If you adjust your cable and still have issues with the car not starting properly, you may need to replace the micro-switches inside the shifter assembly. A lot of people have had them go bad. including me. I first tried to shim them, but ended up replacing the switches and haven't had any problems since. See this thread for more info. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...use-found.html

 

You got away cheap, past October broke in the park, and had it towed to dealership, $700.00 dollars later, it's 05 with at the time had 72,000 miles.

 

What gear were you in when the shifter cable failed. If you were in PARK, then the rear wheels are locked and then how do you drag the car onto the flatbed without damaging the transmission?

 

Crawl under the rear of the car and manually move the transmission shift lever to the Neutral detent.

 

On the 2005 A4, the shift and neutral park switch for the BCM is by the trans lever for the cable.

So when replacing the cable, or even the bushings, need to first get the cable to the correct length via directions above.
Then once you have it there, can check the neutral park switch at the trans lever to make sure its indexed correctly as well.

As for the microswitch in the shifter assembly, its used to power up the release pawl electromagnetic solenoid when the lever is in park, then de-energize the release solenoid once you take the shifter out of park (so you don't burn up the electromagnetic solenoid staying energized when the shifter is out of park and driving the car).

As for the BPS relearn, short of the that sensor U forks being worn, or sensor going bad, should be the only reason that is needs to be relearn to the BCM. Hence it not an on/off switch, but a Ohm reading switch that it reading is slightly different for each car. So during the BPS relearn, just teaching the BCM what the ohm reading is on the sensor with the brake pedal untouched, then push down on the Brake pedal until you get light pressure on the pedal, and teach that into the BCM as the differential reading. If you press way hard down on the pedal, then that will need to be the pressure that you have to have on the brake pedal, before the car will start, as well as when the rear brake lights come on.

So low down when you press the start button, BCM checks with RCDLR to make sure it picked up the fob on 2 of the RCDLR antenna's to prove that the fob in in the car, check the park/neutral switch to make sure that the trans is not in gear or reverse, then check the BPS to make sure its depressed, then sends the run and start command to the ecm to start the car. In a M6, delete the BPS and the neutral park switch, but add in the clutch pedal postion switch, to make sure that the clutch pedal is all the way down.

And to note, if the car is not starting, you can go into BCM data with a Tech II to check all the above, to see which one is the problem if the car will not start when you press the starter button. To add, if the BCM data checks out fine, then pull up ECM data to see if its in run and start mode as well once you press the starter button.
Note, keep in mind that the ECM will only be in start mode for 5 seconds at a time, each starter button push/each BCM start command.

 

Well you better have a jack with you and the car better be COOL because to get your hand to the trans shift lever you will be touching the exhaust pipes.