Oil Change Before or After Storage
#1
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Oil Change Before or After Storage
This is the second year I will be storing my C6 for approximately five months. Last year I changed the oil just prior to storing the vehicle. So my question is.....change the oil before I store the vehicle? Or change the oil when I pull it out of storage?
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tdog11 (11-20-2018)
#4
Race Car Tech
Yes, refer to the recent thread posted. It has all of the answers
#5
Drifting
What's funny about these oil change/storage questions is a majority of forum members have their cars in storage year round. Their cars just happen to be stored in their garages with the intent to drive, but the cars only get the occasional glance or wax....all the while the oil sits there the same as it would if it was in storage for months on end.
#6
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
#7
Melting Slicks
The general rule of thumb is change it before you store it, that way it does not sit for 5 months with acids & water in the oil. The oil won't care if it spends 5 months in a bottle or 5 months in your engine.
#9
I have 2 Grand Sports -- in another thread last year I posted I would change the oil in one of them before Winter Storage and the other one After Winter Storage.. I did that -- and can tell you they both run the same and are still perfect. So Flip a coin on yours it makes no difference,
Last edited by C6 Snowboarder; 11-12-2018 at 08:11 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
No it's a giant waste of money oil doesn't wear out or get dirty sitting in an engine.
#11
Acids in oil will etch into bearings over time and will leave a line on the bearings and engine components that sit half in and half out of the oil. The only way you would know this would be if you took the engine apart and inspected it. Acids form from moisture and blow by gasses in your oil. So if you're going to change it, do it before you store it so the oil is clean and fresh.
And resist the temptation to start your engine if you aren't going to drive the car, because starting it will draw more condensation into the oil. Don't start it unless you are going to drive the car 30-50 miles and get the oil up above 212 degrees and hold it at that temp long enough to cook off any moisture in it.
And resist the temptation to start your engine if you aren't going to drive the car, because starting it will draw more condensation into the oil. Don't start it unless you are going to drive the car 30-50 miles and get the oil up above 212 degrees and hold it at that temp long enough to cook off any moisture in it.
#12
I have 2 Grand Sports -- in another thread last year I posted I would change the oil in one of them before Winter Storage and the other one After Winter Storage.. I did that -- and can tell you they both run the same and are still perfect. So Flip a coin on yours it makes no difference,
#13
No offense meant, but this is flawed logic. Just because both cars start and run and don't have problems is not proof that it makes no difference. All it proves is that there is no damage to the engine that prevents it from running. If I have a car that blows an engine and throws a rod through the block right after an oil change, then by this same logic I can say that you should never change your oil, because it will cause your engine to blow up.
You really think changing the oil based on Pre-storage or Post- storage has anything to do with engine life?
#15
I can't say for sure one way or the other without tearing engines apart and inspecting them, and neither can anyone else. That's my point. It's folly to speculate. All I can say for sure is that acid build up in oil can etch the parts that sit in it. Whether that etching is enough to cause a problem, I don't know.
Last edited by CSixDude; 11-13-2018 at 12:35 PM.
#16
I can't say for sure one way or the other without tearing engines apart and inspecting them, and neither can anyone else. That's my point. It's folly to speculate. All I can say for sure is that acid build up in oil can etch the parts that sit in it. Whether that etching is enough to cause a problem, I don't know.
Washer fluid can oxidize so change that every 2 months.. be sure to flush the tank with Isopropyl alcohol before re-filling with fresh blue hue washer fluid. be sure to filter it as you add it.
And the air in the tires -- if more than 1 year old -- change that with fresh low as in less than 20% humidity air.
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airmed2 (11-16-2018)
#17
Melting Slicks
You forgot blinker fluid.