Help! No Reverse!
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Help! No Reverse!
Suddenly, yesterday after out cruising around my reverse suddenly quit working. When i shift into reverse, it feels like the gears aren't completely engaging. When i let off the clutch in reverse, it pops out of gear and makes a terrible grinding noise. All other gears shift fine. The car is a 2010 grand sport couple 6 speed manual with 67k miles on it. Earlier in the day reverse worked fine, then suddenly when i returned home to back in the driveway suddenly it doesn't work. Could the linkage be misaligned somehow? Doesn't seem like it would be a clutch issue since the other gears shift fine and clutch is working. I am hoping this isn't going to require a complete trans rebuild...
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,352
Likes: 568
From: Ventura County, Calif
Agree with above as one possibility. Here are a couple others.
Since it's easy to do, I suggest checking the Reverse Lockout Solenoid fuse in the engine compartment. It's #13, 25 amp. Frankly I don't know if a blown fuse would cause your symptoms but like I said it's easy to check.
If that's okay then it could be the Reverse Lockout Solenoid and here is a thread on DIY replacement:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-solenoid.html
Since it's easy to do, I suggest checking the Reverse Lockout Solenoid fuse in the engine compartment. It's #13, 25 amp. Frankly I don't know if a blown fuse would cause your symptoms but like I said it's easy to check.
If that's okay then it could be the Reverse Lockout Solenoid and here is a thread on DIY replacement:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-solenoid.html
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Agree with above as one possibility. Here are a couple others.
Since it's easy to do, I suggest checking the Reverse Lockout Solenoid fuse in the engine compartment. It's #13, 25 amp. Frankly I don't know if a blown fuse would cause your symptoms but like I said it's easy to check.
If that's okay then it could be the Reverse Lockout Solenoid and here is a thread on DIY replacement:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-solenoid.html
Since it's easy to do, I suggest checking the Reverse Lockout Solenoid fuse in the engine compartment. It's #13, 25 amp. Frankly I don't know if a blown fuse would cause your symptoms but like I said it's easy to check.
If that's okay then it could be the Reverse Lockout Solenoid and here is a thread on DIY replacement:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-solenoid.html
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,684
Likes: 107
From: Opelika Alabama
My 06 MN6 LS2 about six months after I bought it, Same thing goes forward just fine but will not go into reverse. it's not the lock out, there is some kind of "pin" on top {inside} the tranny, it moves or breaks and it WILL NOT go into reverse, My dealership did not want their guy "rebuilding" the tranny so GM put an 07 tranny in, it doesn't have to be "rebuilt" but it is going to have to come out.
Last edited by CMY SIX; Aug 14, 2017 at 01:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
My 06 MN6 LS2 about six months after I bought it, Same thing goes forward just fine but will not go into reverse. it's not the lock out, there is some kind of "pin" on top {inside} the tranny, it moves or breaks and it WILL NOT go into reverse, My dealership did not want their guy "rebuilding" the tranny so GM put an 07 tranny in, it doesn't have to be "rebuilt" but it is going to have to come out.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
pulled the console out this evening and checked the linkage. Adjusted per the "froggy method" and no change in reverse. I'll check the lockout solenoid as a last ditch effort but i'm pretty sure the trans is f*****. It begins to roll if I let the clutch out very slowly, but as soon as it meets some resistance, grinds in the worst way. Acts like it's just barely engaging, i'm guessing there is probably a mess inside there.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,211
Likes: 237
From: Indianapolis IN
pulled the console out this evening and checked the linkage. Adjusted per the "froggy method" and no change in reverse. I'll check the lockout solenoid as a last ditch effort but i'm pretty sure the trans is f*****. It begins to roll if I let the clutch out very slowly, but as soon as it meets some resistance, grinds in the worst way. Acts like it's just barely engaging, i'm guessing there is probably a mess inside there.
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Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 4,128
Likes: 616
From: St Louis Area IL
It's usually a sign your clutch is worn, the hydraulic cylinder is bad, or you need to change the hydraulic fluid for the clutch. You usually will start having grinding going into reverse when the clutch isn't working properly. Maybe something to do with no syncro's on the reverse gear? Not sure.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Finally had a chance to get the car up in the air tonight. Drained the trans fluid, looks and smells perfect. Didn't see any metal shavings or chunks of anything in the fluid. I guess i'll look at the clutch hydraulic fluid next and see if that makes a difference. I may also check out the reverse lockout solenoid and see if that is acting up. Really hoping i don't have to pull this thing out.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Pulled the trans and dropped it off at D&D performance last week. Apparently the reverse gear and synchro were toast along with a bent shift fork and fork pads destroyed. No idea how this all happened. They also said 5th gear showed signs of grinding and it will need to be replaced as well. They suggested it could be a clutch issue that caused this to happen. My next question is, what other "while i'm in there" items are there I should take care of while i have this thing all apart?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,211
Likes: 237
From: Indianapolis IN
That would depend on your goals? Are you staying stock power? Are you looking to race the car?
I would only replace what actually failed if it were mine and it were stock or close to stock.
I would only replace what actually failed if it were mine and it were stock or close to stock.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Yeah car is stock, i'd like to take it to some autocross events in the future. Maybe 1 or 2 a year. Car is a lot of fun just how it is, so don't really plan on modifying it. Just wondering about the clutch, it has 68k on it now and i figure it would be easier to do while i'm in there. Clutch seems to operate fine but i don't want to have to pull all this apart to do it in the future if needed.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,211
Likes: 237
From: Indianapolis IN
Yeah car is stock, i'd like to take it to some autocross events in the future. Maybe 1 or 2 a year. Car is a lot of fun just how it is, so don't really plan on modifying it. Just wondering about the clutch, it has 68k on it now and i figure it would be easier to do while i'm in there. Clutch seems to operate fine but i don't want to have to pull all this apart to do it in the future if needed.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,461
Likes: 1,149
From: Wayne Township WI
With internals repaired a new clutch/disc means care free miles for minimally another 70K.
Installing a remote bleeder now's also is a smart move.
