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Old Jul 24, 2017 | 05:20 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Fatpaulie
so far no problem, no sensors messing up, no rubbing, nothing...fronts are 245-40-19... rears are 285-35-19...
Is that no rubbing, no problems so far?

Or is it that you've thoroughly tested* it and you know it won't rub or cause problems under any circumstances?

It would suck to discover by driving it that something sharp rubs the inner sidewall of the tire on the loaded side (outside of the curve) with more than half lock in the steering when it hits a bump.

* Thoroughly tested defined: When I've made changes like this to a race car (any kind of race car), I remove the coil spring from the suspension, put it high enough on jack stands for the wheel to droop as far as the suspension allows, then spin the wheel and check for rubbing as a helper moves the steering from full lock from one side to the other. With the wheel still spinning, have a helper keep going back and forth with the steering wheel as you slowly lift the suspension with a jack and push it all the way up until you hit the bump stops (or chassis if there are no bump stops). If it never rubs, and it never gets close enough that tire sidewall deformity from load could make the tire rub, then it's safe enough.

Even with that testing, I've had problems with mods on a rear suspension because I failed to notice that something hit metal on metal (this was a road course race car with no bump stops) about 3/8ths of an inch before it would have before the mod. That car had an evil "snap spin" issue for a several race weekends before we finally discovered that there was insufficient clearance and the loaded side went metal to metal against the chassis (infinite spring stiffness), causing it to spin wildly and unpredictably in extreme cornering in one direction only.

I also don't know how all the electronics will like your changes. The active handling might do something less than helpful if you get into an "active handling event" with your new setup that is different from the factory arrangement.
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Old Jul 25, 2017 | 12:09 PM
  #22  
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I've called gm, they said that the computer won't even know the difference, active handling won't be affected, diameter being different from factory makes no difference when changing front, back they said it would, cause of the gears, trans, and speedo, but front just free roles. As far as testing, it's a day to day thing, no rubbing lock to lock in drive way, no rubbing with tire hanging down when on a jack, as far as rubbing when compressed, so far nothing that I can see...
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Old Jul 25, 2017 | 02:03 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Fatpaulie
I've called gm, they said that the computer won't even know the difference, active handling won't be affected, diameter being different from factory makes no difference when changing front, back they said it would, cause of the gears, trans, and speedo, but front just free roles. As far as testing, it's a day to day thing, no rubbing lock to lock in drive way, no rubbing with tire hanging down when on a jack, as far as rubbing when compressed, so far nothing that I can see...
So other than you just disliking having different size wheels, what benefit did you gain buy putting 19" wheels on the front?

You still can't rotate the tires from front to back, you're out the cost of the two 19" wheels and two tires that you put on the front, so you didn't save any money?

But in the end, it's your car and money so you get to do what you want. Best of luck to you, hopefully it doesn't cause more problems in the long run.
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Old Jul 25, 2017 | 02:41 PM
  #24  
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I did save money, had the tires given to me from my brother, I can rotate them side to side front to back there not directional, and since there the same circumference the cars electronics won't know the difference, and now I can buy just 19 inch tires, as far as spending money on the 2 19 inch rims, I got them for 180 bucks so not out to much...
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