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Brake bleeding sequence

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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 06:01 PM
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Default Brake bleeding sequence

Is there a Brake bleeding sequence for a 2011 base model. Some idiot sprayed regular paint on the calipers before I bought this car. I had some brake noise so I hit it with some cleaner and the paint ran off so I had to remove the rest calipers and repaint them. Ready to bleed the brakes but not sure if there's a specific sequence as in right rear left or you're right front left front or some other pattern that I need to follow.

Thanks and advance for any information and help
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 06:13 PM
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IIRC, the Corvette (and most cars?) built after about 2000 have the two reservoir brake system split the car diagonally. So, the proper sequence would be RR/LF and then LR/RF.
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Martijam1
Is there a Brake bleeding sequence for a 2011 base model. Some idiot sprayed regular paint on the calipers before I bought this car. I had some brake noise so I hit it with some cleaner and the paint ran off so I had to remove the rest calipers and repaint them. Ready to bleed the brakes but not sure if there's a specific sequence as in right rear left or you're right front left front or some other pattern that I need to follow.

Thanks and advance for any information and help
I haven't done a Corvette but have done many others. Always start at the wheel cylinder that's farthest away from the master, and so on until you get to the closest wheel. Make sure to keep the reservoirs full. Voila.

Last edited by TerryL; Jul 9, 2016 at 06:14 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 02:38 AM
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Step one, cycle the ABS pump to get air out of the pump first.

The once you have the air out of the abs pump, you bleed Rear passenger first, then rear driver, next passenger front, and then drivers front.

And again, once you are start to bleed with the system emptied, you have to cycle the ABS pump to get the air out of first!!!!

As for cycling the ABS pump, you can do it with a jumper using 12volt from the battery, but faster to do so with a Tech II unit instead.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Step one, cycle the ABS pump to get air out of the pump first.

The once you have the air out of the abs pump, you bleed Rear passenger first, then rear driver, next passenger front, and then drivers front.

And again, once you are start to bleed with the system emptied, you have to cycle the ABS pump to get the air out of first!!!!

As for cycling the ABS pump, you can do it with a jumper using 12volt from the battery, but faster to do so with a Tech II unit instead.
Dano - You are "The Man". A wealth of knowledge and the best library of pics I've ever seen.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ruxvette
IIRC, the Corvette (and most cars?) built after about 2000 have the two reservoir brake system split the car diagonally. So, the proper sequence would be RR/LF and then LR/RF.
This is correct according to the shop manual for manual brake bleeding. No more of that "start farthest from the master cylinder" stuff.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 11:00 AM
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On a split diagonal design, you're still doing the same thing - back to front (farther to nearer) only on two separate lines.

No difference if you start both farther lines then finish with both closer, or do each line separately. Both processes get you to the same place. Both are correct.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 11:07 AM
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I have always done the longest runs first. Rr, Lr, Rf, lf. It has always worked for me .
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 11:49 AM
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I have successfully gravity bled mine twice, doing two calipers at a time. Open RR and LF and bleed. Then do LR and RF. Two drain pans...no tubing on bleeders.


Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Warning: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Warning in the Preface section.

Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Caution in the Preface section.

1]Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.

2]With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.

3]If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary, add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.

If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.

3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.

3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.

3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.

3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.

3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.

3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.

3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.

3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.

4]Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling.

5]Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.

6]Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.

7]Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

8]Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.

9]Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.

10]Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.

11]Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.

12]With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.

13]Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.

14]With the left front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.

15]Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.

16]With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.

17]Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.

18]After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.

19]Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.

20]Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.

Note: If it is determined that air was induced into the system upstream of the ABS modulator prior to servicing, the Antilock Brake System Automated Bleed Procedure must be performed.

21]If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.

21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.

22]Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Note: DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.

23]If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 12:25 PM
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Think it through. Not rocket science here. Diagram it out on paper if it helps. Instructions above accomplish the very same thing if you do RR, LR, RF, LF. You have two distinctively separate circuits. Whether you start finish each, one at a time, or start both then finish both you end up exactly the same place.
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 01:28 PM
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Looks like the diagonal bleeding sequence is important on FWD vehicles:

http://www.remaninc.com/pdfs/fwdunevenpadwear.pdf

http://www.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2010-0004.pdf
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 01:56 PM
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Thanks for all the replys. There is a lot of info here. The pump system noted to do the proper sequence that is why I asked. I believe I got it all bled out. Again thanks for the replys. Next week I will repaint the front calipers, yippee!
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