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I just today put a set of Pilot Sport A/S 3s on the wifes C6. Run Flats... The original tires show a little more wear on the inside. I guess it should be Re Aligned but I have a question.
Will re alignment affect anything having to do with the Magnetic Ride Control, I mean when you change from Sport to Touring will the brain of the car recognize the change as being correct or will it set off all kinds of alarms within the control system? If so wouldn't it be wise to have the re alignment done by a dealer, or am I way off base here?
I just today put a set of Pilot Sport A/S 3s on the wifes C6. Run Flats... The original tires show a little more wear on the inside. I guess it should be Re Aligned but I have a question.
Will re alignment affect anything having to do with the Magnetic Ride Control, I mean when you change from Sport to Touring will the brain of the car recognize the change as being correct or will it set off all kinds of alarms within the control system? If so wouldn't it be wise to have the re alignment done by a dealer, or am I way off base here?
Thanks,
Alfred
The alignment will not affect any of the items that you mentioned. Any reputable shop can aligne your car so the tires do not wear on the inside. I had the exact same issue, and these are the before and after readings. I've had the new tires on for 2 years since the alignment, and even wear across all 4 tires.
I just today put a set of Pilot Sport A/S 3s on the wifes C6. Run Flats... The original tires show a little more wear on the inside. I guess it should be Re Aligned but I have a question.
Will re alignment affect anything having to do with the Magnetic Ride Control, I mean when you change from Sport to Touring will the brain of the car recognize the change as being correct or will it set off all kinds of alarms within the control system? If so wouldn't it be wise to have the re alignment done by a dealer, or am I way off base here?
Thanks,
Alfred
Get a precision alignment with PFADT settings. The factory alignment specs have too much variance (slop). it's pretty common to see the inside tread worn out but the alignment is within factory spec.
you might have to call around for a shop to perform a custom precision alignment.
Just went through the hassle. Took the Vette to a "chain" auto/tire center... $180.00 for a lifetime 4 wheel alignment. Picked it up and it still drifted to the right. Had them do it again, same results. Third time, same results. They were fair enough to refund the $180. They had all the latest equipment with computer printout etc... even said the machines were calibrated frequently. Finally I took the car to a locally owned shop that had a good, but expensive, reputation and paid then $90 for a 4 wheel alignment.. Now the car is hand free in any lane... rock solid.
The moral of the story? Draw your own conclusion.
Just went through the hassle. Took the Vette to a "chain" auto/tire center... $180.00 for a lifetime 4 wheel alignment. Picked it up and it still drifted to the right. Had them do it again, same results. Third time, same results. They were fair enough to refund the $180. They had all the latest equipment with computer printout etc... even said the machines were calibrated frequently. Finally I took the car to a locally owned shop that had a good, but expensive, reputation and paid then $90 for a 4 wheel alignment.. Now the car is hand free in any lane... rock solid.
The moral of the story? Draw your own conclusion.
Had mine done at my GMC dealer. My company does all their plumbing/HVAC work and buy all my vehicles from them. Looked like a laser light show. Tracks like it’s on rails.
I think it's a waste of money to get a factory spec alignment. Certainly any shop promising "lifetime alignment" will love it because they may never have to align the car, even if the tires are worn on the inside or it drifts to the left.
I know by experience that my left front was worn on the inside to the cord but it was still within alignment spec!
Get a precision alignment with PFAD specs or even dead centered on factory specs. The factory spec has too much slop.
I think it's a waste of money to get a factory spec alignment. Certainly any shop promising "lifetime alignment" will love it because they may never have to align the car, even if the tires are worn on the inside or it drifts to the left.
I know by experience that my left front was worn on the inside to the cord but it was still within alignment spec!
Get a precision alignment with PFAD specs or even dead centered on factory specs. The factory spec has too much slop.
That's what PFADT specs basically are. No need to go into a alignment place and make it more confusing by giving the tech specs to try and hit. Just set it to dead center of factory and you get the same thing. That's what I have always done with my GS and my tires have always worn even across with great handling.
That's what PFADT specs basically are. No need to go into a alignment place and make it more confusing by giving the tech specs to try and hit. Just set it to dead center of factory and you get the same thing. That's what I have always done with my GS and my tires have always worn even across with great handling.
close but not quite. There are some differences but PFADT is within the factory specs but not dead center in all 5 measurements. Anyway, close and consistent and precise.
Bottomline, don't settle for the slop in the factory tolerances. Get a precise alignment as closes as possible.
Last edited by LowRyter; Jul 19, 2018 at 10:30 PM.
close but not quite. There are some differences but PFADT is within the factory specs but not dead center in all 5 measurements. Anyway, close and consistent and precise.
Bottomline, don't settle for the slop in the factory tolerances. Get a precise alignment as closes as possible.
Take those specs and split the difference and pretty sure those are dead center GM specs.
In my Plumbing/HVAC business if someone makes the mistake of telling us how to fix something the immediate response is “if you know so much about it, fix it yourself”.