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Unless I'm mistaken the C6 has a solid flywheel that can be resurfaced instead of having to replace it. If you are going to replace it anyway, I'd suggest going with a lightweight flywheel. You'll want to add new bolts to your list as you don't want to reuse the old ones.
Unless you're really really mechanical inclined, I don't think this is a job for an individual, I consider myself that guy but I'm having Vengeance Racing do my clutch when needed, already got my quote, its about a $2000 job and worth every penny! It's a very difficult job if you haven't done them or have lift etc...
As my understanding is that all LSx applications on the C6 vette use the Z06/LS7 clutch kit? (except the ZR1)
Need to replace a bad T/O bearing so figured I'd learn myself up on the clutch system.
What I've gathered so far is that a full clutch replacement needs:
Flywheel (not included in clutch kits?) or resurface OEM
Pressure Plate
Disc
T/O bearing
Pilot bearing Clutch bolts (added)
am I missing anything? Been searching around and nothing seems to stay consistent.
An LS7 clutch kit will come with the proper flywheel. I would recommend a remote bleeder also. It will allow you to very easily bleed the system and you pretty much can only install it when the drive train is out to replace the slave cylinder. Tick Performance has a nice one.
Tick performance also sells a shim kit for the slave cylinder. There is a tolerance for the slave to pressure plate distance (or something like that). Here is the link to the kit on Tick: https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...im-kit-3-pack/ You may not need to shim it but just in case.
Also, as far as the job, it is not difficult in that it is not complicated. It is just that you need to disassembly most of the drive line to get to the clutch. A lift is a nice luxury most do not have. But you can do this on jack stands in a weekend. I did exactly this. Drove my C5 Z06 up onto ramps then jacked the rear up and placed on jack stands. Used a couple of Harbor Freight scissor jacks to support the trans and torque tube after removing the rear cradle. I did it all by myself. A lot of work but very doable.
I cannot remember where I found this on the forum but I have attached a PDF that someone made detailing the clutch replacement. It is on a C5 but will be applicable to a C6.
Another thing I just thought of. If you go with an LS7 clutch kit, the fly wheel will have metal pins that will align with the pressure plate. The metal pins are not bottomed out in their holes and this won't allow the clutch assembly to be installed with the bell housing still on the engine. But there is an easy solution and you do not need to remove the bell housing. You simply use a hammer to fully seat the pins and this will give enough clearance of the bell housing.
Also, I recommend a pilot bearing puller. It will make removing the old bearing a lot easier and save a lot of time. I used a slide hammer type puller and it only took a couple of good, solid hits to remove the bearing.
T/O bearing diagnosis is based on the feel of when it occurs. It sounds like the only time it occurs is when the fingers on the pressure plate (or disc?) when slowly re-engaging the bearing into a lower gear. It's a heavy grinding noise- but completely stops when the clutch is engaged/disengaged. Also stops occurring when the car has been driven for a while, another symptom of a bad t/o bearing I have read.
I have to replace a rear wheel bearing also, so I figured it'll be two fixes with one removal of the rear. I just wish I could find a diagram of every piece that a clutch includes. Some have a flywheel, some dont, some mention the bolts, some dont, etc.. Some dont even mention the t/o bearing.
The bonus here is that I can get onto a military base to use a hydraulic 2 post/4 point lift and they have literally everything a shop would have. Also, a mechanic buddy of mine just quit his job and is looking for a few side gigs.
I had to have my clutch replaced on my Camaro also has a LS3 setup. I used Monster clutch parts and are very happy with the results. Also installed a remote bleeder as well.
Im not very mechanically inclined and decided to attempt it myself as well, did it on my drive way with jack stands and a low pro jack from harbor freight. Its not that hard, i actually found it better on jack stands. if i were to do it on a lift i would of had to buy some of those really long jackstands for the rear end. It is time consuming though. took me a whole weekend by myself and had to rent some tools from my autoparts store.
I did it in my FRC. More time intensive than difficult. Had it done in a weekend with a TT rebuild. Transmission jack and a furniture dolly were the only real specialty tools involved.
Clutch replacement
