View Poll Results: Winter Storage Oil Change Time?
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Winter Oil Change Question?
10-23-2017, 05:39 PM
#41
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People talk about contaminants and such as if they will grow and get worse if you let your car sit for a few months. People. This is oil. Synthetic oil. Contaminants don't just come out of nowhere. Our cars sit WAY more than they are running, so why would anyone think it matters if it's a few weeks or a few months? Good grief. These debates never cease to amaze me. Synthetic oil doesn't go bad after a few weeks. Or months. Change it whenever the heck you want, it literally makes zero difference.
Yep, well said
10-23-2017, 05:41 PM
#42
Intermediate
10-23-2017, 05:49 PM
#43
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I am like you SAPLUMR, I am in the same boat. I do not get enough mileage to say it is "Time" to change it based on miles, but they also say to change it every so many months and or so many miles. So as far as miles, no it is not time, as far as time, yes it would be time. I usually change it once or twice a year based mainly on the time that has passed because I do not put maybe 1000 to 2000 miles if that a year. It may be closer to 500 miles to be honest. Sadly my insurance is still the same as my daily car, both are at the lowest mileage but I do not even drive that much.
I agree with the comment about the water and contaminants from driving it over the warmer weather and all that sitting in the engine. Any moisture or condensation from driving and cooling in the oil can damage it especially as it sits for a period of time.
Then again, if the engine attracts moisture during the storage time or from starting it and letting it cool during storage to keep it lubricated can also cause a problem if you start it up at the beginning of the season and you do not change it again.
I guess the best answer is both, change it prior to storage and change it prior to driving season but financially that seems a bit much. I may ask Mobil 1 and see what they suggest, I will pass it along to you guys also.
But as I said, any tips, advice and suggestions are appreciated.
I agree with the comment about the water and contaminants from driving it over the warmer weather and all that sitting in the engine. Any moisture or condensation from driving and cooling in the oil can damage it especially as it sits for a period of time.
Then again, if the engine attracts moisture during the storage time or from starting it and letting it cool during storage to keep it lubricated can also cause a problem if you start it up at the beginning of the season and you do not change it again.
I guess the best answer is both, change it prior to storage and change it prior to driving season but financially that seems a bit much. I may ask Mobil 1 and see what they suggest, I will pass it along to you guys also.
But as I said, any tips, advice and suggestions are appreciated.
10-23-2017, 05:57 PM
#44
Drifting
Not quite sure what you mean by that, but by most definitions, it is not true. Synthetics must meet one of two definitions. The original one was that it comes from molecules which have been broken way down into tiny molecules, and then rebuilt synthetically. So that is obviously different from dino oil. After the infamous lawsuit, it became legal to call synthetic an oil that started out as dino, and had met certain severe processing criteria. In engineering terms, that basically means hydrocracked, which in turn means subjected to a catalytic environment with hydrogen present at over 2500 psi pressure. Yes, it’s cheaper to make via that route than the original definition, but it’s way more expensive than dino oil, and if you judge by the resulting physical properties, it behaves like about 90% original synthetic and 10% dino oil. So the courts allowed it to be called synthetic. Today, there are no oils, not even the high priced ones like Redline, Gibbs, Amsoil, etc, are 100% the original synthetic definition. But anything that is labeled full synthetic is substantially different from dino oil in properties, so calling it the same is by most definitions, not correct. The most important single difference is that anything labeled full synthetic will have a high enough VI that you can make a 25 spread oil (like 5W30) without VI improver additive. Dino oil has zero spread, so if you want to make even a 25W30 oil from dino oil, you’d need VI improver additive.
10-23-2017, 06:35 PM
#46
Not quite sure what you mean by that, but by most definitions, it is not true. Synthetics must meet one of two definitions. The original one was that it comes from molecules which have been broken way down into tiny molecules, and then rebuilt synthetically. So that is obviously different from dino oil. After the infamous lawsuit, it became legal to call synthetic an oil that started out as dino, and had met certain severe processing criteria. In engineering terms, that basically means hydrocracked, which in turn means subjected to a catalytic environment with hydrogen present at over 2500 psi pressure. Yes, it’s cheaper to make via that route than the original definition, but it’s way more expensive than dino oil, and if you judge by the resulting physical properties, it behaves like about 90% original synthetic and 10% dino oil. So the courts allowed it to be called synthetic. Today, there are no oils, not even the high priced ones like Redline, Gibbs, Amsoil, etc, are 100% the original synthetic definition. But anything that is labeled full synthetic is substantially different from dino oil in properties, so calling it the same is by most definitions, not correct. The most important single difference is that anything labeled full synthetic will have a high enough VI that you can make a 25 spread oil (like 5W30) without VI improver additive. Dino oil has zero spread, so if you want to make even a 25W30 oil from dino oil, you’d need VI improver additive.
Both types of engine oil are made from crude oil that comes from the ground. The difference is that synthetic motor oils are made from more advanced refining processes and are of a higher purity and quality than conventional mineral oils or semi-synthetic oils. This not only removes more impurities from the crude oil, it enables individual molecules in the oil to be tailored to the demands of modern engines. These customized molecules provide higher levels of protection and performance, even in extreme conditions.
10-23-2017, 07:33 PM
#47
Drifting
this is what I mean by that.
Both types of engine oil are made from crude oil that comes from the ground. The difference is that synthetic motor oils are made from more advanced refining processes and are of a higher purity and quality than conventional mineral oils or semi-synthetic oils. This not only removes more impurities from the crude oil, it enables individual molecules in the oil to be tailored to the demands of modern engines. These customized molecules provide higher levels of protection and performance, even in extreme conditions.
Both types of engine oil are made from crude oil that comes from the ground. The difference is that synthetic motor oils are made from more advanced refining processes and are of a higher purity and quality than conventional mineral oils or semi-synthetic oils. This not only removes more impurities from the crude oil, it enables individual molecules in the oil to be tailored to the demands of modern engines. These customized molecules provide higher levels of protection and performance, even in extreme conditions.
10-24-2017, 12:19 PM
#49
Why would
unless you live in a state where the temperature drops below Zero all winter, I am trying to understand why anyone would store their car for the winter. I
I live in NY where the winter can get pretty cold but we do have some thirty and and sometimes forty degree days. I try to use my car as often as possible During the winter barring any now or salted roads. I guess if you live in a state where it always snows or freezes I can understand.
I live in NY where the winter can get pretty cold but we do have some thirty and and sometimes forty degree days. I try to use my car as often as possible During the winter barring any now or salted roads. I guess if you live in a state where it always snows or freezes I can understand.
10-24-2017, 03:16 PM
#50
unless you live in a state where the temperature drops below Zero all winter, I am trying to understand why anyone would store their car for the winter. I
I live in NY where the winter can get pretty cold but we do have some thirty and and sometimes forty degree days. I try to use my car as often as possible During the winter barring any now or salted roads. I guess if you live in a state where it always snows or freezes I can understand.
I live in NY where the winter can get pretty cold but we do have some thirty and and sometimes forty degree days. I try to use my car as often as possible During the winter barring any now or salted roads. I guess if you live in a state where it always snows or freezes I can understand.
10-24-2017, 04:00 PM
#51
Le Mans Master
I never really winterize my Corvette's , I can always get a day every 2 to 3 weeks to get them out and run them... This saves alot of the work most have to do to put the car away for the winter...I'm sure it's also better for the cars to be run every few weeks then it is to have them sit for 5 months and never getting run.. I do use an Optima maintainer to keep the batterys charged up all winter, but that's all I do ......WW
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Last edited by WW7; 10-31-2017 at 10:31 AM.
10-25-2017, 02:23 AM
#52
Banned Scam/Spammer
Thread Starter
Updates
This has actually became a very informative and interesting discussion.
I have received replies from the 3 oil manufactures I contacted about this topic. Some of the information they gave is on par with what has been mentioned so far here in the discussion, so here is what I have been told from Mobil 1, Amsoil and Royal Purple.
Two of the three said it is best to drain the oil and replace the oil and filter with fresh oil and a clean filter BEFORE storage. Then, start the engine and drive it or let it run until the oil temperature reaches 200 degrees. This will allow the a good fresh coating of oil on the internal parts with fresh rust and other inhibitors to protect the internal components. By running the engine to an oil temperature of 200 degrees allows for any moisture to be evaporated or removed. Then shut the engine down and your good. They also mentioned that starting it and driving it for 20 minutes or 20 miles every 30 days is suggested if possible, and to make sure the oil temperature reaches 200 degrees before shutting it down to continue storage.
So a lot of this is what has been said or mentioned here by you guys and gals.
The third manufacturer said to change it in the spring after storage and said noting about starting it or getting it to any specific temperature. Essentially just drive it all summer, park it, contaminated oil and all, then after it sits for whatever period of time, change the oil and filter and drive again during the driving season. I do not know if this person that answered this email is uneducated, does not care, or is right and it really does not matter.
My opinion is more in line with the other two which is fresh oil before you store it and starting it frequently and getting the engine temperature up to 200 degrees and then shutting it down, preferably by driving it if the weather permits since this will also work and warm up the lubricants in the transmission, rear differential, hubs and other parts. But, depending on where you live this may not be possible unless you have a car treadmill.
So for my car and my piece of mind, I will be changing the oil prior to storage and doing as they suggest. Like some of the others, I do not put enough miles on it to require a change, the car has never told me it needs to be changed, and I personally could not go over 12 months and not change it. So that is where I am at, what do you guys and gals think?
I have received replies from the 3 oil manufactures I contacted about this topic. Some of the information they gave is on par with what has been mentioned so far here in the discussion, so here is what I have been told from Mobil 1, Amsoil and Royal Purple.
Two of the three said it is best to drain the oil and replace the oil and filter with fresh oil and a clean filter BEFORE storage. Then, start the engine and drive it or let it run until the oil temperature reaches 200 degrees. This will allow the a good fresh coating of oil on the internal parts with fresh rust and other inhibitors to protect the internal components. By running the engine to an oil temperature of 200 degrees allows for any moisture to be evaporated or removed. Then shut the engine down and your good. They also mentioned that starting it and driving it for 20 minutes or 20 miles every 30 days is suggested if possible, and to make sure the oil temperature reaches 200 degrees before shutting it down to continue storage.
So a lot of this is what has been said or mentioned here by you guys and gals.
The third manufacturer said to change it in the spring after storage and said noting about starting it or getting it to any specific temperature. Essentially just drive it all summer, park it, contaminated oil and all, then after it sits for whatever period of time, change the oil and filter and drive again during the driving season. I do not know if this person that answered this email is uneducated, does not care, or is right and it really does not matter.
My opinion is more in line with the other two which is fresh oil before you store it and starting it frequently and getting the engine temperature up to 200 degrees and then shutting it down, preferably by driving it if the weather permits since this will also work and warm up the lubricants in the transmission, rear differential, hubs and other parts. But, depending on where you live this may not be possible unless you have a car treadmill.
So for my car and my piece of mind, I will be changing the oil prior to storage and doing as they suggest. Like some of the others, I do not put enough miles on it to require a change, the car has never told me it needs to be changed, and I personally could not go over 12 months and not change it. So that is where I am at, what do you guys and gals think?
10-25-2017, 04:36 AM
#53
Banned Scam/Spammer
Thread Starter
That is what gets me. They have said all my life to change your oil every 3000 miles regardless how good the oil is or every 6 months, so at least twice a year regardless.
Now they come out with this once a year oil that apparently does not matter how many miles, how hard you drive or anything, you just change it every year. Sorry, but even if I put the so called 12 month oil in my car, I would change it after 3000 miles or every 6 months anyway. I am OCD and going over 3000 miles on the same oil would eat at me like termites in a log cabin..
Now they come out with this once a year oil that apparently does not matter how many miles, how hard you drive or anything, you just change it every year. Sorry, but even if I put the so called 12 month oil in my car, I would change it after 3000 miles or every 6 months anyway. I am OCD and going over 3000 miles on the same oil would eat at me like termites in a log cabin..
10-25-2017, 08:45 AM
#54
Drifting
I change mine when the OLM reads 25% or slightly below (About 2 times per year based on my driving habits). Usually, the second change happens to coincide with winter's onset.
Now on a more serious note, make sure you drain the air from your tires and replace it with winter air and top off your blinker fluid.
Now on a more serious note, make sure you drain the air from your tires and replace it with winter air and top off your blinker fluid.
10-25-2017, 09:26 AM
#55
Banned Scam/Spammer
Thread Starter
I change mine when the OLM reads 25% or slightly below (About 2 times per year based on my driving habits). Usually, the second change happens to coincide with winter's onset.
Now on a more serious note, make sure you drain the air from your tires and replace it with winter air and top off your blinker fluid.
Now on a more serious note, make sure you drain the air from your tires and replace it with winter air and top off your blinker fluid.
10-25-2017, 09:32 AM
#56
Race Director
That is what gets me. They have said all my life to change your oil every 3000 miles regardless how good the oil is or every 6 months, so at least twice a year regardless.
Now they come out with this once a year oil that apparently does not matter how many miles, how hard you drive or anything, you just change it every year. Sorry, but even if I put the so called 12 month oil in my car, I would change it after 3000 miles or every 6 months anyway. I am OCD and going over 3000 miles on the same oil would eat at me like termites in a log cabin..
Now they come out with this once a year oil that apparently does not matter how many miles, how hard you drive or anything, you just change it every year. Sorry, but even if I put the so called 12 month oil in my car, I would change it after 3000 miles or every 6 months anyway. I am OCD and going over 3000 miles on the same oil would eat at me like termites in a log cabin..
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WW7 (10-31-2017)
10-25-2017, 09:45 AM
#57
Race Director
That is what gets me. They have said all my life to change your oil every 3000 miles regardless how good the oil is or every 6 months, so at least twice a year regardless.
Now they come out with this once a year oil that apparently does not matter how many miles, how hard you drive or anything, you just change it every year. Sorry, but even if I put the so called 12 month oil in my car, I would change it after 3000 miles or every 6 months anyway. I am OCD and going over 3000 miles on the same oil would eat at me like termites in a log cabin..
Now they come out with this once a year oil that apparently does not matter how many miles, how hard you drive or anything, you just change it every year. Sorry, but even if I put the so called 12 month oil in my car, I would change it after 3000 miles or every 6 months anyway. I am OCD and going over 3000 miles on the same oil would eat at me like termites in a log cabin..
Last edited by BadAV; 10-25-2017 at 09:46 AM.
10-25-2017, 11:29 AM
#59
I have an extra gallon of blinker fluid if you need to top your off, and you need to be accurate, you drain the old air from your tires for storage but you don't refill them with fresh air until you go to drive it. Nothing worse than stale air to kill the performance in a car.
10-25-2017, 11:55 AM
#60
Race Director