Door switch
01-08-2018, 06:36 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Door switch
I have a friend that has a 2008 C6 convertible and is having a problem getting the door open when it is cold. He says that the window indexes but the door will not open. He used a hair dryer today to heat up the area around the door switch and got the door to open. I told him I think it is the switch needing cleaned but I do not understand the windows indexing but the door not opening. Does anyone have any ideas, would like any help.
01-08-2018, 06:54 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
It could either be the opener on the door, or the door module itself. The door module on my 2005 coupe went out and it did the same thing...window would index but door would not open. GM replaced it under warranty even though the car was not under warranty. Take the pad off of the door and clean and if that doesn't do it, my guess is the module located inside the door.
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triple black c4 (01-08-2018)
01-08-2018, 06:56 PM
#3
Race Car Tech
I have a friend that has a 2008 C6 convertible and is having a problem getting the door open when it is cold. He says that the window indexes but the door will not open. He used a hair dryer today to heat up the area around the door switch and got the door to open. I told him I think it is the switch needing cleaned but I do not understand the windows indexing but the door not opening. Does anyone have any ideas, would like any help.
I took the door pad off, cleaned all the contacts and never had a problem since.
If cleaning the door pad doesn't fix the issue, try spraying the door latch with silicone lubricant, and if that doesn't work, you likely need a new latch.
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triple black c4 (01-08-2018)
01-08-2018, 07:06 PM
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I was not sure about the windows indexing and the door still not opening but sounds like that happened to you . I appreciate your help.
01-08-2018, 10:50 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
I have a friend that has a 2008 C6 convertible and is having a problem getting the door open when it is cold. He says that the window indexes but the door will not open. He used a hair dryer today to heat up the area around the door switch and got the door to open. I told him I think it is the switch needing cleaned but I do not understand the windows indexing but the door not opening. Does anyone have any ideas, would like any help.
Note
oes it open from ok from the inside??....If so i would buy a NEW door pad for $15.00....I cleaned my a couple of times but that didn't last very long...The pads are made in Mexico..Enough said...Good Luck.
Last edited by Cherokee Nation; 01-09-2018 at 10:12 PM. Reason: change
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triple black c4 (01-09-2018)
01-09-2018, 12:12 AM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
The door pad has 3 contracts in it, so when you press on the pad one will index the window and another will open the door. My 08 has the same problem and i replaced the door pad a couple months ago and it will not open from the outside and also from the inside.The passenger door works like new,so that tells me it's not the BCM and it has to be the solenoid locking mechanical device in the door jam.The part# is 88956758 and the cost is $200.00 and change from GM Parts Direct.
Noteoes it open from ok from the inside??....If so i would buy a NEW door pad for $15.00....I cleaned my a couple of times but that didn't last very long...The pads are made in Mexico..Enough said...Good Luck.
Note
oes it open from ok from the inside??....If so i would buy a NEW door pad for $15.00....I cleaned my a couple of times but that didn't last very long...The pads are made in Mexico..Enough said...Good Luck.
01-09-2018, 07:00 AM
#8
Race Director
Member Since: May 2006
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2016 Corvette of Year
2015 C6 of Year Finalist
I just changed both my door pads, mine is a 2006 and for the cheap price of the pads, I opted to just change them instead of cleaning, took all of 10 mins to do both and no issue since
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triple black c4 (01-09-2018)
01-09-2018, 08:35 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
And, no, if the window indexes normally that means the switch pad is working just fine and the issue is the latch in the B pillar. Now if the window indexes and goes right back up without the door opening then that is the switch pad. Heating the switch pad should do nothing but heating the area around the switch pad would heat the latch a bit and possibly free it up. Heating dirt won't help. Heating lubricant could.
Last edited by FortMorganAl; 01-09-2018 at 08:41 AM.
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triple black c4 (01-09-2018)
01-09-2018, 10:21 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
01-09-2018, 10:50 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!! You say you've cleaned it but have you ever even looked inside the pad? There are multiple contacts all wired in parallel. There is a sensing wire and a ground wire. There are multiple contacts so that when one gets dirty others still work and the door can still be opened.
Yes, spending $15 will solve the issue but it is very little more work to clean the contacts and the clean contacts will last just as long as a new switch pad. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-fix-easy.html BTW, click on the pictures to enlarge them and you will see there are 12 small contacts and 4 large ones, not 3.
And, no, if the window indexes normally that means the switch pad is working just fine and the issue is the latch in the B pillar. Now if the window indexes and goes right back up without the door opening then that is the switch pad. Heating the switch pad should do nothing but heating the area around the switch pad would heat the latch a bit and possibly free it up. Heating dirt won't help. Heating lubricant could.
Yes, spending $15 will solve the issue but it is very little more work to clean the contacts and the clean contacts will last just as long as a new switch pad. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-fix-easy.html BTW, click on the pictures to enlarge them and you will see there are 12 small contacts and 4 large ones, not 3.
And, no, if the window indexes normally that means the switch pad is working just fine and the issue is the latch in the B pillar. Now if the window indexes and goes right back up without the door opening then that is the switch pad. Heating the switch pad should do nothing but heating the area around the switch pad would heat the latch a bit and possibly free it up. Heating dirt won't help. Heating lubricant could.
Last edited by Cherokee Nation; 01-09-2018 at 10:53 PM. Reason: add
01-10-2018, 08:03 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
As I said, "..if the window indexes normally that means the switch pad is working just fine and the issue is the latch in the B pillar. Now if the window indexes and goes right back up without the door opening then that is the switch pad. " Indexing normally means the window goes down AND STAYS DOWN, until the door opens or you release the switch. If it goes down and right back up without the door opening then it thinks that you "released" the switch because the switch contact came back open while the door was still closed. This indicates the cycle was complete and the window should be up because the door is closed and you are no longer asking it to open.
01-10-2018, 10:46 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
As I said, "..if the window indexes normally that means the switch pad is working just fine and the issue is the latch in the B pillar. Now if the window indexes and goes right back up without the door opening then that is the switch pad. " Indexing normally means the window goes down AND STAYS DOWN, until the door opens or you release the switch. If it goes down and right back up without the door opening then it thinks that you "released" the switch because the switch contact came back open while the door was still closed. This indicates the cycle was complete and the window should be up because the door is closed and you are no longer asking it to open.
Forgot to say that I have cleaned the lock in the door and lubed it many times.
Last edited by Cherokee Nation; 01-10-2018 at 10:53 PM. Reason: change
01-11-2018, 09:17 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
It the window goes up and down quickly, and especially multiple times, nope. There are only three wires to the pad. On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). There are three similar wires to the passenger switch and PDM. The RCDLR is notified that someone wants the door open which initiates the security check to see if the door is locked and should be allowed to be opened. Meanwhile the DDR is being notified so that after the RCDLR authorizes the BCM computer (Body Control Module) to allow the door to be opened, the DDR knows how to handle the LED light and the window indexing. Meanwhile the BCM computer is talking to both determining the status and initiating actions. The BCM authorized the window to go down. After the DDR reports back that the window is down the BCM initiates the latch in the B pillar to open. Once the latch is energized and the window opens the DDR will maintain the window down until it is told by the BCM to raise it again. Normally this would mean that the window will stay down until the door is closed again. The BCM will also continue to power the latch until you release the switch. But if you release the switch indicating you no longer want the door open, everything starts reversing. And if the opening was never completed then the BCM reverses the command to the DDM and the DDM returns the window to the up position. This is where an intermittent contact in the switch comes in. It looks to the computers that you wanted to open the door but quickly changed your mind. It starts to open but quickly returns to the closed position.
Here's how GM describes that long rambling stream of conscientious dissertation:
And from page 4-72:
Obviously GM left something out of their description in that the window will NOT index down if the door is locked and the RCDLR determines that there is no valid FOB near the switch requesting the action. All you will get is a solid red LED.
So can we at least agree that there are not 3 or ".. 4 contacts that only touch the circuit board and each has has a mission."? As far as you hearing the latch click but the door not open, THAT is a misaligned latch issue, not an electrical one. If you would like the directions for realigning the latch striker which is done through a panel inside the door, please let me know.
Here's how GM describes that long rambling stream of conscientious dissertation:
Driver Power Door Latch Unlatch Operation
The remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR), driver door module (DDM) and body control module (BCM) control the output functions of the driver power door latch. These output functions allow the RCDLR and BCM to command the driver power door latch motor to Unlatch.
When the RCDLR receives an input from either the driver exterior door handle switch or driver interior door handle switch, it checks the Lock/Unlock status of the driver door. If the status of the driver door is Unlock, the RCDLR applies the ground for the driver power door latch.
At the same time that the RCDLR is receiving its input, the DDM is also receiving the same input. When the DDM receives its input from the door handle switch, it checks the window indexing status of the driver door. If the window is below the index point, it sends a serial data message to the BCM to apply voltage for the driver power door latch. If the window is above the index point, it will first index the window, then send a serial data message to the BCM to apply voltage for the driver power door latch.
For a better description of window indexing, refer to Power Windows Description and Operation on page 4-72.
The remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR), driver door module (DDM) and body control module (BCM) control the output functions of the driver power door latch. These output functions allow the RCDLR and BCM to command the driver power door latch motor to Unlatch.
When the RCDLR receives an input from either the driver exterior door handle switch or driver interior door handle switch, it checks the Lock/Unlock status of the driver door. If the status of the driver door is Unlock, the RCDLR applies the ground for the driver power door latch.
At the same time that the RCDLR is receiving its input, the DDM is also receiving the same input. When the DDM receives its input from the door handle switch, it checks the window indexing status of the driver door. If the window is below the index point, it sends a serial data message to the BCM to apply voltage for the driver power door latch. If the window is above the index point, it will first index the window, then send a serial data message to the BCM to apply voltage for the driver power door latch.
For a better description of window indexing, refer to Power Windows Description and Operation on page 4-72.
Window Indexing
The window indexing feature is used to lower the driver and passenger power windows approximately 4 mm when the door is opened. This is necessary to allow the top edge of the window to clear the window weatherstrip. This feature will also raise the window to the fully seated position once the door is closed.
This feature is enabled in the down direction by an input from either the interior or exterior door handle switch. The appropriate door module will then drive the appropriate window motor to lower the window.
This feature is enabled in the up direction by the input from the appropriate door open switch when the door is closed. The appropriate door module will then drive the appropriate window motor to raise the window.
The window indexing feature is used to lower the driver and passenger power windows approximately 4 mm when the door is opened. This is necessary to allow the top edge of the window to clear the window weatherstrip. This feature will also raise the window to the fully seated position once the door is closed.
This feature is enabled in the down direction by an input from either the interior or exterior door handle switch. The appropriate door module will then drive the appropriate window motor to lower the window.
This feature is enabled in the up direction by the input from the appropriate door open switch when the door is closed. The appropriate door module will then drive the appropriate window motor to raise the window.
So can we at least agree that there are not 3 or ".. 4 contacts that only touch the circuit board and each has has a mission."? As far as you hearing the latch click but the door not open, THAT is a misaligned latch issue, not an electrical one. If you would like the directions for realigning the latch striker which is done through a panel inside the door, please let me know.
01-11-2018, 10:04 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
It the window goes up and down quickly, and especially multiple times, nope. There are only three wires to the pad. On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). There are three similar wires to the passenger switch and PDM. The RCDLR is notified that someone wants the door open which initiates the security check to see if the door is locked and should be allowed to be opened. Meanwhile the DDR is being notified so that after the RCDLR authorizes the BCM computer (Body Control Module) to allow the door to be opened, the DDR knows how to handle the LED light and the window indexing. Meanwhile the BCM computer is talking to both determining the status and initiating actions. The BCM authorized the window to go down. After the DDR reports back that the window is down the BCM initiates the latch in the B pillar to open. Once the latch is energized and the window opens the DDR will maintain the window down until it is told by the BCM to raise it again. Normally this would mean that the window will stay down until the door is closed again. The BCM will also continue to power the latch until you release the switch. But if you release the switch indicating you no longer want the door open, everything starts reversing. And if the opening was never completed then the BCM reverses the command to the DDM and the DDM returns the window to the up position. This is where an intermittent contact in the switch comes in. It looks to the computers that you wanted to open the door but quickly changed your mind. It starts to open but quickly returns to the closed position.
Here's how GM describes that long rambling stream of conscientious dissertation:
And from page 4-72:
Obviously GM left something out of their description in that the window will NOT index down if the door is locked and the RCDLR determines that there is no valid FOB near the switch requesting the action. All you will get is a solid red LED.
So can we at least agree that there are not 3 or ".. 4 contacts that only touch the circuit board and each has has a mission."? As far as you hearing the latch click but the door not open, THAT is a misaligned latch issue, not an electrical one. If you would like the directions for realigning the latch striker which is done through a panel inside the door, please let me know.
Here's how GM describes that long rambling stream of conscientious dissertation:
And from page 4-72:
Obviously GM left something out of their description in that the window will NOT index down if the door is locked and the RCDLR determines that there is no valid FOB near the switch requesting the action. All you will get is a solid red LED.
So can we at least agree that there are not 3 or ".. 4 contacts that only touch the circuit board and each has has a mission."? As far as you hearing the latch click but the door not open, THAT is a misaligned latch issue, not an electrical one. If you would like the directions for realigning the latch striker which is done through a panel inside the door, please let me know.
01-12-2018, 09:46 AM
#16
Le Mans Master
I'm going to give up because your symptoms keep changing so I have to assume at this point 
Your last report is that 1 wire has 12V and 2 have nothing. That would indicate a bad switch. As I indicated above, "On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). " That means the Black wire is ground. The other two are signal wires connected together inside the pad which means they should both have 12 volts normally and zero when the pad is pressed.
Your last report is that 1 wire has 12V and 2 have nothing. That would indicate a bad switch. As I indicated above, "On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). " That means the Black wire is ground. The other two are signal wires connected together inside the pad which means they should both have 12 volts normally and zero when the pad is pressed.
01-12-2018, 10:51 PM
#17
Le Mans Master
I'm going to give up because your symptoms keep changing so I have to assume at this point Your last report is that 1 wire has 12V and 2 have nothing. That would indicate a bad switch. As I indicated above, "On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). " That means the Black wire is ground. The other two are signal wires connected together inside the pad which means they should both have 12 volts normally and zero when the pad is pressed.
Your last report is that 1 wire has 12V and 2 have nothing. That would indicate a bad switch. As I indicated above, "On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). " That means the Black wire is ground. The other two are signal wires connected together inside the pad which means they should both have 12 volts normally and zero when the pad is pressed.
01-30-2018, 04:03 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
I'm going to give up because your symptoms keep changing so I have to assume at this point Your last report is that 1 wire has 12V and 2 have nothing. That would indicate a bad switch. As I indicated above, "On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). " That means the Black wire is ground. The other two are signal wires connected together inside the pad which means they should both have 12 volts normally and zero when the pad is pressed.
Your last report is that 1 wire has 12V and 2 have nothing. That would indicate a bad switch. As I indicated above, "On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). " That means the Black wire is ground. The other two are signal wires connected together inside the pad which means they should both have 12 volts normally and zero when the pad is pressed.