Park position switch replacement
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Park position switch replacement
Has anyone gone through the trouble of replacing just the switch itself that closes when you put an auto in park? Car is an 05 and the lever seems to not want to stay on which then causes problems with the car not being able to shift out of park once started. I know the switch itself isn't available from GM but it's just a limit switch. It should be a simple job to replace it. Just thought I would check in case some else has done this.
I'm not wanting to bypass the switch or the park lever/paw.
Thanks
I'm not wanting to bypass the switch or the park lever/paw.
Thanks
Last edited by Monstar; Jun 8, 2016 at 01:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Those were my thoughts as well since I'm quite capable of changing a switch out so long as I can get my hands on one.
The lever is metal but it wants to keep popping off at the pivot so I can't really attach it any better than it already is.
Thanks!
The lever is metal but it wants to keep popping off at the pivot so I can't really attach it any better than it already is.
Thanks!
Last edited by Monstar; Jun 8, 2016 at 05:52 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2011
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
There's a limit switch behind the shift handle in that picture, Dano, that closes when the shifter is placed into park. That's what I want to fix. I don't want to disable the park lock even though that would be easier.
Thanks
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
Photos' would help to see what the problem is to start with.
Connectors can be bought from Mouser if one of your is broken, and as for even the solenoid, most of the time it can be repaired as well.
Hence it just a 12V electromagnetic coil, but does have a thermal fuse it it, with either the problem being a wire connecting that broke, or just the thermal fuse needing to be replaced instead.
Hence to check the solenoid, just put a multi meter to it two connector tab, and make sure that you have a resistance reading through them to start with.
As for the front switch, again Mouser has connectors if your is falling apart, or if the switch, not that had to pull it apart to clean the connectors, then put it back together again.
Connectors can be bought from Mouser if one of your is broken, and as for even the solenoid, most of the time it can be repaired as well.
Hence it just a 12V electromagnetic coil, but does have a thermal fuse it it, with either the problem being a wire connecting that broke, or just the thermal fuse needing to be replaced instead.
Hence to check the solenoid, just put a multi meter to it two connector tab, and make sure that you have a resistance reading through them to start with.
As for the front switch, again Mouser has connectors if your is falling apart, or if the switch, not that had to pull it apart to clean the connectors, then put it back together again.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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Its just a standard micro switch, so pulling one apart to clean it's contacts, then putting it back together is a snap.
http://siber-sonic.com/electronics/microswitchrep.html
Or you can just by a new micro switch from Mouser electronics to just place the switch instead.
Note, pull the brand and part number off the switch and cross reference at the mouser's web site for a replacement of the same one.
Also to point out, some of the times the switch is fine, and it just the arm that may need to be re-tweaked instead.
As for the solenoid,
If the pin is moving freely in the body and is not the problem and needs to be cleaned (just has the light spring pressure pushing it back forward, then a snap to first check the terminal for resistances across them, and if the unit has none, then bank that it thermal fuse went south. Hence solenoid in hand, you just need to cut the slice the wrapper off so you can get to down to the wires coming off the coil and thermal fuse in line (one coil wire soldered directly to the connector terminal, and other coil wire is soldered to a thermal fuse wire, and the other wire off the thermal fuse is soldered to the other terminal connector tab), and figure out which is the problem that needs to be corrected.
Last edited by Dano523; Jun 10, 2016 at 04:06 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 66
From: Orlando Florida
I tied the locking tab back years ago, but if all I have to do is clean the micro switch contacts to make it work properly, then that would be a better way to go. I will wait till someone else has done it with success before I take my center console out again. Subscribing to this thread. 
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 14,475
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From: Las Vegas NV
I tied the locking tab back years ago, but if all I have to do is clean the micro switch contacts to make it work properly, then that would be a better way to go. I will wait till someone else has done it with success before I take my center console out again. Subscribing to this thread.
Last edited by EVRose; Jun 10, 2016 at 11:29 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 66
From: Orlando Florida
We're talking about two different things here. When it's stuck in park the solenoid is not releasing and is at fault and has nothing to do with the microswitch. The microswitch tells the car the shifter IS in park and when that fails you get the warning "shift to park" on the DIC. That's the way I see it anyway but maybe I'm wrong.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 14,475
Likes: 785
From: Las Vegas NV
If that microswitch really is broken there should be a message on the DIC that says "Shift To Park".
Last edited by EVRose; Jun 10, 2016 at 01:13 PM.