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I have a 2012 Grand Sport with about 29,000 miles on it.
About 2 years ago I was driving home from a friends and after shifting into 2nd gear the clutch pedal stuck to the floor.
I managed to get to about 3/4 of a mile from my house but was going to have to stop at an intersection so I turned in to a side street and had to shut the car down as I has no clutch.
I had Triple A tow the car to the dealer who replaced the clutch master cylinder under warrently.
I have had no problems until last week when driving in traffic the pedal did not fully return to the top position. I pulled the pedal up with my foot and continued on my way. The following morning I exchanged the fluid in the resevoir and it seemed to work fine for the next 2 or three drives until today.
The pedal stuck at about 3/4 return several times but still seemed to function OK. When I got home I again exchanged the fluid, but when I go back into the car I noticed the pedal was on the floor.
Did you do the full ranger method or did you take out what was in the bowl once?
Maybe I need to read up on the ranger method again but last week I drained it, refilled it pumped it and drove it a bit and then drained it and refilled it again.
This time I just drained it and re-filled it once.
I never believed in doing the Ranger Method of changing the brake/clutch fluid. I have 130K miles on my C6 and no problems with my brake or clutch system. It is documented that it is BEST to not expose the brake/clutch fluid to open air since the brake/clutch fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture. So I VERY RARELY if at all, ever open my master cylinder cap.
I think your problem is the CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER. Which is alaso covered under a company recall if you have this probem by GM.
I never believed in doing the Ranger Method of changing the brake fluid. I have 130K miles on my C6 and no problems with my brake system. It is documented that it is BEST to not expose the brake fluid to open air since the brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture. So I VERY RARELY if at all, ever open my master cylinder cap.
I think your problem is the BRAKE SLAVE CYLINDER. Which is alaso covered under a company recall if you have this probem by GM.
I never believed in doing the Ranger Method of changing the brake fluid. I have 130K miles on my C6 and no problems with my brake system. It is documented that it is BEST to not expose the brake fluid to open air since the brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture. So I VERY RARELY if at all, ever open my master cylinder cap.
I think your problem is the BRAKE SLAVE CYLINDER. Which is alaso covered under a company recall if you have this probem by GM.
I believe you are referring to a service bulletin for the clutch master cylinder that extends the warranty upon failure. It is not a recall.
I may be wrong, but I don't think there was a slave cylinder recall. I don't know what a brake slave cylinder is.
Call a dealer, have them look up Special Service Coverage #14717 - search this forum and there are quite a few posts regarding this coverage. The clutch master is flawed, and in good old GM tradition, it appears yours failed once and was replaced with the same flawed part and failed again. The good news is you are covered for ten years under the special coverage, and the part has supposedly been redesigned to prevent the same failure again. Ì'd call the dealer and ask them to cover the cost of the flatbed if its not drivable.
In September 2015, GM issued a warranty extension notice related to the symptoms you describe. "If the clutch system fails, the clutch pedal may not return if depressed." The extended warranty period is 10 years from in service date or 120,000 miles. Repairs will be performed by a Chevrolet dealer; if you have paid to have the repair done, there is a reimbursement procedure available under this extended warranty. Check with your local dealer for copies of the notice & reimbursement form.
Sorry I did not follow up sooner, I have been very busy.
When I went out to the car the following day, the pedal had returned to the upmost position.
It was a Sunday afternoon but I drove the car to the dealer. It took 3 days but the dealer did repair the car under "extended" warranty at no charge to me.
He said that GM recognized an issue with the DOT 4 brake fluid absorbing moisture and had extended the warranty for this reason.
The recommend service for bleeding the slave, a $200 or so procedure, is every 24 months. My first clutch MC was replaced at roughly 2 years and 17,000 miles and the second one was replaced at 4.2 years and 28,900 miles.
Someone else on here suggested that when using the Ranger Method, they use a new container of fluid and discard any unused fluid.
I had done the Ranger Method a number of times but I did not always use a new container of fluid. I do not know if this made a difference or not, but it makes sense to me.
I never believed in doing the Ranger Method of changing the brake/clutch fluid. I have 130K miles on my C6 and no problems with my brake or clutch system.
Then you've been very lucky. The clutch in my C5 stuck to the floor while I was going 70+ on the highway, and this was at 68k miles. I immediately started doing the Ranger method on a regular basis and the clutch never stuck again.
Originally Posted by joliett
It is documented that it is BEST to not expose the brake/clutch fluid to open air
Then how do you get it from the bottle to the master cylinder? Exposure is for an extremely short period of time; short enough that it's not going to make a difference one way or the other.
Originally Posted by joliett
since the brake/clutch fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture. So I VERY RARELY if at all, ever open my master cylinder cap.
I think pretty much everyone here can say the same. It's not like we're driving with the cap off the master cylinder.
Originally Posted by joliett
I think your problem is the CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER. Which is alaso covered under a company recall if you have this probem by GM.
No, it's the master cylinder, thus the reason why there is a service bulletin that offers free replacement at the dealer.
Don't mean to be piling on, but brake fluid is not hydroscopic, it is hygroscopic.
Brake fluid does not have to be exposed to open air to absorb moisture. In high dew point regions, the airgap above the fluid level will, over time, perspire and contaminate the fluid, even if the top is never removed. That is the reason for the warning to discard unused fluid in the can and always use fresh BC that fluid can become contaminated with moisture sitting on your shelf. On top of that, the cap to the cylinder is vented.
Last edited by BlindSpot; Jul 15, 2016 at 07:39 AM.