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Need headlight install help

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Old May 29, 2016 | 06:36 PM
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Default Need headlight install help

I had both headlight assemblies on my 2013 GS replaced at the dealer about a month ago and have noticed the drivers side was tucked up into the top of the fender and a gap at the bottom bumper cover. when I removed the inner fender panels for access to the 3 studs I noticed one was not tight at all. I loosened all three nuts and the light can move around but I cannot seem to get it even all the way around so that the gasket looks right and the bottom of the light is not sticking out. is there some sort of adjustment to the studs that can be done or should I loosen the fender and see if I can resolve it. I would go back to the dealer but i was trying this on my own as they are closed for Memorial day weekend. When something bugs me i have to do something cant stand waiting to go back.
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Old May 29, 2016 | 07:20 PM
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There is no adjustment to the 3 studs. They tighten to hold the headlight assembly in place.
One thing to check however is that the assembly is not sitting on the wiring harness. Sometimes the harness will not clear the assembly on the side, and impede the assembly to sit flush in the mounting area.
The other thing is at the top of the headlight, there is a clear stud that fits on the inside portion at the top of the fender. If that stud is not sitting in place, then the assembly it will not settle in the correct position in the fender/bumper.

Hope that helps a bit.
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Old May 29, 2016 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by LV2TOUR
There is no adjustment to the 3 studs. They tighten to hold the headlight assembly in place.
One thing to check however is that the assembly is not sitting on the wiring harness. Sometimes the harness will not clear the assembly on the side, and impede the assembly to sit flush in the mounting area.
The other thing is at the top of the headlight, there is a clear stud that fits on the inside portion at the top of the fender. If that stud is not sitting in place, then the assembly it will not settle in the correct position in the fender/bumper.

Hope that helps a bit.
all great points and agreed, with the exception of the studs.

the studs have torx heads to screw them in or out for some adjustment. loosen the nut, adjust as desired, tighten the nut.
the flat built-in washer of the bolt stays on top of the structure, held tight eventually by the tightened nut below.
by screwing the bolt in or out you lift or lower the light assy up or down at that particular corner.

how much adjustment one can get out of them I don't know but it's definitely worth an attempt to optimize it.
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Old May 30, 2016 | 12:01 AM
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Those studs may also have additional washers on them to vary how they affect the position of the light. I found this out the hard way when installing them. I assumed they were all the same and just screwed them back into the light housing. It wasn't until I had positioning problems like you that I removed both lights and noticed four of the six studs had additional washers on them.

If you didn't take them off, but someone else did, then you may never know the proper combination with regards to position. Then it becomes a crap shoot.
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Old May 30, 2016 | 01:39 AM
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My wife and I had another go at it tonight and tried adjusting the stud length on one about 3/4 of a turn and it put the light where it needs to be. She got me all the right tools first time and even checked the spacing on the light while I was under the car. I am so lucky I have a great wife and a '13 grand sport. Thanks again for all the responses as I have said before when I had my C5 this community is the best.
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Old May 30, 2016 | 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by airmed2
Those studs may also have additional washers on them to vary how they affect the position of the light. I found this out the hard way when installing them. I assumed they were all the same and just screwed them back into the light housing. It wasn't until I had positioning problems like you that I removed both lights and noticed four of the six studs had additional washers on them.

If you didn't take them off, but someone else did, then you may never know the proper combination with regards to position. Then it becomes a crap shoot.
These were dealer installed new replacements you would think they would know what was adjustable but I guess not. probably explains why they left that one stud nut loose as tightening it made it worse. I now have it correct and no waiting at the service lounge for hours on end.
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Old May 30, 2016 | 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ontime
These were dealer installed new replacements you would think they would know what was adjustable but I guess not. probably explains why they left that one stud nut loose as tightening it made it worse. I now have it correct and no waiting at the service lounge for hours on end.
Wow, I admire y'all - really nice work! I'm almost 60 now and have owned many cars, trucks and motorcycles. I could write a (large) book on similar experiences I've had with stealerships and mechanics over the years. It's been the old 80/20 rule: 80% of the time they don't get it right on the first try. So now I just go in hoping for the 20, but mentally prepared for the 80.
Highest regards, Monte
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Old May 30, 2016 | 07:21 AM
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Did they replace them because of the crazing inside?
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Old May 30, 2016 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 L46 4 Speed
Did they replace them because of the crazing inside?
no mine had cloudiness and a distortion on the inside that looked like heat had distorted the lenses. The dealer asked me to take it home and try polishing it but don't be fussy then bring it back. I did and the results were no different. I took it back and they wrote a second ticket and called a rep for approval. I waited a week to see what would be said and they called me to set the appointment to replace as the service manager got them approved. I am still under factory warranty until end of dec.
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