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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 02:40 PM
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Default A/C problem

Anyone had a problem with the A/C blowing warmer on one zone when both are set to the same temp? 2013
Driver zone blows warmer than passenger zone. As I said, both set to the same temp. Thanks...
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Zimmerman
Anyone had a problem with the A/C blowing warmer on one zone when both are set to the same temp? 2013
Driver zone blows warmer than passenger zone. As I said, both set to the same temp. Thanks...
Usually an indication of a low charge, do not attempt to refill without gauges. You will likely over fill it.
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaolin Crane
Usually an indication of a low charge, do not attempt to refill without gauges. You will likely over fill it.
Even if it is a dual zone. Guess it works differently than a standard a/c in most vehicles
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Old Jul 20, 2018 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Scooterzee
Even if it is a dual zone. Guess it works differently than a standard a/c in most vehicles
Start mechanical first, check to see if the compressor runs comsistently, them the charge. Gm vehicles when low for whatever reason will blow colder on the passenger side when low.
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 01:40 PM
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If. you lower the temp on the warm side does it cool better? what are the temperatures at the center ducts?

Last edited by hrt vlv; Jul 21, 2018 at 01:41 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Zimmerman
Anyone had a problem with the A/C blowing warmer on one zone when both are set to the same temp? 2013
Driver zone blows warmer than passenger zone. As I said, both set to the same temp. Thanks...
My 05 does it, I also hear a clicking sound behind the radio. I'm pretty sure my problem is the blend door actuator which I'm going to try to replace by myself. There is a comment and instructions on the forum about how to do it by going through the glove box and not having to remove the dash.
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Zimmerman
Anyone had a problem with the A/C blowing warmer on one zone when both are set to the same temp? 2013
Driver zone blows warmer than passenger zone. As I said, both set to the same temp. Thanks...

Yes, on my 2012 same problem. Had a leak in the system, but eventually had to put in a new compressor. Only 63,000 mi on the car. Not
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Old Jul 21, 2018 | 05:40 PM
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I'd guess low on freon or a sticky blend door in the duct system. But low freon is most likely the cause since a sticky blend door is only dispersing the air that the AC is producing. It doesn't produce two flavors, cool and semi cool, just directs what it gets to distribute throughout the cabin.

Compressor is possible but like above a bad or failing compressor most likely would not cool the passenger side more then the driver's side it would produce crap air for both sides. IMHO
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Shaolin Crane
Start mechanical first, check to see if the compressor runs comsistently, them the charge. Gm vehicles when low for whatever reason will blow colder on the passenger side when low.
Thanks. That's what I basically needed to know.
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MB2
My 05 does it, I also hear a clicking sound behind the radio. I'm pretty sure my problem is the blend door actuator which I'm going to try to replace by myself. There is a comment and instructions on the forum about how to do it by going through the glove box and not having to remove the dash.
Hope it is not the blend door.
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Old Jul 22, 2018 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by hrt vlv
If. you lower the temp on the warm side does it cool better? what are the temperatures at the center ducts?
The only time the driver side air gets cooler is when you go faster which says to me it is low on freon hopefully. But no, it is the same cool whether set at 60 or 70.
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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 06:20 PM
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Could the belt be slipping? The temperature in the center duct should be 38 deg. with fan on high and both doors open. Some of the refill canisters have a gauge, some have a sealant, some have a dye to make leaks more visible.
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hrt vlv
Could the belt be slipping? The temperature in the center duct should be 38 deg. with fan on high and both doors open. Some of the refill canisters have a gauge, some have a sealant, some have a dye to make leaks more visible.
Fixed the problem. Just needed a charge. Thanks

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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Scooterzee
Fixed the problem. Just needed a charge. Thanks
You didn’t fix the problem unless you located and repaired the leak. You temporarily put off what you need to do.
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by saplumr


You didn’t fix the problem unless you located and repaired the leak. You temporarily put off what you need to do.
It is a closed system, so charge=leak
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 10:22 AM
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Not always, sometimes a fluke temp change can result in a minor leak that seals back up. Sometimes service fittings can be rattled enough they bleed off a little, or the fitting start to dry out and that little amount on oil on them when hooking up gauges lubes them enough to seal.

Obviously if it does it again soon theres a major leak, but it's not always the case.
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by stingray71
It is a closed system, so charge=leak
Not necessarily. Sometimes if the leaks a small one the stop leak agent that comes in the/some freon will do a pretty good job of sealing the leak. I've had them stop for just a year or so, and i've had them stop for as long as I owned the car.
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaolin Crane
Not always, sometimes a fluke temp change can result in a minor leak that seals back up. Sometimes service fittings can be rattled enough they bleed off a little, or the fitting start to dry out and that little amount on oil on them when hooking up gauges lubes them enough to seal.

Obviously if it does it again soon theres a major leak, but it's not always the case.
I’ve been in the Plumbing/HVAC industry for 45 years and I have never seen a leak of any type fix itself.

Last edited by saplumr; Jul 26, 2018 at 01:06 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by saplumr


I’ve been in the Plumbing/HVAC industry for 45 years and I have never seen a leak of any type fix itself.
Service a lot of auto systems? Building systems operate differently as they don't have varying RPM on the compressor like one driven by an engine, which is the reason why almost all cars now have high pressure switches where standing systems dont. Plus it's located in a hot engine bay, pressures bounce all over the place in a car. I've charged systems that were on the low side that never leaked again, or systems that had leaking service fittings that stopped leaking after hooking up the gauges simply because they got a little oil.

I've had compressors that show proper pressures under vacuum and full charge but don't work because the comoressor design in a car allows back flow between the compressor shaft seals or slop in the veins.

A low system does not always mean it has a consistent leak. A high side switch that sticks, or a clutch that sticks can cause pressures to spike enough it bleeds past a seal, and lots of times that seal is fine.
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaolin Crane
Service a lot of auto systems? Building systems operate differently as they don't have varying RPM on the compressor like one driven by an engine, which is the reason why almost all cars now have high pressure switches where standing systems dont. Plus it's located in a hot engine bay, pressures bounce all over the place in a car. I've charged systems that were on the low side that never leaked again, or systems that had leaking service fittings that stopped leaking after hooking up the gauges simply because they got a little oil.

I've had compressors that show proper pressures under vacuum and full charge but don't work because the comoressor design in a car allows back flow between the compressor shaft seals or slop in the veins.

A low system does not always mean it has a consistent leak. A high side switch that sticks, or a clutch that sticks can cause pressures to spike enough it bleeds past a seal, and lots of times that seal is fine.
It really doesn’t matter what system you deal with. All refrigerant systems operate under huge pressure and temperature swings including ambient continuously.
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