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I would do again...but only for MY car...no "helping a buddy out" or for extra cash.
I figure i could probably do a second time in 5-6 hours. One, because I learned from the first time and, two, because I wouldn't need to remove water pump, ps pump/hose and belt pulleys.
My hats off to ya... way out of my league, I would also be worried about torquing that bolt on the balancer down tight enough.
Torquing the bolt down is really not that bad when you follow the recommended torque specs given the bolt selection.
Heck, we have a whole platoon of Internet Alley Mechanics here on CF that would say it's no big deal to even worry about torquing it. In fact, here is a recommendation by one of them:
QUOTE:
"I took my shock HB off with an 1/2 impact and on the advice of a well known shop who I won't identify. I reinstalled it with an ARP bolt and the same impact, after seating it with a HB installation tool, I then took an offset 12 point box end wrench{with on end cut off} and a piece of pipe, just for good measure."
The Chevy dealer just recently did my ballancer. It cost slightly more than 1000 dollars.
I really wanted to do it myself but came to realize that certain lifting devices can turn the job into a rather simple situation. The Dealer simply held the engine up in place and lowered the suspension cradle to get clearance to take the ballancer off.
I simply didnt have the lifting equipment.........
Thank you for the write-up....and thank heavens for the professional mechanics I will take my car to, if and/or when the need ever arises. I could never do what you just did. God bless you.
I have a 2007 Z51 convertible that I just finished replacing the harmonic balancer on. I decided to replace it myself and use the offset savings to purchase a quick jack. With these instructions and after watching most of the youtube videos I was able to replace it. The quickjack made my life easier and I felt confident while working under the car. Although most of the videos show the steering rack being removed on the drivers side, I decided to move it over to the passenger side and work around it as these instructions said and it worked out great. I found the steering rack and installing and removing the power steering pump the most difficult parts of the job. I suggest taking your time and make sure you have all the tools you need in advance. The crows foot 18mm ratchet attachment was very helpful in a few instances. I decided to purchase the summit c2501 sfi rated harmonic balancer for my replacement along with the ARP bolt. This balancer has great reviews and feels and looks like its a great quality unit. Don't forget to order and replace the front main seal ($10) while doing this job! I am attaching a few photos from the job for reference.
Yeah, no question you learn quickly on the HB RR. I stopped removing the steering rack after the first one. Many of the other components you mentioned do not get removed, but I understand you were making other replacements at the same time which is smart.
how did you remove/install the hb without removing the rack,lift engine??
Just finished mine. I dropped the front cradle right off the car with PS rack attached. I ended up draining and disconnecting my PS return line (cooler was pretty banged up) and PS pressure line (TSB with a new revised line). I bought new hoses to replace both lines.
In the picture above, what do you have the car sitting on?? Floor jack holding the motor but what's holding the vehicle?? Lot of guys talk about just moving the cradle a bit without totally removing it, although I'm sure with it completely out of the way it makes everything easier. How big a job to completely remove it?? Another question is how do you know when you need to replace the HB?? Any mileage guide or is it a vibration issue??
In the picture above, what do you have the car sitting on?? Floor jack holding the motor but what's holding the vehicle?? Lot of guys talk about just moving the cradle a bit without totally removing it, although I'm sure with it completely out of the way it makes everything easier. How big a job to completely remove it?? Another question is how do you know when you need to replace the HB?? Any mileage guide or is it a vibration issue??
My car started with a squeaking sound coming from the engine bay. It was only a slight squeak and rhythmic like it was something to do with the lifters. As I was trying to narrow that down (probably 6wks-2mos), I had one night where I drove the car rather aggressively and took the RPMs all the way to 7,000. (Which I never do......the car makes plenty of power shifting at 6k). The serpentine belt started squealing at anything over 2,000 RPMs. I limped home as I was only about 3 miles from home. The belt was new, so I suspected one of the pulleys was sticking. I took off the alternator and the pulley from the alternator was slightly bent. I really thought I found my culprit, but after a new alternator it still had the problem. It dawned on me that it might be the HB. I shined a flashlight down on the HB and the death wobble was fairly evident. I called a local shop and after hearing the above story, they said they were almost certain it was the HB. Replaced with ATI and ARP bolt and the car seemingly makes more power than the couple months before replacement......more than any time once I started hearing the squeak.
In the picture above, what do you have the car sitting on?? Floor jack holding the motor but what's holding the vehicle?? Lot of guys talk about just moving the cradle a bit without totally removing it, although I'm sure with it completely out of the way it makes everything easier. How big a job to completely remove it?? Another question is how do you know when you need to replace the HB?? Any mileage guide or is it a vibration issue??
If you look at the picture where the pucks are there are jackstands there. Car is about 21" on 4 jackstands. Engine is supported with out any issue by the jack with 2 sets of 2x6 across the whole length of the oil pan and bell housing.
For me, I just bought the car and was replacing the clutch to a more street friendly one (Monster LT-S Dual). The scope of disassembly involved with the clutch caused me to find a few items that also needed to be replaced, such as drive shafts, ball joints and outer tie rod ends. I descided since i was literaly taking the car 3/4 apart to just do a few other things that were short money and could be a problem in the future. Since i dropped the front cradle anyway to be able to get at the top clutch bell housing bolt I figured I would do the harmonic balancer. I also upgraded to a Dewitts radiator and replaced all my coolant hoses and PS hoses (return and pressure line). I figured it was much easier to do all that with the cradle dropped and moved away, which it was.
Great write ups and pictures. Here's a question, my '05 has only 35K on it. How long should the factory HB last and what are the "symptoms" to determine it needs replacement? Do they all eventually fail??
Great write ups and pictures. Here's a question, my '05 has only 35K on it. How long should the factory HB last and what are the "symptoms" to determine it needs replacement? Do they all eventually fail??
It seems they fail at all different mileage. Some only a few thousand and some make it 10’s of thousands but it is a common failure point.
normally you will hear a squeak when running cold and you will see the movement of the balancer. You’ll see it’s wobbling and not running true. There are many videos on youtube showing bad balancers and replacement process. Take a look on there and see if it helps as well.
Excellent write up! It makes me feel not ready for this just yet though - mainly lack of hardware (just moved to TN and sold some things before we left AZ, plus my jack I had for my C5 was damaged from the move).
OK...here's another question. Looking at dampers on Summit site, the ATI is around $400 while Summit sells their brand for about half of that. Any reason to spend the difference for a car that is never going to be raced? Any others I should be considering?? Thanks!!
OK...here's another question. Looking at dampers on Summit site, the ATI is around $400 while Summit sells their brand for about half of that. Any reason to spend the difference for a car that is never going to be raced? Any others I should be considering?? Thanks!!
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
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