Quick background;

New user, long time lurker and reader of the Corvetteforum. I grew up owning and working on GM products both gas and diesel. I consider myself a competent mechanic with a home garage to work on my vehicles. Not a fan of going to the dealership by any means. I now have the means to purchase my dream car C6 Corvette and after a few weeks of test drives and negotiations I have a few questions regarding 2005 Base C6's on the used car market.

I have come across a nicely optioned 1 owner 2005 Z51 6 Speed C6 within my budget and before I go check it out I have a few questions.

Here is my Vette buyers checklist, is there anything I am missing or overlooking?

- Check Harmonic Balancer wobble/squeaks
- Oil Pan seeping/leakage
- Cracked / Damaged Radiator lower supports
- Strong Fuel smell, driver side fuel tank/ fuel pump
- Rattling or drivetrain noises at idle / possible torque tube
- Faulty door handles
- Faulty key fob
- Service Active Handling
- Service column lock
- Chattering rear end

Lastly I'm buying this car as a summer time DD, no plans of any power adders other than headers/exhaust, CAI during the first year of ownership. How concerned should I be about the weaker rear diff found in 2005 Corvettes? I don't drag race, but an occasional burnout is fair game. I have read numerous threads on doing the C5Z diff swap but no clear indication on who sells the mounting bracket as of today (April 2017). Where can I order this bracket?

There also seems to be a mixture of opinions when it comes to the 2005 and 2006 C6 diff being interchangeable.

Can anyone with some past experience clear these questions up for me?

Much appreciated

- Cam

 

I would not be worried about the rear diff if your just going to drive it normally with occasional "spirited" driving. Your fine.

 

You don't mention miles but for what it's worth I just had a bunch of maintenance done on my '05 A4 Z51 (31K miles). I wanted the differential fluid changed, mechanic showed me where the diff was leaking from the seals due to them "probably" drying up and cracking, again PROBABLY caused by low mileage. He only added about half a quart of fluid and I came back 2 weeks later and he replaced all 5 seals and the fluid, all good now. Get under the rear and look around with a light, you can see the seepage on the rear end. I never saw any leaks on the garage floor but oil seepage/sweat was very evident when I looked under the car. Good Luck!

 

Thanks for the prompt reply, this particular C6 has roughly 80k miles.

I will be sure to inspect the car thoroughly on the lift at the dealers service dept.

 

So your car averaged roughly 6700 miles a year, not exactly low mileage for a Vette so I'm pretty sure you'll be fine. Won't hurt to check anyway. And as for the rear end, I don't track but I do enjoy the occasional "spirited" sprint (that's what we buy Vette's for right!), I think you'll be fine with the rear end. From what I read here the rear ends will pretty much withstand anything short of constant hole shots, I wouldn't be too worried about changing anything out just yet. Looking at your list above I've dealt with-

1.-replaced with an ATI just because I'm not a gambler
2.-VERY slight seepage, not an issue at this time, no oil loss
3.-non-issue
4.-non-issue
5.-non-issue
6.-ordered new handles and replaced, very easy and inexpensive
7.-non-issue
8.-non-issue
9.-N/A
10.-non issue

 

I just purchased a 2005 Z51 with 108k on it. The one thing I knew going in and was very prepared for was that the car could need some attention one way or another. It is a two owner car I was buying from a dealer so no telling what all I was getting into. Changes are you are going to have to address at least a couple of the items on that list sometime in the near future so be ready.

1: If the GM balancer is on there it is going to have to be replaced no matter if there is currently a wobble or not, there will be at some point. If you have the cash to fix it soon then I wouldn't worry about this much.
2: My guess is that it is seeping at the miles it has. If it is light then no worries. If no seeping then the owner is smarter than most and took care of it.
3: Easy fix if needed. If is is broken it is a good place to haggle on. $360 for the part. It a weld is cracked then it can just be rewelded for cheap. Mine is jacked from the previous owner(s) and is getting replaced soon.
4: Expensive fix. So make sure this isn't an issue.
5: Probably not an issue unless the car was abused.
6: Easy fix if needed. Mine are fineky at times but nothing to worry about.
7: Easy fix if needed.
8: Easy fix if needed.
9: No worries here really.
10: If it has it pretty easy fix, just some nice new correct fluid.

 

This isn't necessarily true. Not every balancer goes bad.

 

Very quick and informative responses.

I have an appointment to look at the car on Saturday morning.

I will update my post with the findings.

Thank you all.

 

I have 05, 60,000 miles driven, runs strong and great, owned it for many years, truly love the car.

Here is some reading material for you, Owners manual.

http://www.c6registry.com/Technical/manuals/2005OM.pdf

 

I will add just be sure the climate control works as it should, as this could be a real pita to repair as the dash would need to come out.

 

You are going to have a ton of fun with a new summer Vette....behave and wave....

 

 

My 05 is still running great at 80K. I had an alternator go out, but other than tires, everything else is fine. Still running stock rotors!

 

be sure to check the inner tire tread on the fronts the tread you can see is very misleading and wires could be showing if you look to the inner wheel tread

 

Just to back onto the above post, turn both heat and then a/c on to see that they both work well--either one not working well is a pain, or an expensive pain. Know that tires will be anywhere fr. $800-$1600 for a set so ck those tread depths carefully.

If you ask me, and in a way you did, at 2005 the car is way past 10 years old. If it were me, I'd be ready to, and do all fluid changes--trans, clutch, rear, PS, PB, and especially, coolant. Since you have both your own tools/garage and been on here lurking, you know all about the fluids to use, the updated fluids from GM, how to purge coolant, etc.

Just as a backup to your knowing what has happened in the past to this car, you can go to any GM service dept. (does not have to be Chev) and ask via the vin number for the VIS (Vehicle Inquiry System) which is proprietary and nowhere else. It will tell you warranty work, tsb's done to the car, etc. It is not a complete service record, however.

Please come back and tell us how it went and what you saw. Pics would be nice, too----we are picture hounds! Good luck.

 

Good list OP.


110K LOVELY MILES ON MINE! I WOULD DO IT AGAIN

 

That's a scary list. I think I'd hold out for a newer model with less sues to look for and worry about. The 08 with the LS3 is a much improved car.

 

Traded an 05 coupe in on the Z06. Loved that car. Wish I could have kept it. 76k miles and absolutely no problems whatsoever. For what you are going to do with the car, I would not have any problems buying an 05 at all. Differential problems only happen if you get over about 700 hp, or if doing a burnout, you get wheel hop. Good luck.

 

Update;

I spent most of the day at the dealership thoroughly inspecting the car and negotiating a price with the finance manager.

During my initial inspection I found the DIC controls to the left side of the steering wheel non functioning. The set of controls to the right of the steering wheel all worked with a notable chime when pressed. No matter what I did the left buttons gave me no response.

Is there something simple I am missing here?

If infact they are truly malfunctioning what all is involved in fixing the controls.

Thanks

- Cam