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Anyone had a problem with the A/C blowing warmer on one zone when both are set to the same temp? 2013
Driver zone blows warmer than passenger zone. As I said, both set to the same temp. Thanks...
Anyone had a problem with the A/C blowing warmer on one zone when both are set to the same temp? 2013
Driver zone blows warmer than passenger zone. As I said, both set to the same temp. Thanks...
Usually an indication of a low charge, do not attempt to refill without gauges. You will likely over fill it.
Even if it is a dual zone. Guess it works differently than a standard a/c in most vehicles
Start mechanical first, check to see if the compressor runs comsistently, them the charge. Gm vehicles when low for whatever reason will blow colder on the passenger side when low.
Anyone had a problem with the A/C blowing warmer on one zone when both are set to the same temp? 2013
Driver zone blows warmer than passenger zone. As I said, both set to the same temp. Thanks...
My 05 does it, I also hear a clicking sound behind the radio. I'm pretty sure my problem is the blend door actuator which I'm going to try to replace by myself. There is a comment and instructions on the forum about how to do it by going through the glove box and not having to remove the dash.
Anyone had a problem with the A/C blowing warmer on one zone when both are set to the same temp? 2013
Driver zone blows warmer than passenger zone. As I said, both set to the same temp. Thanks...
Yes, on my 2012 same problem. Had a leak in the system, but eventually had to put in a new compressor. Only 63,000 mi on the car. Not
I'd guess low on freon or a sticky blend door in the duct system. But low freon is most likely the cause since a sticky blend door is only dispersing the air that the AC is producing. It doesn't produce two flavors, cool and semi cool, just directs what it gets to distribute throughout the cabin.
Compressor is possible but like above a bad or failing compressor most likely would not cool the passenger side more then the driver's side it would produce crap air for both sides. IMHO
Start mechanical first, check to see if the compressor runs comsistently, them the charge. Gm vehicles when low for whatever reason will blow colder on the passenger side when low.
My 05 does it, I also hear a clicking sound behind the radio. I'm pretty sure my problem is the blend door actuator which I'm going to try to replace by myself. There is a comment and instructions on the forum about how to do it by going through the glove box and not having to remove the dash.
If. you lower the temp on the warm side does it cool better? what are the temperatures at the center ducts?
The only time the driver side air gets cooler is when you go faster which says to me it is low on freon hopefully. But no, it is the same cool whether set at 60 or 70.
Could the belt be slipping? The temperature in the center duct should be 38 deg. with fan on high and both doors open. Some of the refill canisters have a gauge, some have a sealant, some have a dye to make leaks more visible.
Could the belt be slipping? The temperature in the center duct should be 38 deg. with fan on high and both doors open. Some of the refill canisters have a gauge, some have a sealant, some have a dye to make leaks more visible.
Not always, sometimes a fluke temp change can result in a minor leak that seals back up. Sometimes service fittings can be rattled enough they bleed off a little, or the fitting start to dry out and that little amount on oil on them when hooking up gauges lubes them enough to seal.
Obviously if it does it again soon theres a major leak, but it's not always the case.
Not necessarily. Sometimes if the leaks a small one the stop leak agent that comes in the/some freon will do a pretty good job of sealing the leak. I've had them stop for just a year or so, and i've had them stop for as long as I owned the car.
Not always, sometimes a fluke temp change can result in a minor leak that seals back up. Sometimes service fittings can be rattled enough they bleed off a little, or the fitting start to dry out and that little amount on oil on them when hooking up gauges lubes them enough to seal.
Obviously if it does it again soon theres a major leak, but it's not always the case.
I’ve been in the Plumbing/HVAC industry for 45 years and I have never seen a leak of any type fix itself.
I’ve been in the Plumbing/HVAC industry for 45 years and I have never seen a leak of any type fix itself.
Service a lot of auto systems? Building systems operate differently as they don't have varying RPM on the compressor like one driven by an engine, which is the reason why almost all cars now have high pressure switches where standing systems dont. Plus it's located in a hot engine bay, pressures bounce all over the place in a car. I've charged systems that were on the low side that never leaked again, or systems that had leaking service fittings that stopped leaking after hooking up the gauges simply because they got a little oil.
I've had compressors that show proper pressures under vacuum and full charge but don't work because the comoressor design in a car allows back flow between the compressor shaft seals or slop in the veins.
A low system does not always mean it has a consistent leak. A high side switch that sticks, or a clutch that sticks can cause pressures to spike enough it bleeds past a seal, and lots of times that seal is fine.
Service a lot of auto systems? Building systems operate differently as they don't have varying RPM on the compressor like one driven by an engine, which is the reason why almost all cars now have high pressure switches where standing systems dont. Plus it's located in a hot engine bay, pressures bounce all over the place in a car. I've charged systems that were on the low side that never leaked again, or systems that had leaking service fittings that stopped leaking after hooking up the gauges simply because they got a little oil.
I've had compressors that show proper pressures under vacuum and full charge but don't work because the comoressor design in a car allows back flow between the compressor shaft seals or slop in the veins.
A low system does not always mean it has a consistent leak. A high side switch that sticks, or a clutch that sticks can cause pressures to spike enough it bleeds past a seal, and lots of times that seal is fine.
It really doesn’t matter what system you deal with. All refrigerant systems operate under huge pressure and temperature swings including ambient continuously.