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Just bought a 2007 base with 70k miles. Went out to change this tee fitting and it literally crumbled apart while disassembling. Not sure how it even made it through the test drive before buying it last weekend. Had an extra one so in it goes tonight. Another warning... check the top side of the smaller diameter hose as well. Mine runs under the MAF sensor housing and I could see it had rubbed nearly through by touching that MAF all these years. Hose will get replaced tomorrow.
Just bought a 2007 base with 70k miles. Went out to change this tee fitting and it literally crumbled apart while disassembling. Not sure how it even made it through the test drive before buying it last weekend. Had an extra one so in it goes tonight. Another warning... check the top side of the smaller diameter hose as well. Mine runs under the MAF sensor housing and I could see it had rubbed nearly through by touching that MAF all these years. Hose will get replaced tomorrow.
^^ Just an FYI LS WON, my 2005 Z51 does have one of these and I ordered a SS tee to get this fixed. It was pretty much right under the intake as in the picture.
Actually, I did not take a picture of it... however, I will and post it from the old hose. I made the new one a bit longer so it curves around the MAF instead of under it.
^^ Just an FYI LS WON, my 2005 Z51 does have one of these and I ordered a SS tee to get this fixed. It was pretty much right under the intake as in the picture.
Notes:
-Plastic tee on my 2005 was just fine, dont think it has been replaced since
-Didnt need to take intake off
-Clamps on the tubes were biggest pain to do
-Lost about 3-4 cups of coolant
-Left tank open and warmed car up, revved with heat on full blast etc to remove any excess air and no issues
-All in all maybe took 20 - 30 mins
Notes:
-Plastic tee on my 2005 was just fine, dont think it has been replaced since
-Didnt need to take intake off
-Clamps on the tubes were biggest pain to do
-Lost about 3-4 cups of coolant
-Left tank open and warmed car up, revved with heat on full blast etc to remove any excess air and no issues
-All in all maybe took 20 - 30 mins
Wow... my tee swap went much easier than yours. It took 5 minutes and I lost maybe a tablespoon of coolant. I've never heard of anyone losing as much coolant as you when working on a cold system.
Wow... my tee swap went much easier than yours. It took 5 minutes and I lost maybe a tablespoon of coolant. I've never heard of anyone losing as much coolant as you when working on a cold system.
hmm not sure Ice, yeah I was pretty surprised as well with what people in this thread said...hopefully not indicative of an issue.
Oh and think much of my time was dealing with the cold clamps as they were on there a good bit as well as getting the air (if any) out of the line. This definitely wasn't a difficult job by any stretch.
Last edited by ssg10587; Oct 27, 2020 at 01:52 PM.
Notes:
-Plastic tee on my 2005 was just fine, dont think it has been replaced since
-Didnt need to take intake off
-Clamps on the tubes were biggest pain to do
-Lost about 3-4 cups of coolant
-Left tank open and warmed car up, revved with heat on full blast etc to remove any excess air and no issues
-All in all maybe took 20 - 30 mins
I"ll add to this since there is good info here. I went with grainger on this and will assume all will work well with it. Originally ordered a stainless barbed tee from ebay but decided against the barbs, partially since it hasn't arrived yet and not a big fan of silicone type hose and barbs..
the item I ordered is parker union tee 224-8-8-6.. if its not good I'll report back
EDIT: dont buy this parker tee.. its too short on the 3/8” sides.. going with the stainless versions which appears to be longer(i dont see any complaints)
The stainless looks to be Lancer 01-0527/01 Tee, its for beverage dispensers so possibly available at local restaurant supply stores
Last edited by KennyPowers; Jan 25, 2023 at 10:26 AM.
Another member here mentioned not to use brass fittings in the coolant system as brass don't react good with coolant.
I am going to have to raise the bull-**** flag on that comment . . .
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Is antifreeze compatible with brass fittings.
When it comes to plumbing, there are a lot of different materials that can be used for fittings. Copper, PVC, and brass are all common choices. However, each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. Brass is a particularly popular choice because it is strong and durable. It is also resistant to crumbles, which is important in plumbing. However, one downside of brass is that it is not compatible with all types of antifreeze. In particular, the brass should not be used with antifreeze that contains silicates. Silicates can cause crumbles in brass, which can lead to leaks. As a result, it is important to check the compatibility of your antifreeze before using brass.
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It's just a $10.00 part and if you replace it with the non factory one (plastic?) it would seem this improved part will last forever. It's too bad GM doesn't replace these parts that break through time with parts that will last alot longer than the original parts.
My original (2007) plastic "T" broke off on one side last year while I was pulling into my driveway (very fortunate) Bought the replacement at Home Depot, $4.74......repalced in less than 10 minutes......easy peezie........
Thanks to all the C6 gurus for this thread. I'm replacing my cracked factory radiator with the Dewitt and my T connector was cracked and fell apart.
The Chevy house said they could only sell the T as part of the whole assembly with hoses for $110. (Part #1030-5352)
I was able to clean out the broken chunks with a needle nose, pick tool, and patience. (the trick is to blow out the hose from the other end)
Napa, O'Reilly, and Ace didn't have it - had to order a brass one from Amazon to get it tomorrow. Great avatars
Last edited by tejanojavi; Jun 23, 2023 at 02:00 PM.
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