Help... Brake Line for Brake Calipers
08-28-2018, 02:25 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Help... Brake Line for Brake Calipers
Remove brake calipers to get them powder coated. Now I can't get the brake line to stop leaking fluid. Only in the front.
08-28-2018, 02:46 PM
#3
If powder coated, the part where the crush washer may have stayed on the caliper and was coated along with it. That spot should be bare metal and grooved in order to allow the crush washer to be shaped into a perfect seal when the bolt is tightened onto hose line.
So check both the caliper and the bolt area for old washers. Ensure that in the process of prepping the caliper they didn't sand blast it so much that the grooves which help form the seal were blasted away as well.
Finally as stated, new crush washers and bolts is a must.
So check both the caliper and the bolt area for old washers. Ensure that in the process of prepping the caliper they didn't sand blast it so much that the grooves which help form the seal were blasted away as well.
Finally as stated, new crush washers and bolts is a must.
Last edited by SladeX; 08-28-2018 at 02:47 PM.
08-28-2018, 02:55 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
I use New Bolts and Crush Washer still get a small drip. Didn't have no problems with the real ones just a front giving me trouble.
Last edited by z288uup; 08-28-2018 at 02:56 PM.
08-30-2018, 06:43 AM
#9
If the brake reserve tank when dry, then your going to need a Tech II to cycle the ABS pump to get the air out of it. Hence you can power bleed all you want, but until you purge the trapped air in the ABS pump by cycling it to pull fluid in, drive the trapped air out, your never going to get the brake pedal solid/not going to the floor instead.
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Blueleader (08-30-2018)
08-30-2018, 05:47 PM
#11
Instructor
If the brake reserve tank when dry, then your going to need a Tech II to cycle the ABS pump to get the air out of it. Hence you can power bleed all you want, but until you purge the trapped air in the ABS pump by cycling it to pull fluid in, drive the trapped air out, your never going to get the brake pedal solid/not going to the floor instead.
I need good advice and help, over 500 bucks paid and still a problem.....what should I do or direction to take. Maybe another mechanic?
Last edited by Blueleader; 08-30-2018 at 05:48 PM.
08-30-2018, 10:10 PM
#12
If you let all the brake fluid drain out of the tank out through the connectors when you had the calipers off, this allowed air to get into the ABS unit.
In the ABS unit is a pump that Active Handling uses with the ABS valves to send pressure to the brake calipors as needed to get the car straight again when AH activates.
So when you get air down to the ABS by letting all the fluid drain out of the brake system, you can bleed the system via power flushing or pedal pumping all you want, but it not going to drive the air out of the ABS pump.
So when the brake reserve tank/system goes dry with all the fluid draining out of it, you start with a power flush or brake pedal pumping to get most of air out of the lines to start with.
Next, you connect a tech II to the car, go to automated brake breed with the tool, and do the automated brake bleed process next.
What the tool will have you do one caliper at a time, is have you pump the pedal a few times with the specified caliber bleed valve open to make sure that there is fluid all the way from the tank threw the ABS unit to start with, then it's will next step by cycling the ABS pump to push the air out of it and down threw the line and out the open caliper bleed vavle. Once the abs pump has been cycled and tool tells you, you shut the bleeder vavle on that caliper, then go to the next caliper the tool specifies to do the same. Hence passenger back right caliper to start with, drivers back next, then passengers front, and lastly drivers front.
Once you have done the automated brake bleed for all 4 calipers, I like to go back and use the pedal to build up pressure with a few pedal pumps and have someone hold the pedal downward each caliper like your doing pedal pump bleeding, and go back in the same order one at a time to open each bleeder valve slightly to allow any last air that may be still be trapped in the caliper to be released, and bleeder valve closed before the brake pedal hits the floor each time. Hence the pedal pumps help to break any air bubbles still on the seals free, and this final pedal pressure hold each caliper step just makes sure these small air bubbles at the caliper are driven out of the system as well.
So again, ABS pump has to be cycled to drive the air out of it/ and the system, and the tool to do this is the Tech II via automated brake bleed procedure on the tool.
Note some other tools like the Snap on solus can be used to cycle the ABS pump as well.
And if your Mechanic does not know the above, that the ABS has a pump that needs to be cycled to get the air or even old fluid during a brake bleed out of the system, then go find another Mechanic that does know the Corvettes instead .
In the ABS unit is a pump that Active Handling uses with the ABS valves to send pressure to the brake calipors as needed to get the car straight again when AH activates.
So when you get air down to the ABS by letting all the fluid drain out of the brake system, you can bleed the system via power flushing or pedal pumping all you want, but it not going to drive the air out of the ABS pump.
So when the brake reserve tank/system goes dry with all the fluid draining out of it, you start with a power flush or brake pedal pumping to get most of air out of the lines to start with.
Next, you connect a tech II to the car, go to automated brake breed with the tool, and do the automated brake bleed process next.
What the tool will have you do one caliper at a time, is have you pump the pedal a few times with the specified caliber bleed valve open to make sure that there is fluid all the way from the tank threw the ABS unit to start with, then it's will next step by cycling the ABS pump to push the air out of it and down threw the line and out the open caliper bleed vavle. Once the abs pump has been cycled and tool tells you, you shut the bleeder vavle on that caliper, then go to the next caliper the tool specifies to do the same. Hence passenger back right caliper to start with, drivers back next, then passengers front, and lastly drivers front.
Once you have done the automated brake bleed for all 4 calipers, I like to go back and use the pedal to build up pressure with a few pedal pumps and have someone hold the pedal downward each caliper like your doing pedal pump bleeding, and go back in the same order one at a time to open each bleeder valve slightly to allow any last air that may be still be trapped in the caliper to be released, and bleeder valve closed before the brake pedal hits the floor each time. Hence the pedal pumps help to break any air bubbles still on the seals free, and this final pedal pressure hold each caliper step just makes sure these small air bubbles at the caliper are driven out of the system as well.
So again, ABS pump has to be cycled to drive the air out of it/ and the system, and the tool to do this is the Tech II via automated brake bleed procedure on the tool.
Note some other tools like the Snap on solus can be used to cycle the ABS pump as well.
And if your Mechanic does not know the above, that the ABS has a pump that needs to be cycled to get the air or even old fluid during a brake bleed out of the system, then go find another Mechanic that does know the Corvettes instead .
Last edited by Dano523; 08-30-2018 at 10:15 PM.
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joliett (09-01-2018)
08-30-2018, 10:36 PM
#13
Instructor
If you let all the brake fluid drain out of the tank out through the connectors when you had the calipers off, this allowed air to get into the ABS unit.
In the ABS unit is a pump that Active Handling uses with the ABS valves to send pressure to the brake calipors as needed to get the car straight again when AH activates.
So when you get air down to the ABS by letting all the fluid drain out of the brake system, you can bleed the system via power flushing or pedal pumping all you want, but it not going to drive the air out of the ABS pump.
So when the brake reserve tank/system goes dry with all the fluid draining out of it, you start with a power flush or brake pedal pumping to get most of air out of the lines to start with.
Next, you connect a tech II to the car, go to automated brake breed with the tool, and do the automated brake bleed process next.
What the tool will have you do one caliper at a time, is have you pump the pedal a few times with the specified caliber bleed valve open to make sure that there is fluid all the way from the tank threw the ABS unit to start with, then it's will next step by cycling the ABS pump to push the air out of it and down threw the line and out the open caliper bleed vavle. Once the abs pump has been cycled and tool tells you, you shut the bleeder vavle on that caliper, then go to the next caliper the tool specifies to do the same. Hence passenger back right caliper to start with, drivers back next, then passengers front, and lastly drivers front.
Once you have done the automated brake bleed for all 4 calipers, I like to go back and use the pedal to build up pressure with a few pedal pumps and have someone hold the pedal downward each caliper like your doing pedal pump bleeding, and go back in the same order one at a time to open each bleeder valve slightly to allow any last air that may be still be trapped in the caliper to be released, and bleeder valve closed before the brake pedal hits the floor each time. Hence the pedal pumps help to break any air bubbles still on the seals free, and this final pedal pressure hold each caliper step just makes sure these small air bubbles at the caliper are driven out of the system as well.
So again, ABS pump has to be cycled to drive the air out of it/ and the system, and the tool to do this is the Tech II via automated brake bleed procedure on the tool.
Note some other tools like the Snap on solus can be used to cycle the ABS pump as well.
And if your Mechanic does not know the above, that the ABS has a pump that needs to be cycled to get the air or even old fluid during a brake bleed out of the system, then go find another Mechanic that does know the Corvettes instead .
In the ABS unit is a pump that Active Handling uses with the ABS valves to send pressure to the brake calipors as needed to get the car straight again when AH activates.
So when you get air down to the ABS by letting all the fluid drain out of the brake system, you can bleed the system via power flushing or pedal pumping all you want, but it not going to drive the air out of the ABS pump.
So when the brake reserve tank/system goes dry with all the fluid draining out of it, you start with a power flush or brake pedal pumping to get most of air out of the lines to start with.
Next, you connect a tech II to the car, go to automated brake breed with the tool, and do the automated brake bleed process next.
What the tool will have you do one caliper at a time, is have you pump the pedal a few times with the specified caliber bleed valve open to make sure that there is fluid all the way from the tank threw the ABS unit to start with, then it's will next step by cycling the ABS pump to push the air out of it and down threw the line and out the open caliper bleed vavle. Once the abs pump has been cycled and tool tells you, you shut the bleeder vavle on that caliper, then go to the next caliper the tool specifies to do the same. Hence passenger back right caliper to start with, drivers back next, then passengers front, and lastly drivers front.
Once you have done the automated brake bleed for all 4 calipers, I like to go back and use the pedal to build up pressure with a few pedal pumps and have someone hold the pedal downward each caliper like your doing pedal pump bleeding, and go back in the same order one at a time to open each bleeder valve slightly to allow any last air that may be still be trapped in the caliper to be released, and bleeder valve closed before the brake pedal hits the floor each time. Hence the pedal pumps help to break any air bubbles still on the seals free, and this final pedal pressure hold each caliper step just makes sure these small air bubbles at the caliper are driven out of the system as well.
So again, ABS pump has to be cycled to drive the air out of it/ and the system, and the tool to do this is the Tech II via automated brake bleed procedure on the tool.
Note some other tools like the Snap on solus can be used to cycle the ABS pump as well.
And if your Mechanic does not know the above, that the ABS has a pump that needs to be cycled to get the air or even old fluid during a brake bleed out of the system, then go find another Mechanic that does know the Corvettes instead .
08-31-2018, 12:38 AM
#14
No worries, and if you are going to wrench on the C6 yourself, really need to get either a Tech II clone, or MDI clone device that can run Tech2win instead.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ternative.html
I have both, and tend to find myself using the VX GM nano with Tech2win a lot more that the tech II clone, since my laptop has a bigger screen, and easy to see now that I'm getting older. Plus, a lot off times you need to run SPS via TIS2000 for some items, so with a Tech II, you have to buy the USB cable to connect it to your laptop with Tis2000 set up in VM (tech II used as the pass through device), while with the VX GM Nano, it already comes with USB cable from the start, plus runs VM GDS2 for newer cars that you may be wrenching on that the Tech II does not cover isntead.
Hence dealer will charge you $125 to just connect a tech II to the car in the first place, and you can buy a VX GM nano and download all the needed software for free to have for your own for that price instead.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ternative.html
I have both, and tend to find myself using the VX GM nano with Tech2win a lot more that the tech II clone, since my laptop has a bigger screen, and easy to see now that I'm getting older. Plus, a lot off times you need to run SPS via TIS2000 for some items, so with a Tech II, you have to buy the USB cable to connect it to your laptop with Tis2000 set up in VM (tech II used as the pass through device), while with the VX GM Nano, it already comes with USB cable from the start, plus runs VM GDS2 for newer cars that you may be wrenching on that the Tech II does not cover isntead.
Hence dealer will charge you $125 to just connect a tech II to the car in the first place, and you can buy a VX GM nano and download all the needed software for free to have for your own for that price instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 08-31-2018 at 12:40 AM.
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Blueleader (08-31-2018)
08-31-2018, 09:40 AM
#15
I recently rebuilt my calipers and went through all this as well.
I didn't use a tech 2 to bleed the ABS though, here is what I did, just FYI:
- Gravity bleed the calipers once reconnected (with new washers)
- Pressure (Motive) bleed or 2-person bleed a bit more at each caliper
- The car should be driveable now despite the pedal not being 100% firm. Remember to pump the brakes a few times to seat the pads before moving it when you first fire it up!
- Drive the car and engage the ABS a few times. I did this while bedding my new pads. Bring it home and back on ramps/stands/etc.
- Pressure (Motive) bleed or 2-person bleed again at each caliper. You should get more air and likely some debris out of the lines.
- You're done! This got my pedal 100% firm again. Just again, be sure to pump the brakes before moving the car.
I didn't use a tech 2 to bleed the ABS though, here is what I did, just FYI:
- Gravity bleed the calipers once reconnected (with new washers)
- Pressure (Motive) bleed or 2-person bleed a bit more at each caliper
- The car should be driveable now despite the pedal not being 100% firm. Remember to pump the brakes a few times to seat the pads before moving it when you first fire it up!
- Drive the car and engage the ABS a few times. I did this while bedding my new pads. Bring it home and back on ramps/stands/etc.
- Pressure (Motive) bleed or 2-person bleed again at each caliper. You should get more air and likely some debris out of the lines.
- You're done! This got my pedal 100% firm again. Just again, be sure to pump the brakes before moving the car.
Last edited by anth115; 08-31-2018 at 09:40 AM.
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Blueleader (08-31-2018)