When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I used mothers VLR to clean it up when I bought it and it worked great. Spray, microfiber it in, wait a minute and then buff off. For interior I really like it especially for like $7 for a thing of it.
I just use a slightly damp cloth as well, but am I the only one that uses a sun shade? Just make sure there are no chips in the windshield as the extra heat can cause them to crack.
I just use a slightly damp cloth as well, but am I the only one that uses a sun shade? Just make sure there are no chips in the windshield as the extra heat can cause them to crack.
Funny you mentioned it, as I was about to mention. The only real UV protection is a windshield screen if you're really concerned about dashboard damage. In fact, putting a "topical" on the dashboard can work in reverse and do more harm when the bright sun heats up the dash surface to an untouchable temp and the topical magnifies the temp further.
Like sunscreen vs. a hat and long sleeves, the only real guarantee is a physical block. I have these for all of my cars and all are either in a garage, or have the windshield screen in place......I do that, and I really don't keep any cars forever.
Laminated windshield glass blocks 98 - 99 % of UV rays. Since the rear window and side windows are just tempered glass, they block around 65%, unless they are tinted or treated in some way, in which case they will block more. My opinion is that most of the damage to the dash pad caused by the sun is due to heat and not UV, because the light frequencies that do penetrate the glass are 'soaked up' by the darker colors, black being the worst, and that most of the heat damage enters via the windshield. Unless of course you have the root off, or top down, and leave your vette to bake in the sun until it's well-done. A glass roof doesn't help the situation either, unless you have a shade.
Last edited by FatsWaller; 01-21-2019 at 10:40 AM.
Well I stand corrected. If I EVER use a product on my dash it is this and maybe 5-10% of the time, so I don't know if your actually getting any protection even thou I just read it does have uv protection although it doesn't say it on the bottle. This product cleans but NO shine and NO grease.
I've worked with leather for about 60 years. The best thing for leather is mink oil. I was putting it on all my cars dashboards. It is thick and hard to work with but it stays shiny and lasts. Most other cleaners don't last.
But I found this cream that is made by Formula 1 that is called Mr. Leather. It has mink oil in it and is really nice to work with. Plus it stays shiny and lasts for months.
It is hard to find in stores. But it's great. It turned my dull 78 dash into looking new.
I've worked with leather for about 60 years. The best thing for leather is mink oil. I was putting it on all my cars dashboards. It is thick and hard to work with but it stays shiny and lasts. Most other cleaners don't last.
But I found this cream that is made by Formula 1 that is called Mr. Leather. It has mink oil in it and is really nice to work with. Plus it stays shiny and lasts for months.
It is hard to find in stores. But it's great. It turned my dull 78 dash into looking new.
I love it.
I have used mink oil on my leather dress shoes and my very expensive boots for many years,,,As for as the vette i got Pinnacle Leather conditioner from Autogeek and it has mink oil in it.Only need to use it every two years or so if you have a garage.
I have used mink oil on my leather dress shoes and my very expensive boots for many years,,,As for as the vette i got Pinnacle Leather conditioner from Autogeek and it has mink oil in it.Only need to use it every two years or so if you have a garage.
Hey, thanks. I'll have to check that out. Mr. Leather is really hard to find. So I'll give it a try.
Nu-Vinyl is named as it is because when you put it on vinyl it looks like....(wait for it)....new vinyl. It is a polymer protectant which goes on easy, let dry (minutes) and no buffing required. It doesn't peel or chip, won't yellow, and protects from UV rays. I've used it on vinyl, plastics, rubber, even leather for over 30 years; and it is the single best product for interiors that I have ever used. If you've never tried it, you don't know what you're missing.
A few members here have stated they've used aftermarket leather care products for the last 30 to 60 years. Vinyl and leather products used in car interiors today are nothing like the interior products that were used in 1959. Modern leather and color matching vinyl is basically "spray painted" often with a water soluble colorant or dye. This colorant seals the leather pores completely so the actual leather absorbs nothing and is why every car manufacturer recommends using nothing but a damp cloth to remove any dust accumulated on the surface and warn against aftermarket products.
Most of the products out there only lay on top of the paint and slowly (or quickly) work to erode or dissolve it. Once it's gone, then the real leather starts to become exposed and, from my 30 years' experience making some of these mistakes, the real leather underneath isn't pretty and won't look anything like the color of the interior. One of the most abused locations and fastest to deteriorate is the driver's seat bolsters and the first place to observe whether the aftermarket product you're choosing to use is working against the factory painted surface. I know most of the discussion here is about the dash board, most of which are vinyl and only a few are leather.
Still, it's your car and I am not trying to change someone's mind who has done the same thing for 30, 40 ,50 ,60 years, but for anyone on the fence I'm only suggesting at least start with the owner's manual (any manufacturer). There is no conspiracy by car companies to recommend care that would prematurely ruin your interior so you're forced to replace it and they can sell you a new one. Also recommend doing a little research on it. Don't take my word (and I know many won't). Use smart research and avoid getting caught up in after-marketing made to look like scientific results.
"One of the most abused locations and fastest to deteriorate is the driver's seat bolsters and the first place to observe whether the aftermarket product you're choosing to use is working against the factory painted surface."
Don't you think the bolster wears out because of all use it gets from the driver sliding in and out of the seat over a period of years? I am not disagreeing with you that some products may be more harmful than good but I am not sure the bolster is a good measuring stick?
I worked in the tier one OEM seating business as a Quality Engineer and Quality Manager for 20+ years. Almost 100% of today's leather has a vinyl coating on top of the leather. I could bore you with the details of the testing involved in getting both seating trim (covers) and complete seats approved but suffice it to say, the test requirements are fairly stringent.
The owner's manual got it correct, and is why I only use a damp towel to wipe things off.
"One of the most abused locations and fastest to deteriorate is the driver's seat bolsters and the first place to observe whether the aftermarket product you're choosing to use is working against the factory painted surface."
Don't you think the bolster wears out because of all use it gets from the driver sliding in and out of the seat over a period of years? I am not disagreeing with you that some products may be more harmful than good but I am not sure the bolster is a good measuring stick?
Agreed, but let's apply the same logic to the dashboard. Put a product on the dash that might eventually chemically break down the paint, only now lets take a power buffer to it with enough pressure to equal the weight of the driver getting in/out over the bolster to simulate that wear. In other words, you're taking the highest wear place in the entire interior and applying a product that might also be destroying the topcoat, and grinding that in with body weight.
The hard to answer question is - after years of wear on an interior that had no aftermarket products applied, compared to one that did with equal use, would the first example leave the seat bolsters in better shape?
01-21-2019, 12:27 AM
I have used mink oil on my leather dress shoes and my very expensive boots for many years,,,As for as the vette i got Pinnacle Leather conditioner from Autogeek and it has mink oil in it.Only need to use it every two years or so if you have a garage.
It is a polymer protectant which goes on easy, let dry (minutes) and no buffing required. It doesn't peel or chip, won't yellow, and protects from UV rays. I've used it on vinyl, plastics, rubber, even leather for over 30 years; and it is the single best product for interiors that I have ever used. If you've never tried it, you don't know what you're missing.
