Once you get the exhaust and torque tube cover out of the way, it takes about 5 min to change both fore and aft clips on shifter cable.

 

If that is the case then it makes sense to put on a lift and do it this way because opening the console is a headache? I was going to get my independent mechanic to do this for me (if he is willing - he wants to do easy jobs only these days ).

 

Which is the easiest way to change the entire cable? From the bottom also?

 

Yes. From the bottom.

 

Ok, thanks (yet again!) HB!

So . . . . . if one wanted to change the cable AND tie the pawl back at the same time, the easiest way would be to change the cable from underneath, then remove the console enough to get at the pawl?

I have to do both of these fixes this year. Every time I move the shift lever I tense up like I'm about to get a prostate exam, waiting for one of the two issues to ruin my day.

As I've noted here before, like if I'm in an auto car wash I will leave it running in D and set the brake rather than move it to Park.

When I'm unloading groceries, or washing the car in the yard, I make sure that I'm able to just pull forward without having to back up first and then go forward -- saving one "move" on the mechanism. I also try to get a spot in public parking lots where I only have to go forward to leave. Having to do this (or being this paranoid) for the first time in my life is dumb.

 

Gads, I got lucky, Carfax showed my shifter assembly was replaced just before I bought the car. The dealer that did it is a good customer of mine so he looked it up and it started with a cable failure. Glad I'm not dealing with this.

 

the pawl flaw got me last fall, fortunately in my driveway, you better not put that one off either - taking it apart takes time but putting back together didn't take more than 10 minutes

 

Does anybody know how much labour in time a dealer charges for the cable replacement?

 

I did mine myself but I did check with the dealer first and they quoted 3 hours. I did it at home in about 2 hours. I replaced the cable from the bottom but I also removed the console and tied back the shifter pawl. Removing the console only takes about 15 minutes. Check YouTube for videos. The hardest part of console removal was unplugging the electronics (seat warmers, lighter, etc) from the back of it.

The shifter cable replacement is a bit of work so if you are not up to it, best to have a mechanic do it for you. I see no point in replacing both grommets unless it is a temporary fix. Several have reported the actual cable breaking here so it is a part that can wear out (probably because of the heat).

Don't let console removal keep you from fixing the shifter pawl. That one really is easy even if you are not a mechanic or not physically up to laying under a car anymore.

 

thanks for the info - looks like I will buy the cable and get my mechanic to do it - I already did the pawl myself last Fall but there is no way I can do the cable replacement

 

I just bought a new cable for my 05, $60 shipped oem GM

 

Very easy really assuming you follow instructions. The only electrical connector that gave me trouble is the auxiliary power port in the center console compartment. Save it for last so that you can flip the trim piece upside down so you can get a good look at it. The connector release tab will otherwise not be seen.

 

Some very good info here on both the problem and the cure.....I have 14k on the clock on my 12 GS and am wondering what the approximate mileage range is that this problem appears? Apparently covers the full run of the C6 model automatics? Almost seems like GM should be doing recall work on this!!

 

I don't think it is mileage, more of a time issue. I watched these threads for a long time and it looks like it is mostly happening to the older cars. My guess is heat is making the plastic bushing brittle over time. I saw a lot of 2005 and 2006 problems. I replaced my 2007 cable last year. My bushings were yellow but still in tact. I had about 32k on the car at the time.

 

I knew about the cable issue, but what is the pawl issue I have seem mentioned here?

 

If/when you start having trouble getting an A6 out of park, you can fix the problem for free by removing your console and either tying back or breaking off the plastic locking mechanism that fails to release, which keeps the shifter locked in park. Dealers will charge a few hundred dollars to replace the mechanism. Search 'shifter pawl' here and you will find a lot of instructions on this easy DIY

 

Hey HBsurfer,
Did you tie yours back or cut/break it off?

 

I tied mine back but only because I had not heard about just snapping it off when I did mine. Snapping it off makes an easy fix even easier.

 

My shift side grommet gave out a little over a year ago and I was able to replace it relatively easily by pulling the shift lever out. Might as well do the solenoid/shift lock mechanism hack while you have it apart. The hardest part for me and what took the longest was getting the shift **** off.

The transmission side grommet was another story. About a month ago, my trans-side grommet went out when moving my car out of the driveway. I got under the car and saw the problem right away. Went to the auto parts shop and got the required grommet that comes in the pack of 5 different sizes. I thought this side was going to be a lot easier than the shift side, but I was totally wrong (in my case anyway). For whatever reason, I could not get the grommet to pop into the transmission cable. Whereas the shift-side cable is metal where the grommet pops in, the transmission side was all old, brittle plastic. The more and more I tried to squeeze the grommet in, the more I felt I was tearing up the plastic part of the cable. In the end, I just bought a whole new cable ($35 on line) and was able to install it rather quickly.

Installing the cable means dropping the whole mid section of the exhaust and trans plate, but the silver lining here, was that it forced me to also put in my whole new (long tube headers, free flow cats and Borla mufflers) exhaust system I had sitting on the garage shelf for more than a year.

I'll throw a thread up with some pictures soon.

 

Snapping it off sounds like the way to go which is what I will do. I would love to actually remove and replace the cable but I'm CHICKEN! Guess I'll pay the stealer to do it. So far the best price I have been quoted is $420 complete which sucks but it is what it is.

I ran into some guys from a local Corvette club at a car show that told me of of a guy that works on only Corvettes. They said he does great work. I called him and he quoted me $200 plus parts. I have the cable. I scheduled it a couple of days before the Long Beach GP. Will report back the results as well as the condition of the old cable.