Patsgarage

You can reset the OLM (oil life monitor) by holding down the "reset" button while the oil life % is displayed in the DIC.
If the car dies exactly when the oil temp gets to 190 deg and does so each time it does I would try unplugging the sensor and see if it still dies. I doubt that is the problem, but it might be worth a try. The sensor is located on the side of the oil pan by the oil filter.

Matthobs

Oil life now shows 100% after reset. Going to let it idle and warm up now and see exactly when it dies.

Patsgarage

Matthobs

After firing the car back up the car died at: 142 degrees oil temp and 199 coolant temp
Turned it back on and died again at 167 degrees oil temp and 212 coolant temp

Get warnings for: Reduced engine power and Service Traction system

Another thing to note, being a Z51 I have "competitive mode" and I am unable to use that feature and only have the two options of Traction On or Off. (this may be because I switched in and out the BCM) but I dont know.

I believe there is a way of resetting the cars ECU, worth a shot?

Matthobs

(Bump from page 3)

Update:

So after getting a new battery and different BCM in (even through the part # didn't match to my stock one) the car still stalls out just like it would before... I have shipped my car from FL to Washington State for work and my C6 is still undriveable.

After going to the local Chevy dealer here they have to wait a week for a "corvette specialist" to come and take a look at the car.... (charging 2,3,4,5 hours of diagnosis time. @ 150 per hour.) Saying the dealer there has had 15 different corvettes come in with issues of completely shutting down while driving it has come to 15 different issues.

Having a week to try and fix it myself, what do you guys recommend I try and do without spending even more $....

I have put in the original BCM back in and noticed: with both the original and the other BCM I bought off a salvaged car, that whenever the oil temperature gets to 190 is when it shuts off on me.. Fires up just fine after turning off accessories for 30 seconds (as the car resets?) Drive it around 5-10 more minutes and it dies again either driving any speed or while just sitting. ( this it seems to me that it is temperature related.) However before reaching a "warmed up" temperature the car drives flawlessly.

The car also says I need to check the oil and under the dash settings says I have 0% oil life. When in fact I just did an oil change 4 weeks ago.

(only modifications are BBK Cold air intake and muffler delete, untuned) (it is a Z51)

Any input is greatly appreciated.
-Matt
________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ ___________________________
Also: Here is a list of codes to which the first Chevy dealership thought the problem may have been after taking apart the car and saying it was the IGN switch or BCM,
This is when I didn't spend the $521 on a new BCM along with the labor $...and got another off a salvaged C6 even through the part #'s didn't match to my stock one.

Maybe time to buy another IGN switch and try that? or get Chevy's Tech II tool to reprogram the salvaged car BCM?

Knob Jockey

If you are in western Washington take your car to Corvettes of Auburn or Tom Wong's Performance Engineering in Vancouver (WA not BC).

Rule of Thumb: only take a Corvette to a Chevy Dealer for warranty work.

Good luck with this giant PITA

Black LS2

This is some type of intermittent connection or temperature fail just waiting to be found.

Battery cables and major connections are highly suspect here. I would pull both cables, screw/bolt them to a analog ohm meter probe and wiggle the crap out of them. Feel every inch of the jacket for differences in internal integrity. If OK, clean every major +/- connection with a wire brush soaking in coke and then rinse distilled water, dry, and reinstall. Make sure the battery connectors have the proper cone nuts! Reseat every fuse at the BCM and under hood fuse box; pay particular attention to the blades of EACH fuse and fuse connectors - look for ANY sign of corrosion.

If problem persists, pull the wheel the clean and reseat the computer connections (contact cleaner spray) let air dry before replugging.

If it still persists, the underhood fuse box base has internal copper connections --- inspect those for same (search low beam headlight recall for pics and guidance).

After all that, if you still have an issue, start on temperature driven problems.

Good luck, report back please.

Sadly, basic troubleshooting and observation correlation has often been replaced with throwing parts at the problem in the dealership service bay.

speedy08

to many problems dude...

Jeff T.

IMHO you need to verify that you have a correct and working BCM. Until that is confirmed you're just pissing in the wind.

Matthobs

Thanks Black LS2 for the input going to give that a try.

Jeff, is there any specific way checking to see if the BCM is working correctly?

Jeff T.

Unfortunately not my area of expertise. I would search a BCM rebuild/repair company and ask them.

Matthobs

Talked to Dan down at Corvettes of Auburn, he said that the salvaged BCM I bought has to be re flashed with the Tech II Software in order for it to read correctly. They cant get me in for another 2 weeks, so im going to have to look around other shops that have a Tech II. I know Chevy has one so I can get them to re flash it but is there anywhere else I would be able get this done? (living within Washington State)

Again thanks for all the input guys, been a big help and cant wait to get this solved.

-Matt

ruxvette

Try Fleetline Automotive in Tacoma. Jeff @ 253-671-1600

schizcat

Maybe a fuel pump? Car not getting enough fuel and it calls it quits.

OP -- curious, you went from FL to Wash St. Are you a squid?

05 Wreck

This was my suggestion back on 6/12. If the windings in the pump are going bad, car will shut down after warming up.

JasonAndrew

JasonAndrew

Bro , and RUMBL.... IN THE OCTAGON!!

Matthobs

So for those of you who are still subscribed to this thread here's where I now stand after not having a working car for 8 weeks.

After spending almost $760 for a new a brand new BCM, install, and program at my local Chevy in Washing dealer assuming from my BCM was bad from the first diagnosis in Florida. They came back saying that I had a bad ECM "engine control module" without any assurance that this was exactly my issue mentioning that I may need to buy even more parts due to their "corvette specialist tech" not knowing where the issue was even steaming from.

After being fed up with Chevy I decided to take my car to Corvettes of Auburn with Dan which quickly became the best decision I had made since the issue first started.
His tech there Josh is a guru when it comes to any generation of Corvette. After his diagnosis of putting up a Volt meter to the ECM when the car would die, he gave me his full assurance that this is what my problem had been stemming from all along.

Throughout searching the E40 ECM became almost impossible to find as it was "nationally back ordered" throughout Chevy dealers along with being sold out from local shops all over the country. (some C6 corvettes have been down for over 6 months due to not finding one.)
After 30 different phone calls I finally found one and was able to get it installed and programmed in the car within the week.

Picking up the car and finally driving it after 8 weeks definitely felt good.
However, after almost investing over 2 grand into this issue my next step is going to be attempting to getting money back from so many miss diagnosis's from Chevy. Any helpful ideas how to go about this matter are appropriated.

If you are in the Washington area I cant emphasize enough how great Corvettes of Auburn staff and work has been, and highly recommend them for all types of work they do it all. Headers, superchargers, tunes, body work you name it.

Also thanks to all of your input and recommendations trying to figure this issue out.

Knob Jockey

Glad you finally got this corrected. You might need to consult a lawyer for advice on how to recoup your loses incurred at the Dealerships.

We're very fortunate to have a specialist like Corvettes of Auburn in our midst.

There body shop and restorations are of equal quality to their mechanical skills as well.

Matthobs

Exactly, and the body shop and restorations I've heard are 10/10 and funny you would mention. Adding onto my bad luck, an hour have finally having the car and driving the car home. I set the handbrake however, not fully locked and the car slowly rolled down a hill and fell into my neighbors driveway... The front left fender, bumper, side skirts, and rear bumper all cracked so now the car is back with Dan and getting repaired. So basically i'm out of a car for another 3 or 4 weeks. I sure love my C6 but my luck with it has been quite an interesting journey.