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I see 189-194 coolant temps most the time, depending on rpm and flatness of the traveled road. This would be on flat highhway. I do have a 4:10 diff so my rpm's are some 300 rpm higher than standard in same gear, usually.
On the freeway at say 70 mph I will see 192* at 75 mph or 1950 rpm I will se 189*.
ON a warm day say 95* in stop and go traffic it climbs to 203*. Never seen higher than 205* and that was in Vegas when it was 115* out and in stopped traffic.
BTW I believe the stock stat is 189*. Corrected my if I am wrong.
2008 C6
Stock T-stat is 187*.
What were you temps with the stock T-stat on highway and in traffic?
Humm going back 8 years now trying to remember. I only had the 187*state in for maybe a year max. Went to 160* and after a few years changed out to the 180*
The 160 was just to cool during the winter. Coolant never really got past 172* Hard to get above 168 in Winter.
Best guess they where 198- 200 normally with stock stat.
In traffic I do not think that the coolant really got much hotter than now.
I put the gear change in after maybe a 18 months of owning the car, the rpm does influence the water pump.
Anyone know where to find a 180 Thermostat for a 2010? Seems the LS2 and LS3 thermostats aren't compatible but some websites list them as so. I've heard an ls2 will leak if put into an ls3.
Anyone know where to find a 180 Thermostat for a 2010? Seems the LS2 and LS3 thermostats aren't compatible but some websites list them as so. I've heard an ls2 will leak if put into an ls3.
Yes - An LS2 tstat has a smaller diameter flange. I think the LS3 is 2.200" dia flange; the LS2 is a 2.110" flange. LS2 looks "almost" like it will fit, and can seem like it with the gasket...but no.
I think you can find a 180* LS3 Tstat on Rockauto.
Yes - An LS2 tstat has a smaller diameter flange. I think the LS3 is 2.200" dia flange; the LS2 is a 2.110" flange. LS2 looks "almost" like it will fit, and can seem like it with the gasket...but no.
I think you can find a 180* LS3 Tstat on Rockauto.
Can you confirm the change happened between the LS2 and LS3?
The reason I ask, is that water pumps changed on all models from '08's to '09's to accommodate the blower drive on the ZR1. Logically, GM wouldn't make a water pump casting change, simply for a slightly different t-stat size.
My go-to site for parts, lists the '07 and '08 with a 12600171 pn and the '09 as pn 89018168.
I bought my 160 t-stat in early '08, so I had no reason to check for a diameter change at that time.
I washed my car yesterday and was looking to do this, how exactly would you do it? Can you go through the front grill area and just shoot a stream of water into there from the outside or should you remove the air cleaner assembly and shoot water out from the engine compartment? Thanks...
Originally Posted by Unreal
Remove the shrouding and everything in front, and take a high pressure sprayer and clean it out. Some people have even built little 90 degree angle adapters to clean it.
Personally, I just remove it. Take it to local shop, they evacuate the freon, I pull the condenser out, scrub/clean it, reinstall, and then they refill it.
If it is dirty enough or beat up enough, they are ~$140-150 on amazon, just replace it. Its 2 bolts and pops right out. Just need to deal with the freon part, so if you don't have a buddy, that can cost a few dollars.
Originally Posted by RobLo
Thank for the info, not sure if I want to remove it, I'll nose around underneath and see what it looks like and then make a decision...
Here's an easy to make wand that several people use. There are slightly different versions, so build whatever suits you.
I made mine using a 3/8" dia copper tube about 30" long. I drilled two 1/8" holes near the end and crimped it shut. The other end has a fitting to screw onto a hose pistol style nozzle with external threads.
I take off the air filter housing and the radiator/condenser upper crossmember. (4 bolts 10 mm socket) I first spray the condenser from the back, then slip in a piece of cardboard between the two and spray the radiator from the back. That keeps crap from the radiator getting in the backside of the condenser.
Here's an easy to make wand that several people use. There are slightly different versions, so build whatever suits you.
I made mine using a 3/8" dia copper tube about 30" long. I drilled two 1/8" holes near the end and crimped it shut. The other end has a fitting to screw onto a hose pistol style nozzle with external threads.
I take off the air filter housing and the radiator/condenser upper crossmember. (4 bolts 10 mm socket) I first spray the condenser from the back, then slip in a piece of cardboard between the two and spray the radiator from the back. That keeps crap from the radiator getting in the backside of the condenser.
yeah, Stant's a good brand. They've been around forever, if they haven't gotten it right by now...
And while you're there get a Stant gas cap too, after having 2 replaced by the dealer (under warranty) I bit the bullet and bought a Stant, no problems now in over 5 years!
Having the stock water pump and thermo (186*, 187*?) I always ran highway 192*, traffic/stop-n-go up to 212*, never overheating. I had the hoses, coolant and water pump replaced about 6 months ago, immediately noticed highway temp up to 198*-199* and traffic UP TO 216*, still never an overheat or warning. I'm thinking the new thermo in the new water pump might be a 195* thermo, it was assembled when I got it so I never looked at it. No big deal so far, as long as it doesn't overheat I'm gonna leave it be. I'll see what happens this summer, sometimes I think the DIC with all it's info is more of a hindrance then a help ...
I just bought my first vette, a 2011 GS, A6. it's everything I expected and more. I live in the Phoenix area, and today, it's 86 degrees out this morning. The running temps today are as follows:
Engine Oli: 219
Coolant: 207
Transmission Oli: 194
I stomped on it a couple times coming home from breakfast.
Are these temps normal, and will they go up when it's 110 outside ? All fluids were just changed. The car has 42,000 miles on the odometer. I appreciate any input.
After driving the GS for a month, the Trans temps are up to 207* at times. What is the safe temp range for the Transmission fluid ?
Last edited by SIGSRIG; 05-27-2017 at 03:28 PM.
Reason: number change
After driving the GS for a month, the Trans temps are up to 207* at times. What is the safe temp range for the Transmission fluid ?
For the longest life, trans fluid temps at 175 +/- 15 degrees work best. Occasional temps into the lower 200's won't kill anything, but you're better off under 200 for the long term. I've seen 240's for brief periods, but it's been limited to mere minutes.
So, today here in Vegas, it was 115. I saw the following temps while stuck on freeway, bumper to bumper...oil, 244...trans, 219...coolant, 225. It was like that for about 15 minutes, then each dropped abut 5 degrees for the next 20 minutes, then dropped more on the way home.
So, today here in Vegas, it was 115. I saw the following temps while stuck on freeway, bumper to bumper...oil, 244...trans, 219...coolant, 225. It was like that for about 15 minutes, then each dropped abut 5 degrees for the next 20 minutes, then dropped more on the way home.
Thoughts?
Seems warm. I haven't been able to get a definite range of safe temps from anyone on the trans fluid. Van Chevrolet in Scottsdale wouldn't even respond. I'm planning on flushing the radiator fins out to clear any debris that may have accumulated over the last couple of years. I have to wait until it's a bit cooler here in Phoenix, it was 116 today.
St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10-'11-'12-'13 '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19
Originally Posted by buckmeister2
So, today here in Vegas, it was 115. I saw the following temps while stuck on freeway, bumper to bumper...oil, 244...trans, 219...coolant, 225. It was like that for about 15 minutes, then each dropped abut 5 degrees for the next 20 minutes, then dropped more on the way home.
Thoughts?
In Tucson today at 110℉ I saw 235-oil, and about 210-coolant and 205-trans. This while running down the freeway at 75 mph. So not to different from yours but I am curious also.
So, today here in Vegas, it was 115. I saw the following temps while stuck on freeway, bumper to bumper...oil, 244...trans, 219...coolant, 225. It was like that for about 15 minutes, then each dropped abut 5 degrees for the next 20 minutes, then dropped more on the way home.
Thoughts?
Completely normal operation, depending on your thermostat and ambient air temp and speed, the temp will fluctuate like that. The system is designed such that the engine oil can track 20 degrees of coolant temp unless you are on a racetrack.
I installed a larger radiator because I'm a track-rat. My system can cool to the point of the opening threshold on the thermostat while street driving in the summer months.
Again I defer to the thermometer and Havasu wins as my gauge actually was pegged
Having said that my GS didn't see the outside, I'm not that cruel he stayed in the cool of the garage, which was about 95'
God its HOT 123' by local accounts.
NSF
So, today here in Vegas, it was 115. I saw the following temps while stuck on freeway, bumper to bumper...oil, 244...trans, 219...coolant, 225. It was like that for about 15 minutes, then each dropped abut 5 degrees for the next 20 minutes, then dropped more on the way home.
Thoughts?
I was stuck in traffic here too today for about 20 minutes midday. Coolant went to 208. I didn't check the others. Once I got moving it dropped to 200.
05-26-2017, 10:48 AM
he stayed in the cool of the garage, which was about 95' 
123' by local accounts.
