Interesting - I think you're arguing both sides of the coin. You state GM is behind the times recommending older fluids in modern Corvettes, and that Amsoil is ahead of the times, yet "Amsoil Withstood the test of time"?? I don't use Amsoil, but how old are their formulas if they're time tested??

Remember, the C6 and its components were designed in the early 2000s, and introduced in 2005. Synthetic fluids were hardly new technology in 2005, and GM specs synthetic engine oil, so it's not like the engineers of the drivetrain hadn't discovered synthetic gear oil. It had to be a specific technical reason they chose NOT to spec a synthetic and I don't accept the argument they didn't know. As an example, Here is a cut/paste from Tremec's site on FAQs:

Q: Why not use a synthetic fluid? A: Some brands of synthetic fluid contain powerful detergents and additives that can prove harmful to your transmission's synchronizers. While many synthetic fluids perform very well, in most cases, we do not recommend their use. Furthermore, they may void your warranty. For peace of mind, remember that TREMEC conducts all of its OEM validation testing using conventional fluids without issue.


I want to be clear, this is not an attempt to discredit Amsoil. I have no idea what formula Amsoil the OP was sold to replace the factory trans fill, and he can put whatever he wants in his car, even peanut butter and jelly if he's convinced it is better for the trans than GM's spec. I am more interested in how owners make their choices. Amsoil = Awesome is an emotional statement. I can accept it as such, but so far, I am not getting the sound technical reason for the change.

 

GM buys stuff based on $$$ first, performance second. Its all about contracts with suppliers. Believing anything that GM does is "best for the car" is silly. Its best for their wallet first. They are going to buy the cheapest stuff in bulk that works, then use that on as many cars as they can. Sadly that is how automotive engineering works.

As for why I switched to Amsoil. Several high end race teams, shops use it in their vettes. Richie Rich at Abel suggest it for any car that sees performance use and he is the service manager at one of the top GM dealers in the country for vettes. He races his own z06, and uses amsoil. Anyone making big power isn't using stock fluid. For a stock car, factory is more than enough, and fine, but for extreme uses, and adding 10-200% more power, you may need a fluid that has better protection properties.

 

Every business does that. What business goes out of their way to minimize profits?

The difference is - GM is on the hook for failures, which is NOT good for their wallet. If they choose components with high failure rates or low MTBF, then they're going to spend a lot of money on warranty claims....and, hopefully, we're not going into the "planned obsolescence" conspiracy theories now.

Does "Richy Rich's" performance cars even come close to resembling the components in a factory stock Corvette? How many times a year does RR rebuild his transmission/diff/engine, etc.? This is the argument I see all the time - Someone else uses it so I do too. That is not a sound technical decision. I didn't presume the OP was in a maintenance routine that could be compared to a full race car.

I don't want to raise tension here and we're dropping into the abyss, so I am going to drop it at this point. I think I have the answer I was seeking and I wasn't looking to change minds.

 

Changed my ZR1 tranny to Amsoil Torque Drive fluid a year ago. 4 qts is what you need for any of the Tremec tranny drain and refill. Torque Drive was recommended over the standard Amsoil ATF product. Both are DEXRON III fluids (not DEXRON VI which you don't want to use in a Tremec manual).

 

Actually it was a year ago I saw it where Amsoil and Pennzoil were the top leading oils over Mobil1. I believe someone here on the forum posted the test results which inspired me to use the top 2 products. Amsoil in my vette and Pennzoil in my Honda and Escape. When I first bought my brand new vette in 01/13 I started using Mobil1 up until I saw the report. Maybe a little more than a year ago.

 

all good stuff and opinions.. I also find that what ever GM / Corvette Engineers recommend -- some people change to different just because they think it is better. just like personalizing his or her C6 - if the Corvette came with Product B he or she would change to Product A - or in the Bazarro World - If the Corvette came with Product A he or she would change it to Product B - just to be different. For example if the C6 came with Amsoil some would change to Mobil 1 -- Cuz it is better. :wooh oo:

but back to oils


http://rankerreview.com/top-10-best-quality-motor-oil/

https://www.pepboys.com/accessories/...filters/brands

 

That top 10 didn't include Pennzoil ultra which is what I use. When I get the time I'll research to see if I can find the test report I saw that changed my opinion on Mobil1.

 

I've used elephant repellant in my front yard for 10 years and never had any issues. One thing is for sure, it works and I've never heard any complaints from the others who use it!

 

Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic Motor Oil
Pennzoil Platinum may not offer the absolute best performance, but for the money, it's hard to beat. This synthetic oil still performs very well and is much more affordable and easier to find than higher-end synthetics such as AMSOIL, making it the all-around best synthetic oil choice for most consumers. Read Full Review Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic Motor Oil

 

AMSOIL 100% Synthetic Motor Oil
Widely considered to be the best synthetic oil money can buy, AMSOIL would be the #1 choice if it weren't for its high price tag (nearly double that of Pennzoil Platinum) and the fact that it's harder to find unless you're ordering online. AMSOIL synthetic oil can withstand extreme temperatures and holds up very well under extended drain intervals. If you want the best and don't mind paying for it, it's the way to go. Read Full Review Like I stated, the best oil for MY car is Amsoil. Bust everyone has their own opinion as to what oil is best for their car. I got this by typing in, "the best synthetic oil."

 

You do know that Synthetic Motor oil is still Petroleum Oil -- it is different in how it is processed before you put it in a container.. Something still had to die and decompose for it to exist....

 

I had not thought of using that -- thanks for the idea. I have always had two guns in the house. one is an Elephant gun and the other is a Browning HP 9mm - in the bedroom. Have never had a burgleman get inside the house. Anyway -- no issues here either. I use Dupont IMR 4064 powder in the Big gun .. even tho IMR 4350 is recommended. It seems better.

 

Think nothing of it. It is my pleasure to share my positive experiences with these magical products. After all, if it costs more and is something not offered as a factory fill, it has to be better and I am so much smarter for using it.




WRT burglars, I still have some .357 mag loads that I rolled decades ago with green dot. I think they are more potent now than when fresh.

For my .270, I like a nice IMR4831

 

Bill -- Do you know what percentage synthetic Mobil 1 is ?

all I can find is full synthetic motor oil is 100% synthetic. Odd is it not? seems they both are..

 

Many of the so-called synthetics are not synthetic at all including anything made by Castrol and the lower cost Mobil One products. It's all marketing BS today, ever since some idiot judge decided in Castrols favor in a legal battle with Mobil over what constitutes "synthetic". And in response to C6 Snowboarder - you are right, for the same reason, that most stuff labeled synthetic aint. Even Amsoil now sells lower cost oils that are not really synthetic. Real synthetic does not come from dino oil.

 

...against my better judgment...


Lubes are difficult to compare, as they keep changing their formulas, and the manufactures keep specs close to their vests. All oils / lubes have to have certain ASTM, API type tests done, but not all voluntarily report those results, publically. Amsoil does, AFIK.


Engine oils Specs such as VI, HT/HS, Noack, TBN, FP, flash, etc. Then the main streamers wanna comply (might be mandated?) to meet specs to prolong catalyst life, so the additives like ash, zinc, phos etc., are also changing - again, for emissions, not engine longevity.


Last decent spec comparison I've seen was the motor oil bible, and that's almost a decade old now, meaning suspect or out of date. I've tried to do it recently, and it's too hard to compile all the specs on a spread sheet, LOL. I just buy Amsoil...

 

If it's a full syn base, it should be. It's the blends that are not 100%. Is there a 100% claimed syn oil that is NOT fully synthetic?

 

I’ve written many posts on the topic of “real” synthetics. I’m a chemical engineer, retired from a career in the refining business. The original synthetics were poly-alpha-olefins, which were molecules that started out as dino oil, were then cracked all the way down to ethylene, and then built back up into lubricants. They were (and are) very good as base oils.

The stuff that people rant and rave about as being fake synthetic starts out as dino oil, but goes through extremely severe processing called hydrocracking to remove all of the aromatics, sulfur, and nitrogen in dino oil. Those are the bad components, and they are totally gone, literally to zero, in the “fake” synthetic. There is only one type of molecule left that is somewhat worse than the “real” synthetics, namely naphthenes. But those molecules aren’t nearly as bad as aromatics, sulfur, and nitrogen, and there aren’t many of them anyway. So if you said the “real” synthetics were 10 and dino oil was 1 on some scale of quality, the “fake” synthetics would be about 9.8 or 9.9. So in the infamous Castrol/Mobil lawsuit, the judge ruled that the “fake” synthetics could call themselves full synthetics.

Once that was done, everyone started using various mixes of the “real” and “fake” synthetics in what they marketed as full synthetic oil. There is no oil out there any more that is 100% “real” synthetic. Not Amsoil, not Redline, not Pennzoil Platinum, not Mobil 1, not any of them. They all use blend of “real” and “fake” synthetics. Two factors are most important in making them better than dino oil, and the two things are equally true of both “real” and “fake” synthetics. They both have zero aromatics, sulfur, and nitrogen, and they both have very high VI, which means they do not need much, if any VI improver additive, which isn’t very robust, and is the biggest single Achilles’ heel of motor oils.

What is marketed as a synthetic blend, as opposed to a full synthetic is different and inferior. Rather than being a blend of “real” and “fake” synthetics as described above, it is a blend of synthetics and dino oil. The dino oil brings in non-trivial amounts of aromatics, sulfur, and nitrogen, and because its VI is lower, requires much more of the non-robust VI improver additive.

So my advice to people is to use a full synthetic, not worry about the “real” versus “fake” synthetic issue, but also not confuse it with oils marketed as synthetic blends, which really are inferior. As to which brand of full synthetic, I stay out of that one. Some people swear by the boutiques like Amsoil or Redline, while others go with the big oil companies. I personally prefer the latter because they have bigger budgets to do actual engine testing, but I don’t think you’ll go wrong with any of them. Pretty much any full synthetic is going to be better than any synthetic blend or dino oil, and since even with dino oil, oil-related failures are rare, odds you will get in trouble with any full synthetic are very low.

 

Thanks for taking the time to write all that up..

 

Mine took just under 4 qts. Hit up C66 Racing on the forum and he'll take care of you. Don't forget to get the pump too if you don't have one.