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Wheel alignment after lowering

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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 01:12 PM
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Default Wheel alignment after lowering

After lowering the factory bolts all the way down will there be any problem with getting the alignment in spec? I know sometime the camber won't come in if you lower it too much on certain vehicles...
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kenoverbey
After lowering the factory bolts all the way down will there be any problem with getting the alignment in spec? I know sometime the camber won't come in if you lower it too much on certain vehicles...
I've lowered by my C5 and C6 all the way down on stock bolts and had no problems with the alignment afterward.
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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Depends. How much do you care about your tires and handling??
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 01:58 PM
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When you take it in for the alignment, bring in a copy of the Pfadt Street specs and ask to have it set to that. It's the most recommended setup here.
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 02:48 PM
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I wonder if the alignment specs should be revised once the car is lowered?

Different CofG, different roll centers, and different geometry at the attachment points. Perhaps it's too little change to matter? Just thinking out loud.
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 03:39 PM
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Just recently lowered my car completely on stock bolts and cut 1/3 of the rear bushing off. Had it aligned 3 weeks later to factory specs, no problem at all.
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 08:16 PM
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Best to drive a couple of hundred miles before the alignment, so everything has settled to its final position.
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 08:33 PM
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If alignment has not been checked in a while have it checked these cars are sensitive to four wheel alignment. If the shop is using one of the new Hunter machines they can get everything perfect with an experienced tech running the machine. Well worth the $100 or so.
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Best to drive a couple of hundred miles before the alignment, so everything has settled to its final position.
And it will "settle"
NSF
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 03:18 PM
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It came into spec no problem. I wasn't sure if it had enough adjustment for the camber to come back in to the nominal setting but no problem. The rear toe and camber was WAAAY out. I now know why it wanted to drive off the road during our little bout with the snow last week. I did drive a couple of weeks after lowering it so everything should be fine. Thanks for answering an honest question without being know it all a-holes like some people were on my last post.
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 04:19 PM
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Yeah. My rears were waaay out after hardbar bolts. You could SEE it was off!
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 05:20 PM
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Most techs don't actually use a torque wrench to tighten everything once the alignment is set, but I've seen several posts that the book torque numbers do not prevent the bolts from shifting after a while- tighter is needed, but how much?

That three-foot cheater bar would probably be overdoing it...
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Old Jan 13, 2017 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
Most techs don't actually use a torque wrench to tighten everything once the alignment is set, but I've seen several posts that the book torque numbers do not prevent the bolts from shifting after a while- tighter is needed, but how much?

That three-foot cheater bar would probably be overdoing it...
But yes giving it more than is the number in the book for the rear torquing is what is done by the tech I've used.
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