Moog sway bar link replacement
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 85
Likes: 18
From: Bullhead City, Arizona
Moog sway bar link replacement
Having just replaced my OEM sway bar links with the $25 Moog equivalents, I can say that the robust build quality is much better than OEM. Easy swap and it cured the common clunking noise when going over bumps in the road. Car definitely feels more stout. The bushings also need replacement but apparently there are no OEMs available, only aftermarket poly. Swap took about 45 mins.
Last edited by sneal46; Oct 21, 2020 at 03:40 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,505
Likes: 3,631
Hate to break the bad news, but the Moog's last about the same amount as the OEM's (30K'ish), and all you did was add more weigh to the car with them.
There is the spherical type bushings links, but the glitch with them, no dust covers, so kind of a environmental thing as for when the they will corrode and pit, since they are open to the elements instead.
As for the sway bar bushings, there is after market rubber bushings, but since they only last about the same as the OEM until the rubber does start to crack, the Poly sway bar bushing are the way to go. Just remember to lube both the sway bars rods at the bushings, and bushing to sway bars, with some dielectric (silcone) grease. The grease will hold up for about a year with the movement of the sway bars in the poly bushings, then it pretty quick to re-grease the poly bushing every year.
Really, if your sway arm rubber bushing are giving up the ghost, then the rest of the control arm bushing will pretty much be in the same condition, and they should be replaced as well. Hence this is just part of re-tighting up the suspension on a car that either has higher miles on it, or was left outside for the elements to do the rubber bushings in to begin with.
As for if you are getting select on the control arm bushing that you are going to replace, the one set of bushings that make the huge difference night and day itself, is the rear control arm bushing where the arm connects to the rear cradle.
Hence GM went off the deep end with the size/thickness of the rubber bushing there to smooth out the ride of the car for street use, but even when still new, a lot of squish/deflection to them, which cause problem with the rear end/tires Accordion'g under load.
Hell, watch any dyno pull on a C6 with the stock rubber bushing at the rear cradle,and as soon as you get on power, the rear tires are being pulled/defected towards the front of the wheel wells.
There is the spherical type bushings links, but the glitch with them, no dust covers, so kind of a environmental thing as for when the they will corrode and pit, since they are open to the elements instead.
As for the sway bar bushings, there is after market rubber bushings, but since they only last about the same as the OEM until the rubber does start to crack, the Poly sway bar bushing are the way to go. Just remember to lube both the sway bars rods at the bushings, and bushing to sway bars, with some dielectric (silcone) grease. The grease will hold up for about a year with the movement of the sway bars in the poly bushings, then it pretty quick to re-grease the poly bushing every year.
Really, if your sway arm rubber bushing are giving up the ghost, then the rest of the control arm bushing will pretty much be in the same condition, and they should be replaced as well. Hence this is just part of re-tighting up the suspension on a car that either has higher miles on it, or was left outside for the elements to do the rubber bushings in to begin with.
As for if you are getting select on the control arm bushing that you are going to replace, the one set of bushings that make the huge difference night and day itself, is the rear control arm bushing where the arm connects to the rear cradle.
Hence GM went off the deep end with the size/thickness of the rubber bushing there to smooth out the ride of the car for street use, but even when still new, a lot of squish/deflection to them, which cause problem with the rear end/tires Accordion'g under load.
Hell, watch any dyno pull on a C6 with the stock rubber bushing at the rear cradle,and as soon as you get on power, the rear tires are being pulled/defected towards the front of the wheel wells.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 85
Likes: 18
From: Bullhead City, Arizona
Hate to break the bad news, but the Moog's last about the same amount as the OEM's (30K'ish), and all you did was add more weigh to the car with them.
There is the spherical type bushings links, but the glitch with them, no dust covers, so kind of a environmental thing as for when the they will corrode and pit, since they are open to the elements instead.
As for the sway bar bushings, there is after market rubber bushings, but since they only last about the same as the OEM until the rubber does start to crack, the Poly sway bar bushing are the way to go. Just remember to lube both the sway bars rods at the bushings, and bushing to sway bars, with some dielectric (silcone) grease. The grease will hold up for about a year with the movement of the sway bars in the poly bushings, then it pretty quick to re-grease the poly bushing every year.
Really, if your sway arm rubber bushing are giving up the ghost, then the rest of the control arm bushing will pretty much be in the same condition, and they should be replaced as well. Hence this is just part of re-tighting up the suspension on a car that either has higher miles on it, or was left outside for the elements to do the rubber bushings in to begin with.
As for if you are getting select on the control arm bushing that you are going to replace, the one set of bushings that make the huge difference night and day itself, is the rear control arm bushing where the arm connects to the rear cradle.
Hence GM went off the deep end with the size/thickness of the rubber bushing there to smooth out the ride of the car for street use, but even when still new, a lot of squish/deflection to them, which cause problem with the rear end/tires Accordion'g under load.
https://youtu.be/nkrH4l_zt2Y
Hell, watch any dyno pull on a C6 with the stock rubber bushing at the rear cradle,and as soon as you get on power, the rear tires are being pulled/defected towards the front of the wheel wells.
There is the spherical type bushings links, but the glitch with them, no dust covers, so kind of a environmental thing as for when the they will corrode and pit, since they are open to the elements instead.
As for the sway bar bushings, there is after market rubber bushings, but since they only last about the same as the OEM until the rubber does start to crack, the Poly sway bar bushing are the way to go. Just remember to lube both the sway bars rods at the bushings, and bushing to sway bars, with some dielectric (silcone) grease. The grease will hold up for about a year with the movement of the sway bars in the poly bushings, then it pretty quick to re-grease the poly bushing every year.
Really, if your sway arm rubber bushing are giving up the ghost, then the rest of the control arm bushing will pretty much be in the same condition, and they should be replaced as well. Hence this is just part of re-tighting up the suspension on a car that either has higher miles on it, or was left outside for the elements to do the rubber bushings in to begin with.
As for if you are getting select on the control arm bushing that you are going to replace, the one set of bushings that make the huge difference night and day itself, is the rear control arm bushing where the arm connects to the rear cradle.
Hence GM went off the deep end with the size/thickness of the rubber bushing there to smooth out the ride of the car for street use, but even when still new, a lot of squish/deflection to them, which cause problem with the rear end/tires Accordion'g under load.
https://youtu.be/nkrH4l_zt2Y
Hell, watch any dyno pull on a C6 with the stock rubber bushing at the rear cradle,and as soon as you get on power, the rear tires are being pulled/defected towards the front of the wheel wells.
The bushings are next on the list. I will be researching the poly options and make the install in the next week.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 97
Likes: 75
From: Midwest
Actually, you can still buy the 2007 rear sway bar bushings from Chevrolet if you want to stay stock.
GM 10436136 ( FE1/FE2 ) - 15.2mm I.D.
GM 15241135 (FE3) - 23.2mm I.D. I believe this is also the Z51 option
Around $8 each
GM 10436136 ( FE1/FE2 ) - 15.2mm I.D.
GM 15241135 (FE3) - 23.2mm I.D. I believe this is also the Z51 option
Around $8 each
