Painting Brake Rotor Hubs
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Painting Brake Rotor Hubs
One of many DIY projects I have going on this summer. Enjoy!
Also, I'm aware I did not use jack stands on the front.
I'm also aware I did not mask off the rotor. I chose not to. I've gotten a lot of crap for this. Some people say the paint can gum up your pads, and/or the paint effects the steel on the friction surface of the rotor. I personally did not have any issues.
Also, I'm aware I did not use jack stands on the front.
I'm also aware I did not mask off the rotor. I chose not to. I've gotten a lot of crap for this. Some people say the paint can gum up your pads, and/or the paint effects the steel on the friction surface of the rotor. I personally did not have any issues.
#4
Race Director
Nice DYI video. I use VHT Ceramic caliper paint for the rotor hubs which works extremely well and easy to keep clean.
One thing I might add is when removing the rear rotors on a C-5 or C-6 be mindful of how difficult it is to separate the rotor free of the e-brake shoes. If the shoes are very tight of not force the rotor off where the shoes are pulled out with the rotor.They are held in tension by a "W" spring which is very difficult to reattach engaging the shoes with the spring to the backing plate. I speak from personal experience here. Follow the steps in the videos and take your time and your project will turn out great.
One thing I might add is when removing the rear rotors on a C-5 or C-6 be mindful of how difficult it is to separate the rotor free of the e-brake shoes. If the shoes are very tight of not force the rotor off where the shoes are pulled out with the rotor.They are held in tension by a "W" spring which is very difficult to reattach engaging the shoes with the spring to the backing plate. I speak from personal experience here. Follow the steps in the videos and take your time and your project will turn out great.
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
#7
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Etobicoke (Toronto) Ontario
Posts: 4,055
Received 1,809 Likes
on
1,157 Posts
As an alternative method, I pointed my rotors a few weeks ago using a brush and flat-black high temp paint. The wheels had to come off, but after that it was very straightforward, especially the fronts, since they could be rotated and all of the hat that needed paint could be painted without risking getting paint on the calipers. The rears were a little more tricky, since they couldn't be rotated, I was careful with the brush, and was able to paint all of the parts around the studs and on towards the friction area, and left the portion closest to the caliper unpainted so that I wouldn't get paint on the caliper. I was careful to get minimal paint on the rotor friction surface. After the car was back on the ground, I just backed it up until the small unpainted areas were accessible between the spokes, and I used the brush again to complete the job. All bare metal (except the friction area) ended up with a coat of paint. There are no visible brush marks, and removal of the calipers was unnecessary. It was also unnecessary to mask or protect the threads on the studs from paint, since the brush gives you a lot of control.
Here is one of the rear wheels afterwards:
I also removed 8 years or so of crud from the barrels while the wheels were off.
Here is one of the rear wheels afterwards:
I also removed 8 years or so of crud from the barrels while the wheels were off.
Last edited by FatsWaller; 06-07-2018 at 06:24 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Not So Fast (06-07-2018)
#8
Le Mans Master
Great videos. I painted what you can see of my hubs with permanent marker...$1.59 at Wally World, in about 10 minutes per wheel over 4 years ago. Not quite as nice as yours, but works great.
#9
Instructor
As an alternative method, I pointed my rotors a few weeks ago using a brush and flat-black high temp paint. The wheels had to come off, but after that it was very straightforward, especially the fronts, since they could be rotated and all of the hat that needed paint could be painted without risking getting paint on the calipers. The rears were a little more tricky, since they couldn't be rotated, I was careful with the brush, and was able to paint all of the parts around the studs and on towards the friction area, and left the portion closest to the caliper unpainted so that I wouldn't get paint on the caliper. I was careful to get minimal paint on the rotor friction surface. After the car was back on the ground, I just backed it up until the small unpainted areas were accessible between the spokes, and I used the brush again to complete the job. All bare metal (except the friction area) ended up with a coat of paint. There are no visible brush marks, and removal of the calipers was unnecessary. It was also unnecessary to mask or protect the threads on the studs from paint, since the brush gives you a lot of control.
Here is one of the rear wheels afterwards:
I also removed 8 years or so of crud from the barrels while the wheels were off.
Here is one of the rear wheels afterwards:
I also removed 8 years or so of crud from the barrels while the wheels were off.
thanks bud
#10
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Etobicoke (Toronto) Ontario
Posts: 4,055
Received 1,809 Likes
on
1,157 Posts
#11
Instructor
Sorry, I'm not quite understanding what you are looking for. I didn't take any pics or videos while I was doing it; I was kind of pushed for time since it looked like it might rain. All I took was 'after pics', which were posted here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-for-now.html
what is the brush and paint you used is my question.
something like an amazon link would work for me bud.
thank you
#12
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Etobicoke (Toronto) Ontario
Posts: 4,055
Received 1,809 Likes
on
1,157 Posts
Not sure if you can get that in the US, but Rustoleum is the same company I think, and they should have a similar product, or any flat black BBQ paint should work as well.
I just used a 1" flat brush like this one:
You could use a smaller one to get closer to the friction area if you are concerned with getting paint there, but even with the 1" brush, I didn't get much on it. I was careful not to do that. Have a rag with some varsol standing by just in case. The very small amount of overlap disappeared the first time I applied the brakes. I doubt it hurt the rotor or pads at all. I've done this before on an Aurora and Caddy that I used to drive, and never had any problems (or rust on the hats afterwards).
The following users liked this post:
Tj25 (06-07-2018)