Fighta

I just got my ARH headers back from being ceramic coated. I took out all the plugs and wires, disconnected the original mid pipe and im left with the manifold/catalytic converter. The problem i see is that the rear o2 sensors are still connected and i have no earthly idea how i can get it disconnected. Im stuck on both driver and passenger sides. Any advice on what i should do?

Fighta

ok update i disconnected the manifold from the cats. So the manifold is out but the cat is still connected to the rear o2 sensor that i cant seem to unplug. I am trying not to have to cut it to make this work

Dutch08

If I remember (and that's saying something!) there is a plastic pin that prevents the tab that clips to the plug housing from moving. You'll have to pull out the (blue??) pin before you can press the tab to pull the connector apart.

Fighta

I sat under the car and had to keep calm and look and found that blue pin that held it in and was able to pull it out.

Fighta

Well now It does look like i have to remove the starter in order to put the headers in unless im missing something..

K-Spaz

Yes, starter absolutely has to come out. Not a big deal.

Fighta

Do i just unbolt the 2 bolts holding it in and it come down and i can unplug that one wire to the solenoid?

Fighta

Ok starter is out but damn i cant get the header in on the passenger side. Is there anything else i should be removing?

Dano523

Headers install from the bottom of the car upwards.
So make sure you have the car up high enough on jacks so you can install the headers from the bottom of the car.

Also, help to have assist with the header bolts to the heads while you hold the headers in place under the car.


As for electronics, may need pre o2 sensor extension cables. the rear O2 ports in the X pipe will get plugged, and the rear O2 sensors will be turned off in the tune.
Hence pre 02 sensors are used for close loop, so they have to be installed, but the post O2 sensors are only used to monitor the cats, and with the cats pushed back off the heads in their new position on the X pipe (high flow cats), will not get the needed differential reading needed pre and post O2 sensors, and car will throw codes for the cats not being effective enough.

Also, with the amount of heat that the headers are going to generate, you need to get a heat shield on the starter or you going to have problems with the starter solenoid terminal cracking off !!!!!!

Dutch08

Since this looks to be a DIY job and because I'm thinking about it, I would appreciate it if you could please document your problems, what you did, the headers (brand) and parts you purchased if any. Thanks for the pictures so far !!

Fighta

This is DIY and im by myself. I got the driver side header up and in and its on the bolts just not torqued down yet until i can get the xpipe in. I am having a hell of a time trying to get the passneger side in. The starter is out everything looks to be out of the way but it feels like this damn header is too big.

biker1059

Go in from the top. As far as the O2 in the stock exhaust manifold, there is a speacial socket you can get at the auto parts or Harbor freight store that will remove it easily. Cost about $8
https://www.harborfreight.com/78-in-...ket-63702.html

Fighta

it wont work from the top i have tried. I am about to throw this header into the fender...

Fighta

i have tried to go in at every single angle...the right side keeps hitting the clutch housing or if i do get it passed the clutch housing it gets stuck on the other side..

Fighta

Also the car is lifted about 30 inches off the ground unless im lifting it wrong i dont see how the passenger header can go in..anyone live in Leander/Crystall falls area ??

Garry in AZ

Sometimes you have to loosen one or both motor mounts and jack the motor up about an inch or so to get the required clearance.

K-Spaz

I didn't have the trouble you're having. Passengers side (once the starter was removed) was a slam dunk. Had all sorts of room. You've got the car plenty high. I seem to recall the drivers side going in from underneath and the passengers side going in from up top. But still, starter needed removed. Been a while, I might be thinking reversed on that.

K-Spaz

Most of all, don't get frustrated and do something stupid. As was already mentioned above, you might need to loosen a motor mount and jack the motor up ever so slightly to make room. Just be patient and get them in without making a mess of the coating.

86SC

put it up on an angle, so that the collector is almost under the oil pan.

not sure about ARH but my kooks went in like butter from underneath. i did not remove anything outside of the factory exhaust. the starter was still in place. i did this on a quickjack whatever the max height is.

Dutch08

Take a good look at this idea. I just did my clutch and lowered my engine by dropping cradle down about an inch on the cradle bolts. I then had access to the bellhousing bolts and did notice that it gave good access to exhaust manifold and the head.

So take a look and see up or down it might give you the little bit extra you need.