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I did search so please no lectures. I have a 2008 and my two original key fobs. The first one has fallen apart and is no longer working (#2). My #1 doesn't work about 90% of the time even with a NEW battery. So I purchased a new fob and tried to follow the instructions in the owners manual for registering a new fob while still having a working one with you. It DIDN'T work as the manual said it would but eventually the new fob works. However it is known as #3.
My first question is how do you make this new fob #1 to the car? The reason I am asking this is because I have NO options available. Yes, I did follow the instructions for setting up options but when the options button is pushed I get OPTIONS UNAVAILABLE. Is this because you can only have options for fob #1 and #2? If not, any ideas why it won't give me the "option" to set up options for the new fob that is recognized as fob #3?
Any idea how to make the car think this new fob is now #1?
your help would be greatly appreciated as I am a bit frustrated at this point
Yes you do need fob 1 or 2 for options to work. There are 2 procedures to program the fob. One is short and one is long. You need to follow the long procedure which will erase all fobs and start with 1.
When I replaced both FOBs and key cylinder for Red, my '07 vert, I eventually learned that to program an new #1 and #2 I had to keep each of them in the house far away until it was each's turn. That information was in the instructions, but it wasn't really that obvious. Once I took them far away, the "from scratch" instructions worked fine.
Note for the curious: I had to replace the key cylinder because my old numeric key code (the locksmith's key cutting instructions) contained a "1". Keys for later model FOBs cannot be cut with a "1" depth, so I had to buy a new cylinder to go with the new FOBs. It comes with two new keys for the new FOBs.
They work just fine for some folks, especially the ones who have their hands full when they get out of the car and need to lock the doors.
If your hands are full, how can you open the door to get out of the car and work the fob? I keep hearing the hands full argument to justify this pointless troublemaking method of simply starting a car but its a no sale here.
What about the idiotic doors? Due to the lack of reliability, you need a cable release too so why bother with the electronics? Why not just the cable?
All this crapola is meaningless gee whiz which just adds complexity and maintenance issues w/o adding value.
If your hands are full, how can you open the door to get out of the car and work the fob? I keep hearing the hands full argument to justify this pointless troublemaking method of simply starting a car but its a no sale here.
What about the idiotic doors? Due to the lack of reliability, you need a cable release too so why bother with the electronics? Why not just the cable?
All this crapola is meaningless gee whiz which just adds complexity and maintenance issues w/o adding value.
Oh come on. The doors are idiotic? Hardly. The lowly key FOB is the carry-around part of a substantial weight savings in a C6, and a significant contributor to the rarity of Corvette thefts. Yes, there are occasional problems with FOB batteries, cases, and even keys. So what? To say they "add complexity and maintenance issues w/o adding value" is an overstatement.
You need to do the long procedure in order to get a new fob into the number 1 position. Options are only available on 1 and 2, 3 and 4 just open and start the car...think of them as 'valet' fobs.
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Understanding how technology works is half the battle to be able to fix it when it fails.
If your #1 fob works at all, then there are only a couple reasons it doesn't work all the time. Just because you installed a "new" battery, there's no assurance it has enough voltage or that it's making proper contact internally. A new one is 3.2 v or greater and failure is possible as early as 3.09 v. If you're using a battery that has a deep grid on the negative side, put a little piece of aluminum foil over it or buy a smooth side battery. If you've had the case opened often, bending the spring contacts to create more tension helps. A cracked PC board is possible, but extremely unlikely. Electrical interference is the second most likely cause of intermittent non-function. Cell phones, chargers, GPS, florescent lights, and security cameras are just a few of the things to be suspect.
There are other reasons some of the car functions don't work, but they aren't related to the fob itself.
If your hands are full, how can you open the door to get out of the car and work the fob? I keep hearing the hands full argument to justify this pointless troublemaking method of simply starting a car but its a no sale here.
What about the idiotic doors? Due to the lack of reliability, you need a cable release too so why bother with the electronics? Why not just the cable?
All this crapola is meaningless gee whiz which just adds complexity and maintenance issues w/o adding value.
I agree 100%.
How many threads are there on the internet regarding problems with fobs? (I have no clue, but there sure are plenty here on CF.)
How many threads are there about problems with metal keys on older cars?
Upside to fob: You don't have to take it out of your pocket to open or start the car. Whoop-de-doo. If you're physically unable to take a key out of your pocket, maybe you should be in a nursing home instead of driving a 400+ hp sports car.
Downside of fob: Layers upon layers of finicky electronic gadgetry that when it goes haywire, leaves the average person dumbfounded, who might rather spend their time doing other things with their life. They are reduced to spending hours searching on the internet for a possible answer or taking it to a dealer and paying them to hopefully iron things out. Meanwhile, they may not even be able to use their car.
Increasing complexity and reducing reliability just for the sake of "because we can" is dumb.
I did search so please no lectures. I have a 2008 and my two original key fobs. The first one has fallen apart and is no longer working (#2). My #1 doesn't work about 90% of the time even with a NEW battery. So I purchased a new fob and tried to follow the instructions in the owners manual for registering a new fob while still having a working one with you. It DIDN'T work as the manual said it would but eventually the new fob works. However it is known as #3.
My first question is how do you make this new fob #1 to the car? The reason I am asking this is because I have NO options available. Yes, I did follow the instructions for setting up options but when the options button is pushed I get OPTIONS UNAVAILABLE. Is this because you can only have options for fob #1 and #2? If not, any ideas why it won't give me the "option" to set up options for the new fob that is recognized as fob #3?
Any idea how to make the car think this new fob is now #1?
your help would be greatly appreciated as I am a bit frustrated at this point
It could be you have the same problem I have ... the case isn't snapping together properly, and therefore the right electrical contacts aren't being made. I had to squeeze mine together until I discovered that you can tape them together with non-stretching tape (electrical tape doesn't work well). Try that method.
If your hands are full, how can you open the door to get out of the car and work the fob? I keep hearing the hands full argument to justify this pointless troublemaking method of simply starting a car but its a no sale here.
What about the idiotic doors? Due to the lack of reliability, you need a cable release too so why bother with the electronics? Why not just the cable?
All this crapola is meaningless gee whiz which just adds complexity and maintenance issues w/o adding value.
Open my door before I put the other sack in my hand. I've had 5 C6s and I've always left the car with the doors locked. I've NEVER, NEVER used the fob to lock the doors.
But cry a little more for us.
Let me look around a little bit. Maybe I can find a car for some of you that is started by turning the crank on the outside front of the car.
Last edited by Vette_DD; Dec 27, 2016 at 10:30 AM.
help! I have a 2005 manual, car won't start. I have one fob I changed the battery in September because it Kept saying no fob detected. Even after changing battery, from that point it would still only work in glovebox slot. I finally got tired of that, decided to reprogram the fob using the method that takes 30 min. When it was reprogrammed, all of the buttons worked on the fob and I could go into accessory mode but it wouldn’t start-not even make an attempt to turn over even with it in the slot. I can’t grasp why if the fob reprogrammed and works the electronics why it can’t start. So I tried to reprogram again, it says ready for fob 2 when it's in the slot - but still says no fob detected, still won't start. I've also tried to jump it with my wife's truck. no luck. Also used a commercial jump pack. nope. Battery is an optima red top new in july. I live in NYHELP!
I have no idea what's wrong but maybe you can console yourself for not having to struggle twisting a steel key in some slot to start your car as in the bad old days when things simply worked.
Understanding how technology works is half the battle to be able to fix it when it fails.
If your #1 fob works at all, then there are only a couple reasons it doesn't work all the time. Just because you installed a "new" battery, there's no assurance it has enough voltage or that it's making proper contact internally. A new one is 3.2 v or greater and failure is possible as early as 3.09 v. If you're using a battery that has a deep grid on the negative side, put a little piece of aluminum foil over it or buy a smooth side battery. If you've had the case opened often, bending the spring contacts to create more tension helps. A cracked PC board is possible, but extremely unlikely. Electrical interference is the second most likely cause of intermittent non-function. Cell phones, chargers, GPS, florescent lights, and security cameras are just a few of the things to be suspect.
There are other reasons some of the car functions don't work, but they aren't related to the fob itself.
The fob does not work in the glove box or out of the glove box. Before I reprogrammed the fob because it only worked when I put it in the glove box and was getting tired of that, it would start the car up just fine. After the reprogramming it’s the opposite. The Farb unlocks the doors pop the hatch etc. but the car will not start even when using the slot. So I know that I have a functioning slot. I have an Optima red top battery that is on the tender but I’m not sure if I have a problem with the battery because when I unplug it from the tender after a few hours I plug it back in and it shows that it’s charging the battery up again. I would think if the battery was good after about two hours off of the tender when plugging it back in it wouldn’t go back in the charging mode it should still stay fully charged. Is it possible I have enough voltage but the battery is going bad with not enough cranking amps for the car to want to start it? The battery is new from July but I’ve only recently put it on the tender when I had this problem of the car not starting.
The fob does not work in the glove box or out of the glove box. Before I reprogrammed the fob because it only worked when I put it in the glove box and was getting tired of that, it would start the car up just fine. After the reprogramming it’s the opposite. The Farb unlocks the doors pop the hatch etc. but the car will not start even when using the slot. So I know that I have a functioning slot. I have an Optima red top battery that is on the tender but I’m not sure if I have a problem with the battery because when I unplug it from the tender after a few hours I plug it back in and it shows that it’s charging the battery up again. I would think if the battery was good after about two hours off of the tender when plugging it back in it wouldn’t go back in the charging mode it should still stay fully charged. Is it possible I have enough voltage but the battery is going bad with not enough cranking amps for the car to want to start it? The battery is new from July but I’ve only recently put it on the tender when I had this problem of the car not starting.
Thanks I think that’s my next step. I just can’t figure out why it stil reads no fob detected, but I am able to open it, disarm, go into accessory mode but it won’t start even in glove box slot. Meanwhile; it did the opposite before reprogramming. Fob would start car in glove box slot but it wouldn’t work remote functions.
If your hands are full, how can you open the door to get out of the car and work the fob? I keep hearing the hands full argument to justify this pointless troublemaking method of simply starting a car but its a no sale here.
What about the idiotic doors? Due to the lack of reliability, you need a cable release too so why bother with the electronics? Why not just the cable?
All this crapola is meaningless gee whiz which just adds complexity and maintenance issues w/o adding value.