I have a friend that has a 2008 C6 convertible and is having a problem getting the door open when it is cold. He says that the window indexes but the door will not open. He used a hair dryer today to heat up the area around the door switch and got the door to open. I told him I think it is the switch needing cleaned but I do not understand the windows indexing but the door not opening. Does anyone have any ideas, would like any help.

 

It could either be the opener on the door, or the door module itself. The door module on my 2005 coupe went out and it did the same thing...window would index but door would not open. GM replaced it under warranty even though the car was not under warranty. Take the pad off of the door and clean and if that doesn't do it, my guess is the module located inside the door.

 

The almost identical thing happened to my driver door. The window would index, but the door was stubbord and would not open everytime.
I took the door pad off, cleaned all the contacts and never had a problem since.
If cleaning the door pad doesn't fix the issue, try spraying the door latch with silicone lubricant, and if that doesn't work, you likely need a new latch.

 

Thanks guys, I was not sure about the windows indexing and the door still not opening but sounds like that happened to you . I appreciate your help.

 

The door pad has 4 contracts in it, so when you press on the pad one will index the window and another will open the door. My 08 has the same problem and i replaced the door pad a couple months ago and it will not open from the outside and also from the inside.The passenger door works like new,so that tells me it's not the BCM and it has to be the solenoid locking mechanical device in the door jam.The part# is 88956758 and the cost is $200.00 and change from GM Parts Direct.
Noteoes it open from ok from the inside??....If so i would buy a NEW door pad for $15.00....I cleaned my a couple of times but that didn't last very long...The pads are made in Mexico..Enough said...Good Luck.

 

I did not add the Grin thing?? It covers the D.

 

thanks for the information. I was wondering about the solenoid, but it looks like the 15$ switch would be the place to start. Thanks to everyone.

 

I just changed both my door pads, mine is a 2006 and for the cheap price of the pads, I opted to just change them instead of cleaning, took all of 10 mins to do both and no issue since

 

BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!! You say you've cleaned it but have you ever even looked inside the pad? There are multiple contacts all wired in parallel. There is a sensing wire and a ground wire. There are multiple contacts so that when one gets dirty others still work and the door can still be opened.

Yes, spending $15 will solve the issue but it is very little more work to clean the contacts and the clean contacts will last just as long as a new switch pad. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-fix-easy.html BTW, click on the pictures to enlarge them and you will see there are 12 small contacts and 4 large ones, not 3.

And, no, if the window indexes normally that means the switch pad is working just fine and the issue is the latch in the B pillar. Now if the window indexes and goes right back up without the door opening then that is the switch pad. Heating the switch pad should do nothing but heating the area around the switch pad would heat the latch a bit and possibly free it up. Heating dirt won't help. Heating lubricant could.

 

If the inside button works to open the door every time then It's not the solenoid.If you have a VOM check the connector at the door pad for 12 volts.if you have 12 volts there then i would replace the pad.

 

Wrong Mr Morgan...And yes I have had my door pads opened up a few times and i was wrong, there are 4 contacts that only touch the circuit board and each has has a mission.My window would index down and back up...But the door would not open and I put a new pad on it same thing..Now what do you say?.....Last week we had some strange cold weather down here and the door started working like it should as you should know computers work best and last longer in a cool place.Now we are back in the 70ths and no more working...BTW My vette stays outside in a carport so the weather has an affect on the electronics.
Photo did not come out very good,so do not tell me that i have never had one apart....

 

As I said, "..if the window indexes normally that means the switch pad is working just fine and the issue is the latch in the B pillar. Now if the window indexes and goes right back up without the door opening then that is the switch pad. " Indexing normally means the window goes down AND STAYS DOWN, until the door opens or you release the switch. If it goes down and right back up without the door opening then it thinks that you "released" the switch because the switch contact came back open while the door was still closed. This indicates the cycle was complete and the window should be up because the door is closed and you are no longer asking it to open.

 

Like I said also.I can go out to my car right now and press the door switch and window goes down and back up in a nanosecond and at times i will try it at 10 times and get the same result...The door will not even try to open,and like i said (I Think) in another post that i put a new door switch on about a month ago.Also when i push the inside button it will not open.(Thanks GM) for the exit lever so i can exit my vette.Sometimes i will set in my seat with the door open and closed and push the button and i can hear a click in the lock in the door pillar.I will push the button 10 times (No Open).I checked at the connectors outside and inside and have power at them,so it HAS to be the lock in the door pillar,because the passenger door opens with just a easy squeeze on the pad i harley ever opened the passenger door in the 10 years of owning it..So don't you agree that the problem is the $200.00 part in the lock in the pillar? The BCM should not be the problem ,because everything else that it controls is working as needed.....Forgot to say that I have cleaned the lock in the door and lubed it many times.

 

It the window goes up and down quickly, and especially multiple times, nope. There are only three wires to the pad. On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). There are three similar wires to the passenger switch and PDM. The RCDLR is notified that someone wants the door open which initiates the security check to see if the door is locked and should be allowed to be opened. Meanwhile the DDR is being notified so that after the RCDLR authorizes the BCM computer (Body Control Module) to allow the door to be opened, the DDR knows how to handle the LED light and the window indexing. Meanwhile the BCM computer is talking to both determining the status and initiating actions. The BCM authorized the window to go down. After the DDR reports back that the window is down the BCM initiates the latch in the B pillar to open. Once the latch is energized and the window opens the DDR will maintain the window down until it is told by the BCM to raise it again. Normally this would mean that the window will stay down until the door is closed again. The BCM will also continue to power the latch until you release the switch. But if you release the switch indicating you no longer want the door open, everything starts reversing. And if the opening was never completed then the BCM reverses the command to the DDM and the DDM returns the window to the up position. This is where an intermittent contact in the switch comes in. It looks to the computers that you wanted to open the door but quickly changed your mind. It starts to open but quickly returns to the closed position.

Here's how GM describes that long rambling stream of conscientious dissertation:And from page 4-72:
Obviously GM left something out of their description in that the window will NOT index down if the door is locked and the RCDLR determines that there is no valid FOB near the switch requesting the action. All you will get is a solid red LED.

So can we at least agree that there are not 3 or ".. 4 contacts that only touch the circuit board and each has has a mission."? As far as you hearing the latch click but the door not open, THAT is a misaligned latch issue, not an electrical one. If you would like the directions for realigning the latch striker which is done through a panel inside the door, please let me know.

 

It has been an intermittent problem for months so that is the reason i put a new door switch on and still not working 98% of the time.The way i tested it today i opened my passenger door and put my finger in the door lock and locked it,then i pushed the inside button and the metal piece went backup (Unlocked) this is with my door open i did this a few times and it worked every time,so i tried the same on my drivers side and it did nothing.Like i said i used my meter and use the metal part of the door where the connector is for ground and checked at the first wire and had 12 volts,the other 2 wires nothing.I don't think the door is misaligned....Thanks for all the information.

 

I'm going to give up because your symptoms keep changing so I have to assume at this point Your last report is that 1 wire has 12V and 2 have nothing. That would indicate a bad switch. As I indicated above, "On the driver's side the black on is common ground. The light green / black one is the signal to the RCDLR computer (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) that someone is trying to open the door. The dark blue wire is the signal to the DDM computer (Driver Door Module). " That means the Black wire is ground. The other two are signal wires connected together inside the pad which means they should both have 12 volts normally and zero when the pad is pressed.

 

If i could talk to this keyboard and it would type for me then you would understand what I'm talking about.My symptoms HAVE not changed...The Fu#$ing door will not open from the outside or inside..Bottom line!!...When i checked for 12 volts i checked at the connector with it UNPLUGGED from the switch same with the inside button.I know black is ground,but i prefer to use the frame as ground.....I'm removing the panels Saturday to get into the door locking part (DDM) as you say,but I'm 99% sure it is the solenoid.There is a video that shows how to replace it which is simple.My problem is not to common,but it has happened ??? times.

 

Update FortMorgan: As I suspected my problem was the latch in the door jam...I ordered one and replaced it 'Easy even for this ole man'...Now i no longer have to open the hatch and pull the cable to get in or pull the handle to get out.

 

The pads to open the door from outside and the buttons on the inside are super cheap on Amazon or Ebay. I have had to replace all 4 on a 2011 C6 GS, I have a 2008 base I am replacing now. Do yourself a favor and buy one of each, you will need them at some point.