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Was very happy with my 2005, and 69,600 miles and no issues at all.... Well i kept loosing power steering and charging today and on inspection i found the harmonic balancer bolt finger loose...
Any short cuts i could do to tighten it up, as funds are limited at the moment.
Not sure of short cuts....but think at the very least you need a new bolt and washer.
I am guessing, the short cut you are asking about is how to get a torque wrench on that bolt head and re-seat the pully without removing the steering rack?
Not sure, but I think to just re-tighten you also need to lock the flywheel if an automatic.
Also not sure of short cut of someone with manual trans, foot on brake and car in gear will work.
Not sure of short cuts....but think at the very least you need a new bolt and washer.
I am guessing, the short cut you are asking about is how to get a torque wrench on that bolt head and re-seat the pully without removing the steering rack?
Not sure, but I think to just re-tighten you also need to lock the flywheel if an automatic.
Also not sure of short cut of someone with manual trans, foot on brake and car in gear will work.
In for answers; good luck.
Yea im most likely gonna have to go into it fully i guess.... Dont know of anyway to get to bolt and torque without moving rack.... Will have to do it in my yard on jack stands....
Also afraid if it spun on crank if it did any damage...
That bolt is a one use bolt meaning that it can not be used twice therefore you can not just retighten the bolt. At a minimum, you must replace the bolt and tighten it according the very specific instructions from GM. Also, included in your post you are implying that the harmonic balancer was "spinning" on the end of the crankshaft hence the power steering and charging problems. If that is the case then the end of the crankshaft is surely damaged also and probably needs to be replaced.
Bolt of very hard to get to. I had to grind down a 24mm socket to get to mine. You will not be able to apply the proper torque without locking the flywheel from turning. It's like 260ft-lbs or something close to that.
That bolt is a one use bolt meaning that it can not be used twice therefore you can not just retighten the bolt. At a minimum, you must replace the bolt and tighten it according the very specific instructions from GM. Also, included in your post you are implying that the harmonic balancer was "spinning" on the end of the crankshaft hence the power steering and charging problems. If that is the case then the end of the crankshaft is surely damaged also and probably needs to be replaced.
Well it may be ok ..as crank is alot harder than balancer... Im assuming it spun on crank as i couldnt find anything wrong except loose bolt on crank.. Will not know for sure until i take it apart .
whatever you do, do it quick! i put a new engine in '73 camaro ( around 1992 ). at the time i couldn't find the H/B bolt.
told myself, i'd pick up a new one.
drove the car for a few days. while on the freeway, lost the power steering along with the
car starting to overheat. pulled over expecting to find a missing belt. no luck, i found the H/B hanging on the belt.
oh yea, buy a new H/B bolt! doh! during it's escape from the crank the H/B also took a part of the crank snout with it.
i tried twice using some loktite. no luck. after being stranded for the third, my next stop was to local chevy dealership.
got my first new vehicle ( 1992 S-10 p/u ). loaded the hell of the H/B with loktite a third time and sold the car.
heh, i got a lot of story's like this. they say you learn from your mistakes. not sure i believe that. if so, i'd been a genius by now!
whatever you do, do it quick! i put a new engine in '73 camaro ( around 1992 ). at the time i couldn't find the H/B bolt.
told myself, i'd pick up a new one.
drove the car for a few days. while on the freeway, lost the power steering along with the
car starting to overheat. pulled over expecting to find a missing belt. no luck, i found the H/B hanging on the belt.
oh yea, buy a new H/B bolt! doh! during it's escape from the crank the H/B also took a part of the crank snout with it.
i tried twice using some loktite. no luck. after being stranded for the third, my next stop was to local chevy dealership.
got my first new vehicle ( 1992 S-10 p/u ). loaded the hell of the H/B with loktite a third time and sold the car.
heh, i got a lot of story's like this. they say you learn from your mistakes. not sure i believe that. if so, i'd been a genius by now!
Yup i got a new balancer ordered, along with a NEW ARP bolt.... and a pin kit to pin the balancer.... Will be a .... job as i got to do it in my driveway...
Yup i got a new balancer ordered, along with a NEW ARP bolt.... and a pin kit to pin the balancer.... Will be a .... job as i got to do it in my driveway...
Is your car a auto or a manual? If a manual spend sometime learning about the factory balance weights installed in the damper. Important stuff.
Is your car a auto or a manual? If a manual spend sometime learning about the factory balance weights installed in the damper. Important stuff.
Its a Auto.... Got the car jacked up and rack out of car in 2 1/2 hours... Not bad since i never did one in a C6 and im working on my back...When i got both lines unhooked at rack, i noticed that there was 1 line that had O ring on the end, but the other line did not... Did i drop it ?? or is there not suppose to be one on the other line, like it may be a return line.. Here is a few pics. Worked Great to reach down with extension to get to lines.. Bolt finger loose , but balancer still on all the way wedge to hold frame down
Last edited by carls2004; Sep 26, 2020 at 05:20 PM.
Reason: Spelling
So it may be a dumb question but when installing new bolt they say to locktite it, and RTV on head of bolt.. But from what i read ARP says to use their lubricant on the threads and head of bolt/washer.... Well you cant use both of them so which is it when using new ARP bolt > their lube, or use locktite and RTV head of bolt.
BTW ... The ARP bolt is reusable. The stock GMbolt you removed is 'torque to yield' and can only be used once.
If I was going as far as you have with this job, I would replace that failure prone OEM balancer with a Dayco 'PowerBond' P/N: PB1117SS balancer (best $250 you will ever spend).
BTW ... The ARP bolt is reusable. The stock GMbolt you removed is 'torque to yield' and can only be used once.
If I was going as far as you have with this job, I would replace that failure prone OEM balancer with a Dayco 'PowerBond' P/N: PB1117SS balancer (best $250 you will ever spend).
THat exactly where im at... The PowerBond unit will be here tomorrow... BUT i didnt go for that part number, I went with their stock replacement which has good reviews and better than stock GM. ... And the ARP bolt will be here Thursday... I also have the pin kit here now...
I got the old balancer off today, and it was a mess.... Spun pretty good on the crank... Hoping replacement goes on somewhat snug ..Then ill pin it...
I noticed that the crank seal was a national brand,, so im thinking its been apart once before... Old balancer had no GM markings that i could see.
Last edited by carls2004; Sep 28, 2020 at 06:35 PM.