Amsoil= Awesome

While we got you here, do you know if there has been any formula changes due to changes in oxygenates (MTBE to ethanol) if that was necessary? Or changes to additives link zinc, etc to extend catalyst life?
TIA
The stuff that people rant and rave about as being fake synthetic starts out as dino oil, but goes through extremely severe processing called hydrocracking to remove all of the aromatics, sulfur, and nitrogen in dino oil. Those are the bad components, and they are totally gone, literally to zero, in the “fake” synthetic. There is only one type of molecule left that is somewhat worse than the “real” synthetics, namely naphthenes. But those molecules aren’t nearly as bad as aromatics, sulfur, and nitrogen, and there aren’t many of them anyway. So if you said the “real” synthetics were 10 and dino oil was 1 on some scale of quality, the “fake” synthetics would be about 9.8 or 9.9. So in the infamous Castrol/Mobil lawsuit, the judge ruled that the “fake” synthetics could call themselves full synthetics.
Once that was done, everyone started using various mixes of the “real” and “fake” synthetics in what they marketed as full synthetic oil. There is no oil out there any more that is 100% “real” synthetic. Not Amsoil, not Redline, not Pennzoil Platinum, not Mobil 1, not any of them. They all use blend of “real” and “fake” synthetics. Two factors are most important in making them better than dino oil, and the two things are equally true of both “real” and “fake” synthetics. They both have zero aromatics, sulfur, and nitrogen, and they both have very high VI, which means they do not need much, if any VI improver additive, which isn’t very robust, and is the biggest single Achilles’ heel of motor oils.
What is marketed as a synthetic blend, as opposed to a full synthetic is different and inferior. Rather than being a blend of “real” and “fake” synthetics as described above, it is a blend of synthetics and dino oil. The dino oil brings in non-trivial amounts of aromatics, sulfur, and nitrogen, and because its VI is lower, requires much more of the non-robust VI improver additive.
So my advice to people is to use a full synthetic, not worry about the “real” versus “fake” synthetic issue, but also not confuse it with oils marketed as synthetic blends, which really are inferior. As to which brand of full synthetic, I stay out of that one. Some people swear by the boutiques like Amsoil or Redline, while others go with the big oil companies. I personally prefer the latter because they have bigger budgets to do actual engine testing, but I don’t think you’ll go wrong with any of them. Pretty much any full synthetic is going to be better than any synthetic blend or dino oil, and since even with dino oil, oil-related failures are rare, odds you will get in trouble with any full synthetic are very low.
Last edited by Chiselchst; Sep 15, 2016 at 05:56 PM.
And as for testing anything, anecdotal examples are pretty worthless.
And of course the old scientific standard that correlation does not prove causation always holds true (like the elephant gun example someone posted above.)
"I have a 2005 Zephyr with 200,000 miles on it and I've only ever run Quiky-Jack's Secret Motor Oil and the engine has no wear. Therefore Quiky-Jack's is a superior oil."
Zinc is another place where folks rant and rave, but there’s not much of substance for most people. True, zinc was the first, and many still consider it the best additive for resisting extreme pressure such as flat tappet lifters. But two things make that pretty much insignificant for most people. First, almost all engines now (including Vettes) use roller tappets, so don’t have extreme pressure points, and second, recent additive developments are comparable in effectiveness to zinc.
The reason zinc and other metallics are limited is that small amounts of oil get into the combustion chamber via PCV vapors and worn rings and valve seals, and the metals in any such oil end up on the catalytic converter catalyst, poisoning it. Some don’t like PCV for various reasons and disconnect it, but they are shooting themselves in the foot. While they don’t care about the fact that it makes a huge difference in engine emissions, what they don’t realize is that the steady flow of air through the crankcase that it provides, greatly reduces concentrations of acidity and corrosion in the crankcase. So an engine with PCV disabled will not only put out about 10 times more pollution, it will also corrode and break down much sooner.





And as for testing anything, anecdotal examples are pretty worthless.
And of course the old scientific standard that correlation does not prove causation always holds true (like the elephant gun example someone posted above.)
"I have a 2005 Zephyr with 200,000 miles on it and I've only ever run Quiky-Jack's Secret Motor Oil and the engine has no wear. Therefore Quiky-Jack's is a superior oil."
It was the Slick 50 that made it go 200K
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts











Adrienne was sure hot in her day.
And good luck with your elephants too
http://www.lubrication-filtration.co...-synthetic.asp
http://www.lubrication-filtration.co...-synthetic.asp
Bottom line is that you’re living in the world of 20 or 30 years ago. At that time, there were two choices, dino and poly alpha olefin, and the latter was the clear winner. What so many keep badmouthing as today’s fake synthetics are essentially as good for around half the cost. Just remember in all this jargon that the buzzwords that do matter are full synthetic versus synthetic blend. While full synthetics are blends of poly alpha olefins and the “fake” synthetics, they do not contain conventional dino oil. Synthetic blends do have about 50% conventional dino oil.
What some are missing is that ethylene is produced in huge world scale petrochemical plants by steam cracking ethane which is a fractional component of crude oil. So disavowing any connection whatsoever between petroleum crude oil and PAO is incorrect.















