I have a 2006 with auto passive unlock. Issue I have is when I walk up to the car Auto Unlock will not unlock the drivers door. However it will unlock the passenger door. I check the DIC settings there all good. I replaced the door switch that didn’t do it.

 

Will the door open/unlock if you push the unlock button on the fob? Can you hear any clicking noise? Also, when you say you replaced the "door switch", were you referring to the touch pad?

BTW, welcome to the forum. Just for reference, adding more info in your profile about your car and your city/state, will help you get more responses from other members.

 

Yes I have to unlock it by the FOB. Touch pad was replaced.

 

Sorry yes I hear a clicking noise. Thank you glade to join.

 

You may have a weak battery in the fob. They start to fail when they get below 3.1 volts and are on death's doorstep if they manage to survive under 3.0. The sending/receiving antenna is near the bottom of the halo and the range with a good battery is only about 3' passively. You can get more than 200' range actively pushing a fob button. Other RFI can also be responsible for diminished range, including a cell phone, failing transformers, fluorescent lights, etc.

 

I changed the battery I made sure I’m not near any WiFi or other interference. Still the problem exist

 

You may want to check the contact points on the touch pads. They may slow down or stop after a while and need cleaned. A cheap eraser will clean them off.

 

I’ll try that thanks. I did however install a new touch pad switch. I will check the connections at the wires.

 

Lets get this straight out the gate, and there is no physical door locks on the car.

The low down, you push/pull the door pad, it sends a signal to the BCM to look for the FOB via the RCDLR, and if fob is found, BCM will open the door latch mechanism. Same goes for the door lock buttons in the car, and it's all down to the BCM if the inner door push buttons are going to work or not.

So if you pull the pad, see the door red light come on, then BCM is getting that first part of the command, and the problem is either with the fob, or RCDLR not seeing the fob, to let the BCM know that is OK to unlatch the door via the door latch mechanism.

As for first step, disconnect the battery for about 15 mins, to hard reset all the modules in the car (hence RCDLR in case it voltage glitched).

If that does not solve the problem, the Tech II on the car, FOB in hand for a quick walk around the car watching the BCM data fob signal strength, and if you get a dip somewhere as you are doing the full walk around, then suspect that its that RCDLR antenna at that location that is having the problem.

So on RCDLR antenna's, one in the glove box slot, one in the RCDLR itself, one on each side of the car about the gas cap location both sides, then one in the back of the car by the rear latch, for a total of 4 remote, and the one in the RCDLR itself.
Note, only one of these has to pick up the fob to all the BCM to open a door. To start the car, two of the antenna's have to pick up the fob to show it inside the car isntead. I bring this up, since if the antenna at the gas cap location has a problem, it may prevent you from getting into the car, but since two other antenna's can pick up the fob once you have it in the car, may still allow the car to start.

 

Good info cause when I walk towards the car, I put the fob above the gas cap and the door opened but not near the drivers door. So to check the RCDLR I need a tech II?

 

Maybe on the tech II, but sounds more like a problem with RF noise that is blocking the signal away from the antenna isntead.
Hell, pull the battery out of the fob to put a meter on it, and if the voltage is lower then 3 volts, replace the battery.

Also, have you disconnected the battery for about 15 mins, to hard reset all the modules in car?

 

Battery in the FOB is new. I disconnected the battery for 20 min. Still the same issue.

 

Tech II to do a quick walk around the car to check BCM data Fob signal strength at the antenna locations.

Once you do find the problem child(s), then would start by pulling the center console to get to the RCDLR above the radio to pull and clean its connectors, another quick check, then if needed, get to the antenna(s) to clean/check their connectors. If needed, you can swap out two antenna's to see if the problem moves with them and the antenna just needs to be replaced, or still a problem back up at the RCDLR with maybe a cold solder joint instead. Hence so long as you are getting a signal from the antenna (just weak), you can rule out a broken wire between the RCDLR and the antenna.

Also, double check the car for either a plug in type charger, or LED after market lights installed that are putting out a ton of RF noise that is blocking the signal.
Last one, don't keep your fob in the same pocket as your cell phone, since the cell phone can block the Fob signal as well.