hit the interstate, I'm doing 80mph+ ... have always driven it 'hard', have 90k on the motor & it's still going strong
I have seen many posts regarding, don't drive hard until the oil, coolant is up to temp. what do you think driving hard is? anything over 3500 RPM's??
my car is a '13GS with dry sump.
The dry sump cars with unregulated air/oil coolers take FOREVER to warm up the oil. I can drive 20 minutes to work and the oil just hits 150F (in warmish spring weather). For comparison, my 5.7 Hemi which has an oil warmer/cooler in the radiator hits 150 in about 3 minutes on the same drive. I'm seriously considering replacing the GS radiator with one that has the oil cooler in the radiator for faster warmup.
Oil doesn't protect more at 220 F than it does at 50F. That's why it's mulit grade stuff. GM emphasizes NOT TO USE any but the recommended oil weights and they will work fine. It's not like its metal to metal until the oil gets to X temp. If it were, we'd destroy our engines at 1k rpm. No need to get to 5k.
I keep a simple rule and that is not to go WOT until engine oil temps are at least 150* F, by then engine coolant is at normal temp and the manual trans oil is good.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; May 6, 2016 at 10:59 AM.
I keep a simple rule and that is not to go WOT until engine oil temps are at least 150* F, by then engine coolant is at normal temp and the manual trans oil is good.
The main reason I wait until the oil is up to temp is to allow the engine to "tighten up", as the engine comes up to temp, the engine tolerances become tighter, less blowby, tighter bearing tolerances, etc.
The main reason I wait until the oil is up to temp is to allow the engine to "tighten up", as the engine comes up to temp, the engine tolerances become tighter, less blowby, tighter bearing tolerances, etc.
Slowly bringing up the bearing tolerances minimizes wear. There is a greater difference in engine component temperatures when the engine is first start up. Going WOT will increase the chance of wear to those components when cold.
Last edited by Mike's LS3; May 6, 2016 at 11:38 AM.
The dry sump cars with unregulated air/oil coolers take FOREVER to warm up the oil. I can drive 20 minutes to work and the oil just hits 150F (in warmish spring weather). For comparison, my 5.7 Hemi which has an oil warmer/cooler in the radiator hits 150 in about 3 minutes on the same drive. I'm seriously considering replacing the GS radiator with one that has the oil cooler in the radiator for faster warmup.
Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to just start your car a few minutes earlier before you go drive?
I don't accelerate rapidly or go over 2000 RPM until the engine is fully warmed up. I figure by then the oil should be warm enough. Actually, I drive my car pretty tamely most of the time even when the engine is plenty warm enough. Most of the time.
The main reason I wait until the oil is up to temp is to allow the engine to "tighten up", as the engine comes up to temp, the engine tolerances become tighter, less blowby, tighter bearing tolerances, etc.
All things being equal, metal expands with heat, the tolerances change would be miniscule. The tolerances would actually be tighter at cooler temps, IF they were changing at all.
Redline
Oil and tranny temps are the biggest concern, coolant temperature plays no factor in it.
I keep mine below 4K when its cold, but to me its more about not flooring the car and letting her hang out until she has some heat in her.
If I start the car and pull out quickly, the DIC will say "check coolant level." Apparently it's an algorithm, and if the engine heats up too fast, it triggers the message.
I start the car and let it warm up for about 90 seconds, and drive slowly around the corner to the light at the intersection. By the time I hit the second intersection, the horses are awake.