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Morimoto Headlight Adjustment

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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 06:17 AM
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Default Morimoto Headlight Adjustment

Considering new Morimoto headlight purchase. Lots of basic installation info and videos out there, but nothing I can find on exactly how the final adjustment on the beams is done? Not so much how and where the beams should be on the wall, but getting access to the back of the light to make the adjustment after the light is installed in the C6?
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 09:21 AM
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Default led adjustments

Adjustment is easy. There is a panel in each week well for access to the back of the lights. There are two brass screws, one for up and down and one for left to right. Adjust accordingly. I used blue painters tape on the inside of my garage door and it worked like a charm. Forgot how high the tape needs to be, but you can find that on google.Make sure you have enough room. You have to be 24 feet away from the door. Hope this helps.. You're going to love the Morimoto Lets.

Dave
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by shaggyvette
Adjustment is easy. There is a panel in each week well for access to the back of the lights. There are two brass screws, one for up and down and one for left to right. Adjust accordingly. I used blue painters tape on the inside of my garage door and it worked like a charm. Forgot how high the tape needs to be, but you can find that on google.Make sure you have enough room. You have to be 24 feet away from the door. Hope this helps.. You're going to love the Morimoto Lets.

Dave
Great info. Thanks very much. That is what I was hoping to hear.
Can it be accessed in the wheel well with the tires on?
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 09:46 AM
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It’s best to adjust them with the wheels on and pointed straight ahead. If you turn the wheel it’ll shift the front end. I used a stubby Phillips screw driver and was able to squeeze my hand in there, or have someone with smaller hands/forearms.

From 25’ back on a level surface & pointed at a flat vertical surface Mark a spot in line with the point of your front emblem at 25” above ground as the center starting point. The hot spot of the lights (brightest spot) should be focused 26.75” from that center spot on each side.



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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JABCAT
It’s best to adjust them with the wheels on and pointed straight ahead. If you turn the wheel it’ll shift the front end. I used a stubby Phillips screw driver and was able to squeeze my hand in there, or have someone with smaller hands/forearms.

From 25’ back on a level surface & pointed at a flat vertical surface Mark a spot in line with the point of your front emblem at 25” above ground as the center starting point. The hot spot of the lights (brightest spot) should be focused 26.75” from that center spot on each side.


More great info.
Thank you
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 11:18 AM
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Did you guys ( above ) do your own headlight installs?
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tloon
Did you guys ( above ) do your own headlight installs?
Yes I did. I’ve installed removed them a couple times now. I did have to place a couple washers on the rear studs to reduce the gap between the top of the lights and the fenders. Some people have also swapped out the studs from the OEM lights to the Morimotos.

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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JABCAT
Yes I did. I’ve installed removed them a couple times now. I did have to place a couple washers on the rear studs to reduce the gap between the top of the lights and the fenders. Some people have also swapped out the studs from the OEM lights to the Morimotos.
I did just purchase these this afternoon from Vette Lights. He e-mailed me the installation instructions, and I noticed an option to remove the studs from the originals and install on the new, stating they were a little longer than what comes on the new lights.
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tloon
I did just purchase these this afternoon from Vette Lights. He e-mailed me the installation instructions, and I noticed an option to remove the studs from the originals and install on the new, stating they were a little longer than what comes on the new lights.
The issue is 2-fold. 1. The gasket is not as thick as the OEM gasket and 2. The OEM lights have this little “nub” on top that fits into this piece on the fender. The Morimotos don’t have that which leaves a gap at the top and requires more maneuvering to position the light correctly.




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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JABCAT
The issue is 2-fold. 1. The gasket is not as thick as the OEM gasket and 2. The OEM lights have this little “nub” on top that fits into this piece on the fender. The Morimotos don’t have that which leaves a gap at the top and requires more maneuvering to position the light correctly.


So, would you recommend that I switch out the old studs to put on the new lights?
Thanks for your help here.

Last edited by tloon; Dec 18, 2020 at 06:10 PM. Reason: mistake
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by tloon
So, would you recommend that I switch out the old studs to put on the new lights?
Thanks for your help here.
I didn’t switch out the OEM studs as I wanted to sell my headlights and I thought, easier to sell with studs in then out.
If your concerned with adjustment,Cole (VetteLights) told me they use fender washers for adjustment also. That is what I used and they worked fine and no issues going on two years now.
I used a cutting wheel to put a slice in the washers so I could do a final fit and shim when the fenders and bumper where tightened up. Also you may not need to shim them, I installed these in CorvetteEd’s corvette and we didn’t need any shims at all, they fit great right out of the box. So there is that too. They may fit fine....good luck.


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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SixAddict
I didn’t switch out the OEM studs as I wanted to sell my headlights and I thought, easier to sell with studs in then out.
If your concerned with adjustment,Cole (VetteLights) told me they use fender washers for adjustment also. That is what I used and they worked fine and no issues going on two years now.
I used a cutting wheel to put a slice in the washers so I could do a final fit and shim when the fenders and bumper where tightened up. Also you may not need to shim them, I installed these in CorvetteEd’s corvette and we didn’t need any shims at all, they fit great right out of the box. So there is that too. They may fit fine....good luck.

I had not considered the resale value. Good point. The car is a 2010 with only 13K miles. Purchased new. The lights are in really good condition, but I absolutely like that LED look. I like the fender washer cut too. Great idea. All great info here today. Greatly appreciated. Lights are Crimson Red Metallic. Maybe I will try to go that route. WH/AT IS THAT "Y" SHAPED TOOL NEXT TO THE SCREWDRIVER?
thanks

Last edited by tloon; Dec 18, 2020 at 08:12 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tloon
. WH/AT IS THAT "Y" SHAPED TOOL NEXT TO THE SCREWDRIVER?
thanks
For my grinder. To remove and install cutting or grinding wheel.
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SixAddict
For my grinder. To remove and install cutting or grinding wheel.
Oh yea. I was thinking it was some sort of tool that came with the lights!
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Old Dec 18, 2020 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SixAddict
Also you may not need to shim them, I installed these in CorvetteEd’s corvette and we didn’t need any shims at all, they fit great right out of the box. So there is that too. They may fit fine....good luck.
This is true, I didn’t need any washers when the lights were in my ‘12 GS but when I swapped them over to my ‘11 Z06 they had a noticeable gap. I took them out and used 2 washers on each of the rear studs on both side to take care of the gap.

Also, the order in which you tighten the 3 nuts can really affect the fitment as well. I recommend having someone hold them exactly where you want them and then slowly alternating tightening each nut to make sure they don’t shift.
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Old Dec 20, 2020 | 09:37 PM
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I recently installed these headlights myself on my 2010 Grand Sport after having them custom painted Crystal Red Tint to match the car. I've been a "shade tree" mechanic all my life and found this to be a very do-able project, but it did take several hours and I had my wife assist with the bumper removal and the actual install of the lights. I used a lot of painter's tape (the blue stuff) to protect my paint at every location where there was the danger of body panels scratching other body panels. It was worth the extra time it took to be very careful. I had the car up on my Quick Jacks and removed the front tires. I labeled small containers for all the plastic and metal fasteners. There are probably about 30 of these. So when it came to to put it all back together there was no confusion as to what fastener went where.

The brass adjusting screws closest to the engine bay (on both lights) is the one that raises or lowers the headlight aim. Mine required about 3 full turns to get them correct.. They came from the China factory way too high. I took the front tires off the car to make access to the adjusting screw much easier. I then lowered the jack to simulate the appropriate height, as if the front tires were on the car. But if I ever do this again, now that I know what I'm doing, I'd try to do it without removing the tires.

I swapped out the Morimoto studs for the OEM studs since the washers on these were much larger than the Morimoto washers and seemed to fit better. They lined up with the fender openings very good, with no gaps. I used the OEM gaskets.
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Old Dec 21, 2020 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveBlakeman
I recently installed these headlights myself on my 2010 Grand Sport after having them custom painted Crystal Red Tint to match the car. I've been a "shade tree" mechanic all my life and found this to be a very do-able project, but it did take several hours and I had my wife assist with the bumper removal and the actual install of the lights. I used a lot of painter's tape (the blue stuff) to protect my paint at every location where there was the danger of body panels scratching other body panels. It was worth the extra time it took to be very careful. I had the car up on my Quick Jacks and removed the front tires. I labeled small containers for all the plastic and metal fasteners. There are probably about 30 of these. So when it came to to put it all back together there was no confusion as to what fastener went where.

The brass adjusting screws closest to the engine bay (on both lights) is the one that raises or lowers the headlight aim. Mine required about 3 full turns to get them correct.. They came from the China factory way too high. I took the front tires off the car to make access to the adjusting screw much easier. I then lowered the jack to simulate the appropriate height, as if the front tires were on the car. But if I ever do this again, now that I know what I'm doing, I'd try to do it without removing the tires.

I swapped out the Morimoto studs for the OEM studs since the washers on these were much larger than the Morimoto washers and seemed to fit better. They lined up with the fender openings very good, with no gaps. I used the OEM gaskets.
Great info and very informative. I was a little apprehensive about attempting this but I have all the tools required and a good guy to help. ( We installed headers on my '07 ) I did not realize that you could reuse the existing light gaskets?
Thanks
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Old Dec 21, 2020 | 09:23 PM
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Regarding using the OEM gaskets, here's the story. According to my vendor, since I ordered the clear lenses (rather than smoked), this was the only option I had. When I received my lights they had no gaskets included in the kit. So I had no choice but to use the OEM gaskets. But, frankly, I'd rather use the OEM than gaskets made in China. So I can't comment on how the China gaskets fit. I just know that my OEM gaskets make a very good fit. So when I go to sell my factory lights I'll make sure to mention that they DON'T include the gaskets (or the studs).


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