When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The Corvette C6 doesn't have a coolant level sensor. Coolant level is a calculation done by comparing coolant temperature to RPM to determine if the proper level of coolant is present based on what the car is doing. In the event of a level issue being reported when the correct level of coolant can be observed in the reservoir, the dealer is able to recalibrate the table in the HVAC module (which is where the calculations are done for the coolant level algorithm.)
Is the coolant level OK in the overflow reservoir? If so, it there could be an air bubble trapped in the system. You can try adding just a bit more coolant in the tank, to see if that solves it.
It could also be caused by a coolant temp sensor starting to fail.
Either air in the system, or your temp sensor is going south/has a wiring problem.
Hence no real coolant level sensor, so the system is working off how fast up and down the dexcool temp sensor is reading the coolant temp changes instead.
So to get the air out of the system, really need to put a vacuum on the tank to draw any air out of the system.
Regarding the temp sensor, it's located in the front side of the drivers engine head.
Since the temp sensors are cheap to begin with, would just replace the sensor, make sure you don't have a problem with the connector to it and it wires back, then would put the vacuum on the raditor tank to draw any air out of the system. Also, and if you don't know when the last time the radiator was flushed, would pick up a new thermostat, some distilled water, and some Dexcool to do a power flush on the system to start with. Hence if t Stat is stuck open, or binding as it trying to open, will cause problem with either temp coming up too slow or too fast, and this is going to cause the low coolant message/error as well.
On the flush, short version is to drain the system, pull the T-stat and put the snot back on*, fill the system with straight distilled water to let the motor run for about 15 mins, then flush the distilled water out. If the water comes out less then clear, do another straight distilled water flush again. Now as you are flushing the system, make sure to pull the heater coil water lines so you can back/reverse flush it as well (flow water through the heater core in the opposite direction that the pump would be pushing water through it to remove any debris trapped in the coils).
* when you are pulling the T stat, use a light and look at the back of pulley and bottom of the pump for any signs of leakage. If the pump is bad enough, will have a major leak signs on the the bottom of it, but if the pump is just starting to go out,will be from the back side of the pulley where it leaking through the shaft bushing instead.
At this point, install the new T stat with the Weep channel upwards, fill the system with 50/50 Dexcool, and put the a vacuum on the tank as the motor is idling so any air in the system is sucked upward back into the tank.
The only other thing that would cause such, would be a blown/leaking head gasket, and that one is easy to catch since it going to put either coolant into the oil, or oil into the coolant instead (one of them is going to look like it has mayonnaise in it when coolant and oil mix).
