Frame rust
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Crofton MD
We drove our C5 through five Chicago winters on the GY winter (not A/S) runflats, no longer available. When we sold it, the frame looked better than OP and the body/paint looked like any other C5 with the same miles and years. So OP's pictures are not encouraging.
On our C6, we park it when the salt first hits the roads and don't drive it until the spring rains melt the salt away. Except, once each winter we cover the shipping slots with duct tape and drive to Florida, remove the tape and wash underneath thoroughly when we get there. I did forget to do the tape job one year.
Recently I bought a tiny video camera and was able to look inside the frame through the shipping slots, found only one small spot of rust. I think rust inside the frame is much harder to deal with, so if OP wants to keep his car for a long time, I'd recommend the interior camera inspection. He might be ok, or not. Here's the link to my other thread, post #4 has the best info.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...yesterday.html
On our C6, we park it when the salt first hits the roads and don't drive it until the spring rains melt the salt away. Except, once each winter we cover the shipping slots with duct tape and drive to Florida, remove the tape and wash underneath thoroughly when we get there. I did forget to do the tape job one year.
Recently I bought a tiny video camera and was able to look inside the frame through the shipping slots, found only one small spot of rust. I think rust inside the frame is much harder to deal with, so if OP wants to keep his car for a long time, I'd recommend the interior camera inspection. He might be ok, or not. Here's the link to my other thread, post #4 has the best info.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...yesterday.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Crofton MD
That's just going to hide it, not fix it.
It's just surface rust now. Get it off and then protect the area to prevent future rust.
Get under the car with a bright flashlight and inspect every nook and cranny for more rust.
Eastwood has good stuff. I'd start there.
My experience with Por15 was not good. Maybe I did something wrong, but I've had rust come back on parts I used Por-15 on. (this was on a Jeep, so it saw much more abuse than a Corvette)
It's just surface rust now. Get it off and then protect the area to prevent future rust.
Get under the car with a bright flashlight and inspect every nook and cranny for more rust.
Eastwood has good stuff. I'd start there.
My experience with Por15 was not good. Maybe I did something wrong, but I've had rust come back on parts I used Por-15 on. (this was on a Jeep, so it saw much more abuse than a Corvette)
Also- they sell 2 types of "rust encapsulators"- I think I'm to go with the rubberized in an undercoating formula- my question is there any reason I shouldn't use the undercoating instead of the regular kind for everything I'm painting that's on the frame?
Racer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 431
Likes: 54
From: Rivesville West Virginia
A lot of us have had the "Fever". I had the fever and missed wear on inside of front tires.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 622
Likes: 38
From: Down South
Like another said Al.. wire brush and paint and enjoy your car.. I know your disapointed but don't let it ruin your experience... There are many worse than yours and the owners don't even know about it.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 26,225
Likes: 4,349
From: Chirper Island
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,003
Likes: 2,704
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
Correct. I was told transporters insert T-hooks in them to anchor the cars for shipping.
Since the slots can allow water to drain out as well as in, I only tape mine for a couple of days. But I have not yet had any water drain out of them when removing the tape.
Since the slots can allow water to drain out as well as in, I only tape mine for a couple of days. But I have not yet had any water drain out of them when removing the tape.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 30,427
Likes: 1,609
From: Outside the Quick Stop N.J.
To the OP - I would not loose any sleep over this, Chevy subjects the Vette to the same salt bath corrosion tests as the rest of it's cars. Does the rust detract form the looks underhood ? Yes, but you can fix that. It is not a rotted mess by any means, just get under the car and flush out the framerails and underside. Then drive the snot out of it and enjoy the car.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 130
Regular paint will chip and scratch visibly. If rust forms underneath it, it will bubble, lift up and flake off. You can see that and repair it before it gets much worse.
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 26,225
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From: Chirper Island
My first response was somewhat tongue in cheek.
My underside looks just fine after 225,000. Nothing to worry about, and I drive it in all sorts of weather and over all sort of road surfaces. It's been driven in the rain
, on a beach 
, over countless miles of gravel/dirt 
, all winter in the salt and road treatment, in the occasional snow storm. It's even been driven over the Rockies in a blizzard 
(I don't recommend this, BTW).
I don't have any way to lift it up to spray underneath, which is the answer to keeping the bottom corrosion-free, but I do have a really good touchless wash (OH,NO, blasphemy) locally, with a very powerful undercarriage wash, and that has done the trick for me. I use it every couple of weeks during the period when the roads are being treated, and a couple of times every spring in the weeks after the last road treatment (at least two rains).
I also us this when it gets to hot to really spend the time washing. It takes all of 5 minutes to wipe it dry, including under the hood, trunk lid and inside the doors.
My underside looks just fine after 225,000. Nothing to worry about, and I drive it in all sorts of weather and over all sort of road surfaces. It's been driven in the rain
, on a beach , over countless miles of gravel/dirt , all winter in the salt and road treatment, in the occasional snow storm. It's even been driven over the Rockies in a blizzard (I don't recommend this, BTW).I don't have any way to lift it up to spray underneath, which is the answer to keeping the bottom corrosion-free, but I do have a really good touchless wash (OH,NO, blasphemy) locally, with a very powerful undercarriage wash, and that has done the trick for me. I use it every couple of weeks during the period when the roads are being treated, and a couple of times every spring in the weeks after the last road treatment (at least two rains).
I also us this when it gets to hot to really spend the time washing. It takes all of 5 minutes to wipe it dry, including under the hood, trunk lid and inside the doors.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Crofton MD
My first response was somewhat tongue in cheek.
My underside looks just fine after 225,000. Nothing to worry about, and I drive it in all sorts of weather and over all sort of road surfaces. It's been driven in the rain, on a beach , over countless miles of gravel/dirt , all winter in the salt and road treatment, in the occasional snow storm. It's even been driven over the Rockies in a blizzard (I don't recommend this, BTW).
I don't have any way to lift it up to spray underneath, which is the answer to keeping the bottom corrosion-free, but I do have a really good touchless wash (OH,NO, blasphemy) locally, with a very powerful undercarriage wash, and that has done the trick for me. I use it every couple of weeks during the period when the roads are being treated, and a couple of times every spring in the weeks after the last road treatment (at least two rains).
I also us this when it gets to hot to really spend the time washing. It takes all of 5 minutes to wipe it dry, including under the hood, trunk lid and inside the doors.
My underside looks just fine after 225,000. Nothing to worry about, and I drive it in all sorts of weather and over all sort of road surfaces. It's been driven in the rain
, on a beach , over countless miles of gravel/dirt , all winter in the salt and road treatment, in the occasional snow storm. It's even been driven over the Rockies in a blizzard (I don't recommend this, BTW).I don't have any way to lift it up to spray underneath, which is the answer to keeping the bottom corrosion-free, but I do have a really good touchless wash (OH,NO, blasphemy) locally, with a very powerful undercarriage wash, and that has done the trick for me. I use it every couple of weeks during the period when the roads are being treated, and a couple of times every spring in the weeks after the last road treatment (at least two rains).
I also us this when it gets to hot to really spend the time washing. It takes all of 5 minutes to wipe it dry, including under the hood, trunk lid and inside the doors.
After being a bit unnerved today a drive cured my ales and put a smile on my face
took my co workers for rides as well- and some friends- everyone loves the car- even my anti vette pal will lol
Also ran into an old friend that happened to buy a new z06, which a new neighbor has as well... so weird!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 25,003
Likes: 2,704
From: Far NW 'burbs of Chicago
St. Jude Donor '13
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,749
Likes: 50
From: Westmont Il.
That rusty rectangular depression in your photo where the shock tower is welded to the frame is the worst debris, including rock salt, catcher.
I clean it regular and am thinking of covering, sealing it somehow.
Clean it, flush it, wire brush it, and put some satin black Rustoleum on it.
Rust neutralizer optional. Just make sure all the salt residue is gone.
Prep is the key.
Most of the hardware chains have that neutralizer stuff. What's nice about it, it goes on easy and blends in nicely with the frame paint.
I used a lot of it on my '91 Caprice (with a top coat) a few years ago. It seems to work.
At least it doesn't seal moisture in and ensure future problems.
I clean it regular and am thinking of covering, sealing it somehow.
Clean it, flush it, wire brush it, and put some satin black Rustoleum on it.
Rust neutralizer optional. Just make sure all the salt residue is gone.
Prep is the key.
Most of the hardware chains have that neutralizer stuff. What's nice about it, it goes on easy and blends in nicely with the frame paint.
I used a lot of it on my '91 Caprice (with a top coat) a few years ago. It seems to work.
At least it doesn't seal moisture in and ensure future problems.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
From: Crofton MD
That rusty rectangular depression in your photo where the shock tower is welded to the frame is the worst debris, including rock salt, catcher.
I clean it regular and am thinking of covering, sealing it somehow.
Clean it, flush it, wire brush it, and put some satin black Rustoleum on it.
Rust neutralizer optional. Just make sure all the salt residue is gone.
Prep is the key.
Most of the hardware chains have that neutralizer stuff. What's nice about it, it goes on easy and blends in nicely with the frame paint.
I used a lot of it on my '91 Caprice (with a top coat) a few years ago. It seems to work.
At least it doesn't seal moisture in and ensure future problems.
I clean it regular and am thinking of covering, sealing it somehow.
Clean it, flush it, wire brush it, and put some satin black Rustoleum on it.
Rust neutralizer optional. Just make sure all the salt residue is gone.
Prep is the key.
Most of the hardware chains have that neutralizer stuff. What's nice about it, it goes on easy and blends in nicely with the frame paint.
I used a lot of it on my '91 Caprice (with a top coat) a few years ago. It seems to work.
At least it doesn't seal moisture in and ensure future problems.
