nick14003

My plastic windshield cowl is faded like crazy.
I'm thinking of painting it with a rattle can

I'd like the oem flat black look

Any ideas on a can that will hold up for an exterior part? I don't want to have to repaint it in 6 months... and i'm not planning on putting a clear coat on it either.

jaredtxrx

Rust-Oleum Painters Touch 2X Ultra Cover Paint+Primer or Krylon SuperMaxx in flat black.

Dutch08

In My Humble Opinion (I state that because some people on this forum will jump all over you if you don't do what everyone else does) ...

I'm not sure what you mean by "windshield cowl" ... here's what I have done with awesome success (again IMHO).

In order done on my '05 that's been outside sun with too much sun...

• Scrub with Magic Eraser interior, then Aerospace 3030, result near new on both cashmere and black especially the dash pad.
• Scrub with Magic Eraser, then "Back to black" on outside windshield trim, result near new appearance -- does not last -- redo every six months.
• <This is some odd door and hatch trim>, not exposed to sun, but turned whitish, Scrub with Magic Eraser, paint with Fusion satin black for plastic.

The only thing haven't figured out is the rubber front windshield trim, inside the door the "elbow". Can't seem get it black, and haven't tried painting it.

My 2-Cents, YMMV, Hope this helps. Please let us know the results of your methods.

rkj427

these (2) products will make it look better than new, and once coated it will stay that way........................

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exteri...-restorer.html

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exteri...ating-kit.html

grady

If you are looking at painting the windshield cowl, note that the passenger side curve is rubber similar to the edge against the glass.

I had mine hydro carbon’d and the painter said to not do that curve being the may be too much flex in that area.

Dcasole

I agree with the above , to much flex for paint . Also in the extreeme conditions a car sees the paint will expand and contract at a different rate than the plastic underneath causing lifting and peel even if you use a good primer

Parts that are meant to be painted , bumpers etc , all have the same expansion and contraction coefficient as the paints and primers that the engineers know is going to be applied to them

Dave

nick14003

if i'm going to spend 100 dollars on a product to bring it back to new looking. I might as well buy a new one at that point...

enventr

I use back to Black .

SouthBaySurfer

Check out Car Worx Refinish Restorer. I don't need it, so I've never used it, but the guys on the Chevy Avalanche site seem to love it for the vinyl cladding.

yamabob

Gtechnique's C4 trim restorer works fantastic. Another product that works very well but does not last as long is Solution Finish. The difference between the 2 is SF is easier to apply and will not bond to the paint or glass like the C4. I use both for different reasons and people's vehicle's.
If you go the paint root-clean very,very well first. Make sure the paint is made for plastic as you usually use an adhesion promoter first to change the surface tension. As always painting multiple thin coats is the proper method

Icecap

https://www.carid.com/plastikote/12-...t-mpn-t-8.html

The aluminum panels on the door pillars of my daily driver started to peel off exposing bare aluminum. I used the above paint and it was a perfect match to the OEM paint.