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So yesterday evening I was running around doing errands stopped at 2 stores. Dropped something off back at the house. Each time I turned the car off. Its a 08 Base 3lt. The next stop got back in the car, while entering the door "hung" a little bit. Foot on the brake pressed the Go Button, DIC turns on guages scan and just a click. DIC goes out, CEL stays on, sit and wait. Then the DIC cycles again lights, radio come on pressed Button and click. (like a relay) This happens 3 times. I get the fob out of my pocket and was going to put it in the glove box port. pressed lock and unlock on first. No change. Open the door and close it. Now it starts.
I got the car 10.01.2016 and have yet to take out the battery to inspect for a date code was just thinking of that while going to this incident. Could the door hanging be something that the car took as theft attempt. Also I am not sure when but the horn sounded 3 beeps when it did start.
Totally sounds like a battery going bad....all those things are normal except the no start. Dash lights always go off when starting...people just don't notice it when the car starts normally. Also could be a corroded connection...at the battery or at the starter end of the cable.
I usually only let my batteries go 5 years. But I have seen them die in 3-4 years.Off to O'Reilly Auto Parts. This way I'll know that its at least new.
Upon inspection of the battery it has a sticker of 10/15. I am going to wait a bit as its only 14 months old. Which led me to believe the error occurred with the door pad. Opening it I discovered the corrosion. Cleaned lubed both door pads. Both doors pop open with authority now.
dsherman
Last edited by dsherman; Dec 28, 2016 at 04:02 PM.
Corroded pads could definitely account for a sluggish latch, you did a bang-up job cleaning 'em too. Look great.
But latches have nothing to do w/ dash lamps, relay chattering etc.
Symptoms are of a bad/failing battery, most long time C6 owners been through this at least once.
While battery appears relatively new, didn't have it load tested anyway? Batteries can/do develop bad cells.
I usually only let my batteries go 5 years. But I have seen them die in 3-4 years.Off to O'Reilly Auto Parts. This way I'll know that its at least new.
dsherman
5 years on a battery, not in Arizona heat, I figure 30 months is tops and after 15 years here it stands true today.
In fact yesterday mine did the dreaded click, click, click, so trip to favorite Chinese place went "kaput" Put my auto charger on it and starts immediately, charged it today and starts right off but one more time and off to AutoZone for the same one that's in there. But it was bought by the seller 28 months ago so no warranty. but they come with free 3 year replacement and 5 year pro rate, $115 and fits perfectly
85DLG model#
NSF
From: Currently somewhere in IL,IN,KY,TN,MO,AR,MS,AL, or FL
Have you check the connections as suggested yet? Both the battery connections and also the connection at the starter have been known to cause all your symptoms frequently. Slamming the door vibrates the car which jiggles the connections.
I replaced my battery while back when I was getting strange lights coming on and radio not working properly.
So I replaced the battery, 9 months it went dead, had it replaced under warranty, and then eleven months later had that one replaced. Now this battery so far year and half and going strong.
The moral of the story is batteries fail.
No electric problem with car, can leave it for two weeks, and it fires right up.
Today searched for the elusive Group 85 that is in the car. No joy. Interstate lists a MTP-90T $150 85 month. So I removed it and checked the acid and was low on the outside cells, Charged it on 2 amps for a few hours, drove it once or twice after and had no issues. Also I used the #2 Fob. Not sure if that is a issue. Just trying to eliminate things. Battery voltage on #1 Fob seems to be good at 2.98 Volts. Will check the Starter connections once I get it up in the air. Not able to get it in The Shop as of yet.
Today searched for the elusive Group 85 that is in the car. No joy. Interstate lists a MTP-90T $150 85 month. So I removed it and checked the acid and was low on the outside cells, Charged it on 2 amps for a few hours, drove it once or twice after and had no issues. Also I used the #2 Fob. Not sure if that is a issue. Just trying to eliminate things. Battery voltage on #1 Fob seems to be good at 2.98 Volts. Will check the Starter connections once I get it up in the air. Not able to get it in The Shop as of yet.
Thanks again everyone!!
dsherman
I would replace the fob battery...the fobs are very sensitive to low voltage...we have seen big problems with voltage at 2.85...not that far off. A new 2032 battery will show 3.25 or so. It's worth a couple of bucks to do it.
What group battery did you purchase. And most modern cars do not allow a sub-par battery.
dsherman
I bought an Advanced Auto Gold battery, they installed it for me, and they gave me a 10% military discount. I've had this battery before (time before last, IIRC), and it performed for about three years. I don't think I've ever had a battery go longer than that, regardless of brand.
Same problem. On Feb. 2016 , I had my first problem of cranking. I had no response from pushing the stat button except strange reactions from the DIC. After closing and reclosing the doors and waiting about 5 minutes, it cranked. Since then it has cranked fine until last week. Where it did the same thing. Afraid that I might get stranded the next time, I set up an appointment with the dealer this morning. Not only did the car not react to me trying to start it, it locked me inside. It took a while to discover the emergency release in next to the driver's seat since I was in the dark. But I did get out and am considering seriously of getting rid of the car. I am going to replace the car battery and both fob batteries and see what happens.
From: Currently somewhere in IL,IN,KY,TN,MO,AR,MS,AL, or FL
Originally Posted by dsherman
Today searched for the elusive Group 85 that is in the car. No joy. Interstate lists a MTP-90T $150 85 month. So I removed it and checked the acid and was low on the outside cells, Charged it on 2 amps for a few hours, drove it once or twice after and had no issues. Also I used the #2 Fob. Not sure if that is a issue. Just trying to eliminate things. Battery voltage on #1 Fob seems to be good at 2.98 Volts. Will check the Starter connections once I get it up in the air. Not able to get it in The Shop as of yet.
Thanks again everyone!!
dsherman
I hope you charged the battery before topping it off with water. You should add just enough water to cover the plates of a discharged battery. As you charge a battery the chemistry of a lead acid battery causes the level to rise. You are putting sulfur back into solution as sulfuric acid.
Next, you said the car would think about starting (lights going out and clicking) when you pushed the start button. That eliminates any possible FOB issue. If there is a problem with the FOB you will just get a message on the DIC "NO FOB DETECTED" and the car will not do anything else.