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Yes,cross drilled rotors can be resurfaced on a brake/drum lathe.
My brother in-law and I machined all 4 brake rotors for my 2011 Grand Sport. There was more than enough material on the rotors to machined.
The trick is to use a carbide insert with a radius nose lathe bit when you have a interrupted cut.
In other words "No Problemo"
Last edited by cyclesailor955; Nov 19, 2018 at 07:54 AM.
I have a 2010 Grand Sport with the original brakes and rotors on still... I know its been 9 years but there are only 23K miles on it.
Does anyone know how thick the rotors have to be before replacing them?
you can easily go 50k miles on the brake rotors and pads on the street.
i have 128k miles and i changed the brake rotors and pads at over 50k miles, then at around 110k miles i changed just the pads...
the rotors were fine and i didnt even have them cut..
youve got years and years before you need rotors and pads im sure.
Most likely not bedded properly and "contaminated" the rotor surface. Re-bedding CAN cure this.
Drilled stock Z51 rotors aren't $75 each. Closer to $200.
That said, my stock Z51 rotors and pads pretty much took each other out equally. Rotors were basically at the minimum limit (without turning), when the pads were due to be replaced. You get right close to 1mm per side (inside and outside) on C6 rotors. If the little ridge is approaching 1mm, plan on rotors.
Where in this world did you come up with those prices. They are $64.00 each!
Where in this world did you come up with those prices. They are $64.00 each!
This is what I paid for Z51 AC Delco rotors when I replaced mine. RA has them competitively priced as well. You can spend $200 each if you want, but absolutely no reason to do so on a street car. It's about the same as putting on a $500 ATI HB when a less than $200 Powerbond does the same job on anything less than a full blown race engine.
Last edited by BlindSpot; Nov 19, 2018 at 08:30 AM.
It is nearly useless trying to educate people about "warped" rotors. I tried a few years ago, got into an argument about it and decided the hell with it. Maybe all of us on this thread can help out.
Another thought if you've developed hard spots on your rotors, instead of turning them, sand them down with a sanding block and 120 grit wet/dry sand paper. You won't take much metal off and you will see they are actually fairly soft so it is easy to get a cross hatch pattern. Then properly re-bed your new pads.
Another thought (I haven't tried this but it may work) if you are a track rat, your track pads have the ability to scrape and burn off hard spots. They will squeal a lot in the process. between my track and street pads (Carbotech), the compounds are compatible so switching is simplified, and I've never developed hard spots on the rotors. I also do NOT use drilled rotors, slotted only or plain. Look at the professional race cars for examples.
While it can certainly be done, It is virtually impossible to find a shop to cut drilled/slotted rotors. They will claim it will break the cutter on their lathe but this is because their staff lacks the proper skill/knowledge.
I gave up and bought new ones. They are reasonably priced.
This is what I paid for Z51 AC Delco rotors when I replaced mine. RA has them competitively priced as well. You can spend $200 each if you want, but absolutely no reason to do so on a street car. It's about the same as putting on a $500 ATI HB when a less than $200 Powerbond does the same job on anything less than a full blown race engine.
I agree! My rotors, ACDelco for a 2013 GS were $75 each from Summit although they were available from multiple GM on-line sources also. Here is a link for one that is $70 now. https://www.iamgmparts.com/oem-parts...YtMmwtdjgtZ2Fz
Priced Delco J55 drilled rotors on Rockauto and all 4 were $230 shipped. New rotors allow you to put things back together as you take them apart instead of stopping to run to the auto parts store and waiting to get them turned and hoping they do a good job.
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