Cruise control just quit
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Cruise control just quit
Well my cruise control just quit. Can someone point me in the right direction to start? I know when the CC quit on my C4 it was due to a vacum leak so I am assuming that could be the issue here as well.
As always...........Thanks.
As always...........Thanks.
#2
Safety Car
I don't believe there is any vacuum involved in the C6 cruise control system. It uses the drive-by-wire throttle system.
Are these any codes present? If you have not done so already, probably best to start by scanning for codes.
Are these any codes present? If you have not done so already, probably best to start by scanning for codes.
#3
Race Director
It's most likely the multi-function switch stalk. No vacuum lines on the C6 cruise control.
#6
Melting Slicks
Occasionally the cruise control my Duramax will quit (I use the cruise control on my truck more often than my C6) and when that happens, it recycles when I restart the engine.
You might just try it again and see what happens.
You might just try it again and see what happens.
Last edited by LowRyter; 07-09-2018 at 05:10 PM.
#8
Burning Brakes
I had that randomly happen to ours last year and after checking fuses posted a request for advice on this forum. One reply suggested unhooking the battery for a time and I did just that. My wife and I went out for dinner and when we came home I hooked up the battery and took the car for a test drive and found the cruise control was working again.
#9
Race Car Tech
I had that randomly happen to ours last year and after checking fuses posted a request for advice on this forum. One reply suggested unhooking the battery for a time and I did just that. My wife and I went out for dinner and when we came home I hooked up the battery and took the car for a test drive and found the cruise control was working again.
PM me your e-mail and I can sens them along.
#10
Le Mans Master
Some faults will disable cruise control as a safety feature, though most of them should cause the traction control or ABS lamp to illuminate. Both conditions will result in stored codes, but they will not be visible to generic low-end code reader. You need a reader that can retrieve EBCM and BCM codes, like a Tech 2.
Unhooking the battery just clears fault conditions before you can retrieve them with a proper reader. It doesn't fix the underlying problem, and if it doesn't recur immediately, you'll never know what it actually was.
Unhooking the battery just clears fault conditions before you can retrieve them with a proper reader. It doesn't fix the underlying problem, and if it doesn't recur immediately, you'll never know what it actually was.
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Some faults will disable cruise control as a safety feature, though most of them should cause the traction control or ABS lamp to illuminate. Both conditions will result in stored codes, but they will not be visible to generic low-end code reader. You need a reader that can retrieve EBCM and BCM codes, like a Tech 2.
Unhooking the battery just clears fault conditions before you can retrieve them with a proper reader. It doesn't fix the underlying problem, and if it doesn't recur immediately, you'll never know what it actually was.
Unhooking the battery just clears fault conditions before you can retrieve them with a proper reader. It doesn't fix the underlying problem, and if it doesn't recur immediately, you'll never know what it actually was.
#12
As stated, really need a Tech II to pull the body/abs codes, since standard readers will not pull such codes.
As for the cruse system, if a M6 car, the top clutch pedal switch plays a major role in the system. Hence if you removed the clutch assist spring or it broke, the peddle may not be keeping the top switch pressed in/ the pedal coming all the way back up, and why the system will not engage. Hence when you first start to push the clutch pedal down, it removes the pressure from the top pedal switch to disengage the cruse control system.
So on a M6, you have the bottom clutch pedal switch to start the car, then the top pedal switch for the items like the cruse control system as well.
To note, on the base M6, if you come off the gas, the RPM's tend to hold for a micro second before they begin to drop as part of the ECM programing. If you touch the clutch pedal to depress the top switch, it will allow the RPMs to drop at a normal rate without that brief RPM hold isntead.
Also, with a tech II on the car, you can check the turn signal stalk to see if the problem is there a well.
As for the cruse system, if a M6 car, the top clutch pedal switch plays a major role in the system. Hence if you removed the clutch assist spring or it broke, the peddle may not be keeping the top switch pressed in/ the pedal coming all the way back up, and why the system will not engage. Hence when you first start to push the clutch pedal down, it removes the pressure from the top pedal switch to disengage the cruse control system.
So on a M6, you have the bottom clutch pedal switch to start the car, then the top pedal switch for the items like the cruse control system as well.
To note, on the base M6, if you come off the gas, the RPM's tend to hold for a micro second before they begin to drop as part of the ECM programing. If you touch the clutch pedal to depress the top switch, it will allow the RPMs to drop at a normal rate without that brief RPM hold isntead.
Also, with a tech II on the car, you can check the turn signal stalk to see if the problem is there a well.
#14
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Pearland / Houston Tx
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My cruise didn't work, brand new car, after taking museum delivery many years ago. On the drive home I stopped at a dealer.
It had a code...P0751...they cleaned the shift solenoid valve, a Tech2 procedure i believe.
It had a code...P0751...they cleaned the shift solenoid valve, a Tech2 procedure i believe.
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#15
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2010
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2016 C6 of Year Finalist
I still have the brand new multi-function switch. If an '07 Colorado fits an '07 Corvette it is yours for the shipping.
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Just got in from work and disconnected the battery. I'm going to try that first. If not and thanks to 4SUMERZ I now have the wiring schematic for the cruise control circuit and will dig deeper on Saturday. I will update when it is resolved. Anybody know how long to leave the batter disconnected?
#17
Drifting
Is the cruise control not turning on at all? Or is it engaging then disengaging?
Mine used to engage and disengage. Then I noticed my brake lights were lighting up even when I was off the pedal. I relearned the brake pedal switch with my Tech 2 and it resolved it.
Mine used to engage and disengage. Then I noticed my brake lights were lighting up even when I was off the pedal. I relearned the brake pedal switch with my Tech 2 and it resolved it.
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Not coming on at all. The brake pedal switch is something else I plan on checking saturday. I did just install new mats fro Loyds so maybe it knocked the switch loose. No telling. Relearn the switch? Sounds interesting but I don't own a tech 2 reader.
#20
Racer
A bit of a chore to have to wade through all of these posts, looking for someone to suggest using Dielectric grease on the connector. Find the electrical connector for the CC Stalk function, disconnect it, clean and apply Di-e grease to all of the connector tabs. Then reconnect the cable. Dano523 taught me this as the start of solving ANY electrical problem.
There is a connector for this somewhere ... isn't there?
(No offense Dan ... I'm ... uh ... kinda surprised you didn't add this in your post. Oh, I know! ... it's a test, isn't it? )
There is a connector for this somewhere ... isn't there?
(No offense Dan ... I'm ... uh ... kinda surprised you didn't add this in your post. Oh, I know! ... it's a test, isn't it? )
Last edited by vezePilot; 07-10-2018 at 10:24 PM.