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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 09:11 PM
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Default Fob problems

I have a 2007 c6 convertible. My car door will open and the window goes down a bit to clear the convertible top, but when I hit the start button it says the fobs are not recognized. I just put new batteries in both. the car battery has been on a battery tender also. I have disconnected the positive terminal several times and reconnected after about 15 seconds. It does the same thing. I have the window down about 5 inches now and can't get it up. This is the result of trying the fobs. I hate to leave it down all winter and would like to get it up. If I could just start the car one time I could fix that problem. I am contemplating getting a brand new car battery in hopes of solving all the problems. Any thoughts on that? Any suggestions would be helpful and appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave

Last edited by mdysis; Dec 6, 2016 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 09:34 PM
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Have you tried putting the fob in the slot of the glovebox to start the car?
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 09:37 PM
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No, I haven't tried that yet. Do you think that would start the car even though it is not recognizing the fob? Its odd that it will unlock the car and not start it.
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 09:43 PM
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Have you checked the car battery? If it is weak or bad, the doors/locks will still work, but the car won't start and you can get the 'no fob detected' message. It's happened to me
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Welker1
Have you checked the car battery? If it is weak or bad, the doors/locks will still work, but the car won't start and you can get the 'no fob detected' message. It's happened to me
I have had a battery tender on it and the green light has been on indicating a charged battery. I suppose the battery could have the low voltage problem however. I think that will be the next step, to get a new battery.
Thanks Welker1
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mdysis
I have had a battery tender on it and the green light has been on indicating a charged battery. I suppose the battery could have the low voltage problem however. I think that will be the next step, to get a new battery.
Thanks Welker1
It doesn't take much of a voltage drop at the battery for many problems to show up - - messages on the DIC and DTCs getting thrown. You can have the battery load tested to see if there's a bad cell. As for the window being down five inches or so, it sounds like you might need to re-index the windows. You'll definitely have to if you replace the battery.

Steve
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mdysis
No, I haven't tried that yet. Do you think that would start the car even though it is not recognizing the fob? Its odd that it will unlock the car and not start it.
No that is not odd that you can open the door and then get the NO FOB DETECTED'.I carry my in my left pocket and I just move it around a bit and it starts.Good Luck
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 11:52 PM
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Before buying a new battery try disconnecting the negative cable for at least 5 minutes and leave the charger off. Press the start switch to activate accessories for about 10 seconds or until the instruments come on. Then scroll through the menu to see the voltage. It needs to be above 9 to start the car. I'm assuming you have no other way to check voltage.

Other things to check are cell phones, fluorescent lights, security devices, and battery chargers in use, or other things that can cause electrical interference nearby. Turn them all off or move them away.
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 11:55 PM
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Seen something similar and it was the battery. The tenders always lie. We use them on waverunners all the time and the battery maintainers do not do a great job of maintaining the batteries.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 12:12 AM
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Just to clarify, pressing acc for 5 or more seconds, turns on the Service Only Mode, which is basically "ON" in a keyed car.

You can do (access) almost everything that you can do when the car is running. You can even run codes in this mode, but it will not time out like acc will. You must exit this mode when exiting the car.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 12:29 AM
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Remember that when you disconnect, then reconnect the car battery, you will need to reset the window indexing for both windows.

With the engine running and the window down, close the car door. Raise the window and hold the up switch an extra 3 seconds. Release. Without lowering the window, hold the up switch again for 3 seconds. Release. Done. Don't forget the other window.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 06:20 AM
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Thank you everyone for the help. I will try some of the above suggestions and let you know my results. I had a funny story last year at the beach. I had the top down and when I got there the top wouldn't go back up. Looked at the fuses, which were three different ones, all good. There was a manual crank or means somewhere under and around the passenger seat. Looked real quick, but didn't see it. Left it alone and went to the beach with my manual and looked for other answers. Didn't see anything more. I decided to stop at the Chevy dealer on the way home and missed them by 10 mins. It was Sunday and they were only open until 3:00. I went home and parked under my covered driveway until Monday. I decided to put the passenger and driver's window up to slow any wind that might go through. Then I said to myself, I may as well try the top again and low and behold, it went up. So, everything seems to stem around those window switches. Go figure. Hope that may help anyone with a similar situation. I didn't see that fix in the manual, but it probably is in there somewhere.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 08:48 AM
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The problem may be the FOB RECEIVER. I had repeated problems with my '07 with various electronic components not working or malfunctioning. Then one day during a cruise the whole car shut down completely and had to have a tow (to dealer). Fortunately, the car was under warranty at the time so GM picked up the tab for the towing (and even cab ride home for the wife). Dealer replaced the fob receiver and I never had another issue for the rest of the time I had the car. Later found out that this was a common problem for 07's. I believe the unit is mounted under the hood on the firewall. Good luck!
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mdysis
I have had a battery tender on it and the green light has been on indicating a charged battery. I suppose the battery could have the low voltage problem however. I think that will be the next step, to get a new battery.
Thanks Welker1
Instead of just getting a new battery, check the voltage at the time that you try to start the car...see if it is around 12 volts. Also, if the car is not locked then the fob has nothing to do with opening the car door. Put a meter on the battery and then have someone try starting the car while you watch the voltage. Also try putting the fob in the slot, keyring out and buttons to the passenger side.
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Before buying a new battery try disconnecting the negative cable for at least 5 minutes and leave the charger off. Press the start switch to activate accessories for about 10 seconds or until the instruments come on. Then scroll through the menu to see the voltage. It needs to be above 9 to start the car. I'm assuming you have no other way to check voltage.

Other things to check are cell phones, fluorescent lights, security devices, and battery chargers in use, or other things that can cause electrical interference nearby. Turn them all off or move them away.

I have two double tube 8' Fluorescents in my Vette garage bay and they do interfere. I get a No Fob many times with them on, never an issue when they're off. Never have an issue outside the garage. I assume the magnetic ballasts are the issue in my case.
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 10:23 AM
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Magnets of any sort can cause interference. I have a purse with two very strong magnets as clasps, and my fob will rarely be recognized with my fob inside. I can get in, but I can't start the car without pulling the fob outside the purse.
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mdysis
Thank you everyone for the help. I will try some of the above suggestions and let you know my results. I had a funny story last year at the beach. I had the top down and when I got there the top wouldn't go back up. Looked at the fuses, which were three different ones, all good. There was a manual crank or means somewhere under and around the passenger seat. Looked real quick, but didn't see it. Left it alone and went to the beach with my manual and looked for other answers. Didn't see anything more. I decided to stop at the Chevy dealer on the way home and missed them by 10 mins. It was Sunday and they were only open until 3:00. I went home and parked under my covered driveway until Monday. I decided to put the passenger and driver's window up to slow any wind that might go through. Then I said to myself, I may as well try the top again and low and behold, it went up. So, everything seems to stem around those window switches. Go figure. Hope that may help anyone with a similar situation. I didn't see that fix in the manual, but it probably is in there somewhere.
You basically re-indexed the windows. Anytime you have an issue with the top not functioning properly, re-index the windows. it will solve your problem most of the time.
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 02:39 PM
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Sounds like you need to replace the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver). Its mounted under the dash pad just above the center a/c vents. If you put your fob in the glove compartment slot on the left hand side with the buttons facing left you will be able to start the car. The RCDLR is easy enough to replace but the module has to have the programmed. I use a Snap-on Edge scanner, so you don't need to go to a dealership. Also to re index the windows just bring the window all the way down and hold the button down for 5 seconds and then raise the window up and hold the button up for 5 seconds and that will reset the windows.

Last edited by robertmc1958@gmail.c; Dec 8, 2016 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by robertmc1958@gmail.c
Sounds like you need to replace the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver). Its mounted under the dash pad just above the center a/c vents. If you put your fob in the glove compartment slot on the left hand side with the buttons facing left you will be able to start the car. The RCDLR is easy enough to replace but the module has to have the programmed. I use a Snap-on Edge scanner, so you don't need to go to a dealership. Also to re index the windows just bring the window all the way down and hold the button down for 5 seconds and then raise the window up and hold the button up for 5 seconds and that will reset the windows.
Actually, the buttons on the fob must point to the right in the glove box slot.
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ShadowB

I have two double tube 8' Fluorescents in my Vette garage bay and they do interfere. I get a No Fob many times with them on, never an issue when they're off. Never have an issue outside the garage. I assume the magnetic ballasts are the issue in my case.
Thanks, that is interesting. I have 6 fluorescent lights in that bay. I will test that theory.
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