Speakers
#1
Speakers
Need to know if you can keep the OEM HU and still replace the speakers and get better sound. The speaker inside my C6 427 sound terrible and I know bose attached a small amp to the door speakers, would it be possible to replace all the speakers and keep the HU and get real sound out of it, by adding a small amp to the system or do I need to replace the entire system?
Thank Yall
Thank Yall
#3
Race Director
I did exactly that and got the idea from THIS THREAD. I swapped door speakers, added a 12" sub in the back and 2 amps.
Getting this will make the job easier too.
Getting this will make the job easier too.
Last edited by EVRose; 06-25-2018 at 01:49 PM.
#4
Le Mans Master
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You have 2 options, IMO, if you want to keep the factory head unit.
Option one is the cheapest way to go if budget and would be to replace the 3.5" speakers in the doors and the 5.25" speakers in the rear and keep everything else stock like door woofers and the Bose amp. This will give you a slight improvement in sound quality.
Second option is to replace the Bose amp with an aftermarket, replace the door speakers with some quality 6.5" components, the rear with some quality 5.25" coaxial, and add a subwoofer in the rear. Also I would highly recommend adding a DSP if you were to go this route. DSP's are very commonly used to improve the sound quality coming out of your head unit and is installed in between your head unit and your amp. It can take good sound coming from a head unit and make it sound great. Just my 2 cents, but DSP's are getting more and more popular and essential as factory head units are becoming more integrated into the car and more difficult to replace. IMO, the C6 Corvette is a great candidate for an aftermarket head unit, but there are many other cars, like the 2 others I own, that I would never ever want to replace the head units with aftermarkets. But if I wanted to improve sound quality, a DSP would be the way to go.
Option one is the cheapest way to go if budget and would be to replace the 3.5" speakers in the doors and the 5.25" speakers in the rear and keep everything else stock like door woofers and the Bose amp. This will give you a slight improvement in sound quality.
Second option is to replace the Bose amp with an aftermarket, replace the door speakers with some quality 6.5" components, the rear with some quality 5.25" coaxial, and add a subwoofer in the rear. Also I would highly recommend adding a DSP if you were to go this route. DSP's are very commonly used to improve the sound quality coming out of your head unit and is installed in between your head unit and your amp. It can take good sound coming from a head unit and make it sound great. Just my 2 cents, but DSP's are getting more and more popular and essential as factory head units are becoming more integrated into the car and more difficult to replace. IMO, the C6 Corvette is a great candidate for an aftermarket head unit, but there are many other cars, like the 2 others I own, that I would never ever want to replace the head units with aftermarkets. But if I wanted to improve sound quality, a DSP would be the way to go.
#5
Le Mans Master
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I did exactly that and got the idea from THIS THREAD. I swapped door speakers, added a 12" sub in the back and 2 amps.
Getting this will make the job easier too. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-AOEM-GM24.../dp/B0002J21XS
Getting this will make the job easier too. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-AOEM-GM24.../dp/B0002J21XS
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EVRose (06-25-2018)
#6
Melting Slicks
Need to know if you can keep the OEM HU and still replace the speakers and get better sound. The speaker inside my C6 427 sound terrible and I know bose attached a small amp to the door speakers, would it be possible to replace all the speakers and keep the HU and get real sound out of it, by adding a small amp to the system or do I need to replace the entire system?
Thank Yall
Thank Yall
Last edited by Oh Boy; 06-25-2018 at 04:05 PM.
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Rontime (06-30-2018)
#7
Le Mans Master
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I never heard of that. Or are you talking about the main amp in the foor well.Here is the redesigned system explanation from Bose for the 2012-2013 model year. http://automotiverhythms.com/bose-so...olet-corvette/
#8
Melting Slicks
True but when he mentioned he has a 427 that is generally referred to the 2013. Usually if you have a Z car we already know it has a 427
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Bailey & Avril (09-19-2019)
#9
Le Mans Master
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True that! I think you are right about the OP having a 2013. When you said you never heard of the separate amps, I just thought I would throw that out there to clarify any confusion about mixed information.
#11
Drifting
You have 2 options, IMO, if you want to keep the factory head unit.
Option one is the cheapest way to go if budget and would be to replace the 3.5" speakers in the doors and the 5.25" speakers in the rear and keep everything else stock like door woofers and the Bose amp. This will give you a slight improvement in sound quality.
Second option is to replace the Bose amp with an aftermarket, replace the door speakers with some quality 6.5" components, the rear with some quality 5.25" coaxial, and add a subwoofer in the rear. Also I would highly recommend adding a DSP if you were to go this route. DSP's are very commonly used to improve the sound quality coming out of your head unit and is installed in between your head unit and your amp. It can take good sound coming from a head unit and make it sound great. Just my 2 cents, but DSP's are getting more and more popular and essential as factory head units are becoming more integrated into the car and more difficult to replace. IMO, the C6 Corvette is a great candidate for an aftermarket head unit, but there are many other cars, like the 2 others I own, that I would never ever want to replace the head units with aftermarkets. But if I wanted to improve sound quality, a DSP would be the way to go.
Option one is the cheapest way to go if budget and would be to replace the 3.5" speakers in the doors and the 5.25" speakers in the rear and keep everything else stock like door woofers and the Bose amp. This will give you a slight improvement in sound quality.
Second option is to replace the Bose amp with an aftermarket, replace the door speakers with some quality 6.5" components, the rear with some quality 5.25" coaxial, and add a subwoofer in the rear. Also I would highly recommend adding a DSP if you were to go this route. DSP's are very commonly used to improve the sound quality coming out of your head unit and is installed in between your head unit and your amp. It can take good sound coming from a head unit and make it sound great. Just my 2 cents, but DSP's are getting more and more popular and essential as factory head units are becoming more integrated into the car and more difficult to replace. IMO, the C6 Corvette is a great candidate for an aftermarket head unit, but there are many other cars, like the 2 others I own, that I would never ever want to replace the head units with aftermarkets. But if I wanted to improve sound quality, a DSP would be the way to go.
#12
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I agree with you. I also have the Pioneer 8200, along with Focal KRX2's in the front and Morel Hybrids in the back with a JL sub all powered by a 5 channel Morel amp. I know some don't like to change their head units and want to keep that factory. Even though I don't like the factory head units on the C6, I respect their decisions if they are adamant on retaining it.
#13
The bose amp only puts out a stereo signal to the two small speakers in the doors. The speaker power output to the center speaker, the two rear speakers are mono, and the outputs to the door thumper speakers that have there own amps, is a mono signal as well.
So head unit can stay, the Bose amp in the passengers floor panel gets replaced with a new amp, and then speaker are replaced to work with the higher output of the new amp.
As for amp, pick you poison.
Myself, would just run with a two channel amp A/B Fret amp with THD in the .01% range, and not a Class D moffet amp that has THD levels in the +1. % instead.
On the system, would run 12db cross overs, balance out the speakers via resistors (for phasing too) and even with a dual wire cone sub woofer with a 12DB cross over, should be able to keep the load on amp above 2 ohms. Hence 200 watt class A/B amp (what is will put that much power out continuously , and not just a peak number went lighting strikes it instead), should be able to have clean 20-20K output at the 130db range with less than .01% THD (if the system is designed correctly).
Note, a huge fan of class A amps, but they pull a lot of power for the wattage output to begin with. As for mosfet class D amps (cheap power amps), you have a lot of output for the power they pull in, but finding one that that the THD is in the .01% range full range for full continues output of the amp, going to cost you huge money isntead. Fact is, when you start looking at the specs for class D amps, most will not even list the THD on the amp to begin with.
The bose amp is 9"x 5", so if your looking to put an amp in the same location, keep that in mind that your dealing with limited room.
I bring this up, since if your looking for a class D amp, the rockford fosgate punch and compact will fit where the bose amp sits no problem.
So head unit can stay, the Bose amp in the passengers floor panel gets replaced with a new amp, and then speaker are replaced to work with the higher output of the new amp.
As for amp, pick you poison.
Myself, would just run with a two channel amp A/B Fret amp with THD in the .01% range, and not a Class D moffet amp that has THD levels in the +1. % instead.
On the system, would run 12db cross overs, balance out the speakers via resistors (for phasing too) and even with a dual wire cone sub woofer with a 12DB cross over, should be able to keep the load on amp above 2 ohms. Hence 200 watt class A/B amp (what is will put that much power out continuously , and not just a peak number went lighting strikes it instead), should be able to have clean 20-20K output at the 130db range with less than .01% THD (if the system is designed correctly).
Note, a huge fan of class A amps, but they pull a lot of power for the wattage output to begin with. As for mosfet class D amps (cheap power amps), you have a lot of output for the power they pull in, but finding one that that the THD is in the .01% range full range for full continues output of the amp, going to cost you huge money isntead. Fact is, when you start looking at the specs for class D amps, most will not even list the THD on the amp to begin with.
The bose amp is 9"x 5", so if your looking to put an amp in the same location, keep that in mind that your dealing with limited room.
I bring this up, since if your looking for a class D amp, the rockford fosgate punch and compact will fit where the bose amp sits no problem.
#14
Melting Slicks
The bose amp only puts out a stereo signal to the two small speakers in the doors. The speaker power output to the center speaker, the two rear speakers are mono, and the outputs to the door thumper speakers that have there own amps, is a mono signal as well.
So head unit can stay, the Bose amp in the passengers floor panel gets replaced with a new amp, and then speaker are replaced to work with the higher output of the new amp.
As for amp, pick you poison.
Myself, would just run with a two channel amp A/B Fret amp with THD in the .01% range, and not a Class D moffet amp that has THD levels in the +1. % instead.
On the system, would run 12db cross overs, balance out the speakers via resistors (for phasing too) and even with a dual wire cone sub woofer with a 12DB cross over, should be able to keep the load on amp above 2 ohms. Hence 200 watt class A/B amp (what is will put that much power out continuously , and not just a peak number went lighting strikes it instead), should be able to have clean 20-20K output at the 130db range with less than .01% THD (if the system is designed correctly).
Note, a huge fan of class A amps, but they pull a lot of power for the wattage output to begin with. As for mosfet class D amps (cheap power amps), you have a lot of output for the power they pull in, but finding one that that the THD is in the .01% range full range for full continues output of the amp, going to cost you huge money isntead. Fact is, when you start looking at the specs for class D amps, most will not even list the THD on the amp to begin with.
The bose amp is 9"x 5", so if your looking to put an amp in the same location, keep that in mind that your dealing with limited room.
I bring this up, since if your looking for a class D amp, the rockford fosgate punch and compact will fit where the bose amp sits no problem.
So head unit can stay, the Bose amp in the passengers floor panel gets replaced with a new amp, and then speaker are replaced to work with the higher output of the new amp.
As for amp, pick you poison.
Myself, would just run with a two channel amp A/B Fret amp with THD in the .01% range, and not a Class D moffet amp that has THD levels in the +1. % instead.
On the system, would run 12db cross overs, balance out the speakers via resistors (for phasing too) and even with a dual wire cone sub woofer with a 12DB cross over, should be able to keep the load on amp above 2 ohms. Hence 200 watt class A/B amp (what is will put that much power out continuously , and not just a peak number went lighting strikes it instead), should be able to have clean 20-20K output at the 130db range with less than .01% THD (if the system is designed correctly).
Note, a huge fan of class A amps, but they pull a lot of power for the wattage output to begin with. As for mosfet class D amps (cheap power amps), you have a lot of output for the power they pull in, but finding one that that the THD is in the .01% range full range for full continues output of the amp, going to cost you huge money isntead. Fact is, when you start looking at the specs for class D amps, most will not even list the THD on the amp to begin with.
The bose amp is 9"x 5", so if your looking to put an amp in the same location, keep that in mind that your dealing with limited room.
I bring this up, since if your looking for a class D amp, the rockford fosgate punch and compact will fit where the bose amp sits no problem.
#15
But neither here nor there, the OEM speakers are low power units, and you will burn them up with a higher output amp instead.
#16
Safety Car
Thanks!
Last edited by Vette_Fan; 06-26-2018 at 03:10 PM.
#17
Drifting
- JL XD700 amp
- Audison Bit ten DSP
- JL C5650 speakers
- JL C5525X speakers
- JL 10' Stealthbox sub
- JL remote level control
- Hushmat sound deadening in trunk and doors
#18
Le Mans Master
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Jim, how do you like the Audison Bit ten? I got a deal on a new AudioControl DM-608 DSP but I haven't installed it yet. Did you install it yourself and if so was the software user friendly? I was considering the Bit Ten at one point, heard good things about it. Curious about your thoughts on it and do you think it helped improve the sound of the 8200.
#19
Drifting
Jim, how do you like the Audison Bit ten? I got a deal on a new AudioControl DM-608 DSP but I haven't installed it yet. Did you install it yourself and if so was the software user friendly? I was considering the Bit Ten at one point, heard good things about it. Curious about your thoughts on it and do you think it helped improve the sound of the 8200.
Fred,
It's hard to say whether the Bit Ten improved the 8200 as it was installed prior so I never heard the 8200 alone. I didn't do the install. I have used Audison products before and presently have an Audison preamp running on my boat. They are quality products.
#20
Le Mans Master
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Thanks Jim. I actually did a search and read that you had originally installed the Audison when you still had the factory nav unit. I know I have seen a few of your posts about your 8200 and your audio system in the past. I just wanted to add that you have some nice audio gear installed. My guess is it sounds really good.