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Old May 6, 2016 | 07:57 AM
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Default driving hard

I have seen many posts regarding, don't drive hard until the oil, coolant is up to temp. what do you think driving hard is? anything over 3500 RPM's??

my car is a '13GS with dry sump.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 08:18 AM
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Redline
Oil and tranny temps are the biggest concern, coolant temperature plays no factor in it.
I keep mine below 4K when its cold, but to me its more about not flooring the car and letting her hang out until she has some heat in her.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 08:21 AM
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I keep mine below 2k until the temp bar shows up on the hud.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1968swbbigblock
Redline
Oil and tranny temps are the biggest concern, coolant temperature plays no factor in it.
I keep mine below 4K when its cold, but to me its more about not flooring the car and letting her hang out until she has some heat in her.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:10 AM
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I've nailed it right out of the parking lot after work a few times.

Last edited by Don-Vette; May 6, 2016 at 09:10 AM.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Don-Vette
I've nailed it right out of the parking lot after work a few times.
Same here ... also, on ramp to interstate is about a mile from my house, by the time I hit the interstate, I'm doing 80mph+ ... have always driven it 'hard', have 90k on the motor & it's still going strong
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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:47 AM
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Wear's on engine bearings over working a cold engine.. I didn't say the engine is going to come apart or fail.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by g's13 GS
I have seen many posts regarding, don't drive hard until the oil, coolant is up to temp. what do you think driving hard is? anything over 3500 RPM's??

my car is a '13GS with dry sump.
The dry sump cars with unregulated air/oil coolers take FOREVER to warm up the oil. I can drive 20 minutes to work and the oil just hits 150F (in warmish spring weather). For comparison, my 5.7 Hemi which has an oil warmer/cooler in the radiator hits 150 in about 3 minutes on the same drive. I'm seriously considering replacing the GS radiator with one that has the oil cooler in the radiator for faster warmup.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 10:48 AM
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Oil doesn't protect more at 220 F than it does at 50F. That's why it's mulit grade stuff. GM emphasizes NOT TO USE any but the recommended oil weights and they will work fine. It's not like its metal to metal until the oil gets to X temp. If it were, we'd destroy our engines at 1k rpm. No need to get to 5k.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 10:58 AM
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I keep a simple rule and that is not to go WOT until engine oil temps are at least 150* F, by then engine coolant is at normal temp and the manual trans oil is good.

Last edited by Mike's LS3; May 6, 2016 at 10:59 AM.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike's LS3
I keep a simple rule and that is not to go WOT until engine oil temps are at least 150* F, by then engine coolant is at normal temp and the manual trans oil is good.
The main reason I wait until the oil is up to temp is to allow the engine to "tighten up", as the engine comes up to temp, the engine tolerances become tighter, less blowby, tighter bearing tolerances, etc.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 11:21 AM
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There is a reason race cars don't start racing on a cold engine.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeCsix
The main reason I wait until the oil is up to temp is to allow the engine to "tighten up", as the engine comes up to temp, the engine tolerances become tighter, less blowby, tighter bearing tolerances, etc.
Slowly bringing up the bearing tolerances minimizes wear. There is a greater difference in engine component temperatures when the engine is first start up. Going WOT will increase the chance of wear to those components when cold.

Last edited by Mike's LS3; May 6, 2016 at 11:38 AM.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_gallup
The dry sump cars with unregulated air/oil coolers take FOREVER to warm up the oil. I can drive 20 minutes to work and the oil just hits 150F (in warmish spring weather). For comparison, my 5.7 Hemi which has an oil warmer/cooler in the radiator hits 150 in about 3 minutes on the same drive. I'm seriously considering replacing the GS radiator with one that has the oil cooler in the radiator for faster warmup.
Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to just start your car a few minutes earlier before you go drive?
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Old May 6, 2016 | 01:20 PM
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Burnout of the garage into the street and then on my merry way.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 01:41 PM
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I don't accelerate rapidly or go over 2000 RPM until the engine is fully warmed up. I figure by then the oil should be warm enough. Actually, I drive my car pretty tamely most of the time even when the engine is plenty warm enough. Most of the time.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeCsix
The main reason I wait until the oil is up to temp is to allow the engine to "tighten up", as the engine comes up to temp, the engine tolerances become tighter, less blowby, tighter bearing tolerances, etc.
All things being equal, metal expands with heat, the tolerances change would be miniscule. The tolerances would actually be tighter at cooler temps, IF they were changing at all.

Mark
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Old May 6, 2016 | 10:04 PM
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LPE told me years ago when I got my car back to go easy until oil hit 160.
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Old May 6, 2016 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by EVILFACE
Burnout of the garage into the street and then on my merry way.
LMAO
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Old May 6, 2016 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 1968swbbigblock
Redline
Oil and tranny temps are the biggest concern, coolant temperature plays no factor in it.
I keep mine below 4K when its cold, but to me its more about not flooring the car and letting her hang out until she has some heat in her.
If I start the car and pull out quickly, the DIC will say "check coolant level." Apparently it's an algorithm, and if the engine heats up too fast, it triggers the message.

I start the car and let it warm up for about 90 seconds, and drive slowly around the corner to the light at the intersection. By the time I hit the second intersection, the horses are awake.
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