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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 11:18 AM
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Default Filter change c6 automatic

I don't know if this went through the last time I sent it, but here you go again. My deal told me st 50k the filter didn't need to be changed when he removes all the fluid. He told me it must be done at 100k. Can anyone shed any light on this topic?

Last edited by vcone1; Mar 11, 2017 at 11:20 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 11:33 AM
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If they are just doing the fluid flush without dropping the pan, then he is right. If they are doing a real trans service and dropping the pan you would be foolish NOT to change the filter as it's right there.

Whenever I bought an automatic car I always dropped the trans pan to change the fluid and, cut the filter apart to actually see what wear the trans was making. Sometimes I would find nothing and could have reused the filter. Other times I would cut the filter apart and find a ton of metal wear or bits and pieces of thrust washer whether metal or plastic.

If a trans is wearing correctly internally with correct endplay and nothing funny happening internally, a trans filter will stay fairly clean for a long, long time.

Free tip from a Transmission rebuilder, (me) of 45 years. NEVER, add any type of transmission additive in any type of auto transmission. Your trans DOESN'T need or want it. You have to be strong mentally and resist the advertising claims that the billion dollar companys make that this 'additive' somehow adds life to, or makes your trans work better. This is all snake oil propaganda that has made these individuals very wealthy. Be strong and don't fall for it.
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 11:38 AM
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2005 owner's manual (pages 6-6 and 6-8) says to change the fluid & filter at 50K if:

(h) Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
− In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
− Uses such as high performance operation.

otherwise, it should be changed at 100K.

It does include the filter in both cases when you make a fluid change.

Last edited by Vette_DD; Mar 11, 2017 at 11:39 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 11:44 AM
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I prefer the old fashion drop the pan and replace the filter VS. the trans flush and no filter change. Mixed reviews on the flush
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 06:16 PM
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Default Thank you very much

Originally Posted by J.Moore
If they are just doing the fluid flush without dropping the pan, then he is right. If they are doing a real trans service and dropping the pan you would be foolish NOT to change the filter as it's right there.

Whenever I bought an automatic car I always dropped the trans pan to change the fluid and, cut the filter apart to actually see what wear the trans was making. Sometimes I would find nothing and could have reused the filter. Other times I would cut the filter apart and find a ton of metal wear or bits and pieces of thrust washer whether metal or plastic.

If a trans is wearing correctly internally with correct endplay and nothing funny happening internally, a trans filter will stay fairly clean for a long, long time.

Free tip from a Transmission rebuilder, (me) of 45 years. NEVER, add any type of transmission additive in any type of auto transmission. Your trans DOESN'T need or want it. You have to be strong mentally and resist the advertising claims that the billion dollar companys make that this 'additive' somehow adds life to, or makes your trans work better. This is all snake oil propaganda that has made these individuals very wealthy. Be strong and don't fall for it.
thank you very much.
I Will sleep a lot better knowing that this won't hurt my baby. Thanks again
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 06:22 PM
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Default Thank you very much

Originally Posted by Vette_DD
2005 owner's manual (pages 6-6 and 6-8) says to change the fluid & filter at 50K if:

(h) Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
− In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
− Uses such as high performance operation.

otherwise, it should be changed at 100K.

It does include the filter in both cases when you make a fluid change.

I live in Florida only drive about 100 miles or less a week. Just wanted to make sure the dealer wasn't trying to get away from dropping the pan. :flag
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 06:32 PM
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he is correct, 100k is when you would change filter and other more services
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vcone1
I don't know if this went through the last time I sent it, but here you go again. My deal told me st 50k the filter didn't need to be changed when he removes all the fluid. He told me it must be done at 100k. Can anyone shed any light on this topic?
even at 100K, my dealer told me there was no need to change the filter..."It's just a plastic screen, and it gets completely cleaned with the flush".

So, I followed his recommendation. I am not anticipating any problems, but will surely speak up if I do.
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Old Mar 12, 2017 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by buckmeister2
even at 100K, my dealer told me there was no need to change the filter..."It's just a plastic screen, and it gets completely cleaned with the flush".

So, I followed his recommendation. I am not anticipating any problems, but will surely speak up if I do.
Not trying to start an argument but,
Your dealer is wrong. The filter is not just a plastic screen. It is a folded cloth type filter. Like a piece of bread folded in half only very thin. It traps any debris very well and once the 'trash' is embedded in the cloth it is not getting out. The flush cannot dis-lodge whatever is trapped in the cloth.

That's why we always use to cut the plastic filter shell open with snips or side cutters and then unfold the cloth to really see what it trapped.
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Old Mar 12, 2017 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by J.Moore
Not trying to start an argument but,
Your dealer is wrong. The filter is not just a plastic screen. It is a folded cloth type filter. Like a piece of bread folded in half only very thin. It traps any debris very well and once the 'trash' is embedded in the cloth it is not getting out. The flush cannot dis-lodge whatever is trapped in the cloth.

That's why we always use to cut the plastic filter shell open with snips or side cutters and then unfold the cloth to really see what it trapped.

The biggest problem with a "flush" is that any debris that didn't get trapped by the filter, but was stuck to other areas, now becomes free. Then you need to hope that the already used filter will trap the newly freed debris before it gets stuck in a place that causes new problems.

The filter and cooling system is not full flow, so junk can float around in there for a long time before going through the filter.
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 06:23 AM
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With me only driving 5k a year and the car is 12 years old what's anyone's thoughts on not doing the service if the car is running great,and no problem with the transmission.
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by buckmeister2
even at 100K, my dealer told me there was no need to change the filter..."It's just a plastic screen, and it gets completely cleaned with the flush".
This is so wrong it's not funny. Tell your dealer to put down the crack pipe he's been smoking.
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 07:28 PM
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For all you guys crackin' wise about the dealer, no pun intended, you get no argument from me. I avoid dealer service people as much as I can. If you have followed my other threads, you know that it is very possible the fluid AND the filter were recently changed, but could not be validated since I bought from a (different) dealer. Nonetheless, I went with the fluid flush, and will watch the temps closely. Thanks for your thoughts.

I am curious about your thoughts regarding ambient temps affect on the A6. I know for a lot of modern auto's, a guideline of ambient temp plus 120 is about what you should see for trans temp at normal op temps, in normal use. Does that seem right? Also, what do you feel is the safe upper limit for A6 trans temp operation?

I ask because, in Vegas, it can top 110 degrees pretty easy. Should I be expecting up to 230/240 for a trans temp? That seems scary high...

Jim
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 04:17 PM
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Hi guys,

For those who purchase online, where do you go to get the kit (oil filter, gasket, ...) for the oil change of the automatic transmission?

Thanks a lot,



Cedric
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 07:46 PM
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Rock Auto...rockauto.com. You can also get it all on ebay.
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 09:58 PM
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I want to thank everyone for all of the very helpful information. It's sure good to hear from owners and not Chevy service department. Thanks again to all my new family of corvette owners. ❤️������
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 10:53 PM
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I have debated doing this on my 07 with 77k miles - I might be the only one here not planning to do any kind of service on the transmission - unfortunately any car I have owned in the past where I did any kind of transmission service resulted in some kind of mechanical failure in the transmission. I know of folks that never do any transmission service and it outlasts the car itself.

Originally Posted by vcone1
With me only driving 5k a year and the car is 12 years old what's anyone's thoughts on not doing the service if the car is running great,and no problem with the transmission.
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Old Apr 4, 2017 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mad*Max
I have debated doing this on my 07 with 77k miles - I might be the only one here not planning to do any kind of service on the transmission - unfortunately any car I have owned in the past where I did any kind of transmission service resulted in some kind of mechanical failure in the transmission. I know of folks that never do any transmission service and it outlasts the car itself.
My hunch is that you either do it on a regular basis or you never do it. If you don't do it often, then when you do it, gunk gets moved around and it screws the gearbox.

Also, you could be in a situation were the person who performs the operation doesn't follow the procedure.

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