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If you check around, you can find other long reach low profile floor jacks for a cheaper price, but the rub is finding the cross beam that will work with them isntead.
Hence on the HF long reach low profile jack, you remove the jacking point plate, and the cross bean has the same connector to just go back in the plate channel instead.
I got one of those cross-beams for my HF long-and-low Jack. It works great. Sling it under the car, Jack it up, then stick the jack stands under that same cross-beam. Easy.
The only issue I found... The saddle screw on the Jack came from the factory torqued up to some ridiculous level. I had to get a 2 foot long bar on a 10 mm Allen socket drive and still strained every sinew to loosen that bolt. When it finally came out, I looked at the Allen head... All 6 sides are now bent... It's ruined after one job. I've never seen that happen before.
If you check around, you can find other long reach low profile floor jacks for a cheaper price, but the rub is finding the cross beam that will work with them isntead.
Hence on the HF long reach low profile jack, you remove the jacking point plate, and the cross bean has the same connector to just go back in the plate channel instead.
Dano............I have the same HF aluminum jack you show. Does the HF crossbeam fit the aluminum jack without any modification?
Scott
I have found the only issue with Race Ramps is that you really need a second person to watch as you pull onto them...any slight variance in angle/steering and you risk dropping off the side. It is not a biggy, but it is much easier than getting on them, getting out of car to check alignment, back in, etc. The other issue is for some work there is no substitute for stands as you need the ability to remove wheels. I use both, but for speed, I find many times it is much faster to simply jack it up, stand it, and get the work done, as in my case, due to size I store the RRs in my shed, and by the time I go retrieve them, and get the car on them, I would have the cars stranded and work half done.
Ultimately I would like to get the hydraulic side lifts that give about 28" of lift and you cant take all four wheels off besides! These roll, and store vertical and use a standard compressor to lift with.
I have found the only issue with Race Ramps is that you really need a second person to watch as you pull onto them...any slight variance in angle/steering and you risk dropping off the side. It is not a biggy, but it is much easier than getting on them, getting out of car to check alignment, back in, etc. The other issue is for some work there is no substitute for stands as you need the ability to remove wheels. I use both, but for speed, I find many times it is much faster to simply jack it up, stand it, and get the work done, as in my case, due to size I store the RRs in my shed, and by the time I go retrieve them, and get the car on them, I would have the cars stranded and work half done.
Ultimately I would like to get the hydraulic side lifts that give about 28" of lift and you cant take all four wheels off besides! These roll, and store vertical and use a standard compressor to lift with.
The ultimate solution would be to install air cylinders on the frame and plumbed to an on-board compressor with a quick connect port for a backup. Having the piston rod length lockable in at least two positions (wheel removable and underside access), would make ramps, jacks, and jackstands, obsolete and also be location independent. A side benefit of the compressor would be for airing tires and the killer train horn.