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Key FOB Hell, Help Needed Please

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Old Jan 4, 2019 | 12:06 PM
  #21  
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Don-Vette - Not sure you are even responding to my thread. If you are, I don't think your read what the issue is. What do you mean hands are full? I'm not locked in my car. My car won't start. Fob in hand, pocket, cupholder, or in glove box slot. Fob works outside car to work alarm, lights, etc. Dash says no fob detected. Before I reprogrammed it, the fob didn't work unlocking car, lights, etc, and would only start the car when in the slot.

Last edited by Bmann3238; Jan 4, 2019 at 12:27 PM.
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 12:08 PM
  #22  
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The fob battery can't be it. even with no battery in a fob, the car should start in the glove box slot. The fob is able to unlock and lock car, pop hatch, etc, but car will not start. Dash says no fob detected. When I try to reprogram again thinking it just didn't take, it says ready for fob #2 and won't even program the first one, because it sees it recognized, but it still says no fob detected! I heard disconnecting then reconnecting car battery would help....not sure though

Last edited by Bmann3238; Jan 4, 2019 at 12:30 PM.
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 01:15 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by bmann323
The fob battery can't be it. even with no battery in a fob, the car should start in the glove box slot. The fob is able to unlock and lock car, pop hatch, etc, but car will not start. Dash says no fob detected. When I try to reprogram again thinking it just didn't take, it says ready for fob #2 and won't even program the first one, because it sees it recognized, but it still says no fob detected! I heard disconnecting then reconnecting car battery would help....not sure though
It sounds like you have a power problem that's getting worse. Insufficient power to run the RDCLR (hence NO FOB DETECTED) and now insufficient power to start the car. The battery is the #1 suspect, followed by battery cables and connections. What is the battery voltage with just the accessories on?
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 01:44 PM
  #24  
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Yeah you might be onto something. It has an optima red top replaced in july and I have never tendered the battery because I didn't know better. I got the car in july too. So 2 weeks ago I went to start it and it did start a little reluctantly, but it started. Last week was the reprogramming fiasco which I did without a trickle charger on. So then I bought a tender. It showed the battery was fully charged after many hours. I took the tender off the car for a few hours and then when I hooked it back up, it was showing the battery was charging again. I was thinking that it would be odd that it would have lost some charge in order for the tender to kick on only after a few hours. According to when the accesories are on with the digital gauge on the dash, it showed 11.4. I was thinking that there may be not enough cranking amps to start it but enough voltage to run accessories. What do you think? I called optima batteries and guy said that one cell could have sulfated? and weakened from not using the car/battery enough and not being on a trickle charge. Whatdya think?

Last edited by Bmann3238; Jan 4, 2019 at 01:44 PM.
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 04:39 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bmann323
According to when the accesories are on with the digital gauge on the dash, it showed 11.4. I was thinking that there may be not enough cranking amps to start it but enough voltage to run accessories. What do you think?
Too low for no load. It's not that your battery couldn't spin a starter slowly - the problem is that the voltage will drop so much that the computer will conk out. And it's the computer that runs the starter. So it just doesn't crank at all.
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 04:44 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bmann323
I called optima batteries and guy said that one cell could have sulfated? and weakened from not using the car/battery enough and not being on a trickle charge. Whatdya think?
It's winter, which is hard on batteries. More of these no-start threads appear during cold weather. I use a CTEK charger and a plain old lead-acid AC Delco battery which seem to work fine.
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 06:02 PM
  #27  
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So if I'm understanding you correctly, my battery is bad even though it's from July and get a new battery? That would be 100$ well spent.
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 06:05 PM
  #28  
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So you're thinking get a new battery? It's so odd, I thought optima batteries were the best and this was installed in july! I just checked volts again in accessory mode and it says 11.8

Last edited by Bmann3238; Jan 4, 2019 at 06:06 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2019 | 06:09 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bmann323
So you're thinking get a new battery? It's so odd, I thought optima batteries were the best and this was installed in july! I just checked volts again in accessory mode and it says 11.8
You don't have to guess at this, get it load-tested at your nearest auto parts store, for free. Didn't somebody already mention this on page one?
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 06:13 PM
  #30  
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Yes Bruze, someone did mention it already. However, based on the thousands of similar issues with everyone having their own experiences, it's nice to get a plan of action from more than one person so I don't waste my time or money. I just find it hard to wrap my head around the fact that it's the battery because it's an expensive battery that's only 5 months old.
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 06:43 PM
  #31  
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Ok, just got the battery load tested. It showed 500 cold cranking amps. The battery label says that it is a 800 CCA battery. Does anyone know what this computer system requires in order for computer to want to start it?

Last edited by Bmann3238; Jan 4, 2019 at 06:43 PM.
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 06:45 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bmann323
Yes Bruze, someone did mention it already. However, based on the thousands of similar issues with everyone having their own experiences, it's nice to get a plan of action from more than one person so I don't waste my time or money. I just find it hard to wrap my head around the fact that it's the battery because it's an expensive battery that's only 5 months old.
Okay, here's your plan of action:

The way to diagnose any kind of problem is to rule out the most obvious, common, and easily-fixed things first and work your way back. If you don't load test the battery then you cannot rule it out and may (or may not) be fiddling around with other things that turn out to be irrelevant.
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 06:46 PM
  #33  
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Haha Bruze - I typed a reply as soon as you sent me this message. Ok, just got the battery load tested. It showed 500 cold cranking amps. The battery label says that it is a 800 CCA battery. Does anyone know what this computer system requires in order for computer to want to start it?
Old Jan 5, 2019 | 10:34 PM
  #34  
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Disconnected battery, reconnected and tightened. Car starts.
Old Jan 6, 2019 | 01:06 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mfquinn
I did search so please no lectures. I have a 2008 and my two original key fobs. The first one has fallen apart and is no longer working (#2). My #1 doesn't work about 90% of the time even with a NEW battery. So I purchased a new fob and tried to follow the instructions in the owners manual for registering a new fob while still having a working one with you. It DIDN'T work as the manual said it would but eventually the new fob works. However it is known as #3.

My first question is how do you make this new fob #1 to the car? The reason I am asking this is because I have NO options available. Yes, I did follow the instructions for setting up options but when the options button is pushed I get OPTIONS UNAVAILABLE. Is this because you can only have options for fob #1 and #2? If not, any ideas why it won't give me the "option" to set up options for the new fob that is recognized as fob #3?

Any idea how to make the car think this new fob is now #1?

your help would be greatly appreciated as I am a bit frustrated at this point
Same message I got because i did the short method on my new fob....To get the options you MUST do the long method...Good Luck
Old Jan 7, 2019 | 07:05 PM
  #36  
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Check page 2-8 in your owners manual. I think this might help you
Old Feb 27, 2019 | 08:49 PM
  #37  
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Flame? Okay. Take your choice. It can be either you're too lazy to use a key or too dumb to figure out how to run your high-tech, superfast, modern car. Go get something with a crank, don't be one.
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