2009 base auto with Z51. Been smelling antifreeze every now and then for at least the last four months and couldn't find the problem until this past week with a very small seeping leak on the upper left drivers side of radiator. Anyway not sure if I want to go with another stock one( plastic/aluminum) or an all aluminum one off of eBay. Don't need a high performance one as I have no issue's at all with temps even living in Arizona. Wondering if anyone has used one of those? Plus, little confused as how they have these radiators listed on all all sites including Rock Auto. My car is bone stock, transmission cooler is part of the radiator, engine cooler is not and is external. Yet all listings are asking if I have a engine oil cooler. Wondering if the manual cars use the radiator for engine oil cooler instead of having a external cooler.

 

My radiator cracked in the same place as yours. I bought one from ECP, link below. I am really impressed with the quality and ease of installation. This piece slid right in as nice as an OEM stock radiator. I did have to buy new transmission oil cooler fittings to work with my stock lines, but was able to pick them up from a local chain auto parts store for less than $15. Fast shipping and great customer service from ECP.

https://speedcooling.com/


https://speedcooling.com/product-cat...rvette/page/2/

 

Why did you have to get different fittings? Couldn't you use the ones from your original radiator?

 

The threaded holes for the transmission line fittings in the new radiator (outer diameter) were larger than the original radiator transmission line fittings. Like I said, it was really no big deal. Just went to the store and bought two larger fittings and all was fine.

 

Do you have a part number for the fittings?

 

RIP had the same thing happen to me last week, apparently its a pretty common issue to get a hairline crack in the upper left side of the radiator after like 130k. I just replaced mine with OEM,

 

If you’re happy with your current radiator, I suppose you could have a radiator shop replace the side tanks. I did this on my C4.

 

I bought two of these and they worked just like the stock fittings. An aluminum radiator will cool better and last longer for just a few dollars more. Heck, may even be cheaper than a stock replacement in your area. I have no regrets with the one I purchased from ECP. I watched you tube vids of some replacing their radiator with fleabay aluminum radiators and had issue with leaks, brackets being bent, and damaged fins from being packed poorly. No issues with any of that with mine...

 

Thanks for all your help especially with the fittings. You're more help then ECP as they never answered any of the questions I sent them.

 

Agree with that aspect of ECP. It takes them about 2 days to answer an email. Call them, they always answered the 4 times I called. Ask for Frank. I really gave you more info than they gave me anyway. If you call them to order the radiator, they'll ship it the same day, if later they'll ship it the next day.

 

Just finished installing the ECP radiator yesterday and everything you said about it is true. I'll do a small write up about it next. They now come with the proper fittings for the trans too so no need to use the old or buy new ones. One thing I want to ask you is have you checked your trans oil level ? I didn't loose much fluid but sure seems that since the radiator is so much larger then OE I suspect it holds more trans fluid. ,

 

Just wanted to do an update. As suggested by Org39 I purchased a ECP radiator. These radiators are a work of art and its almost a shame to cover it all back up once installed. They're also twice the thickness of stock and when you first see it you'd wonder how in the heck its going to fit. It does and it actually fits better then OE and easier to install. Getting the old one out was a chore, not fun at all. Wound up breaking the clips off the front that held the AC condenser to finally get the dam thing out. Was really worried about how the new one was going to get back in. Apparently ECP must have anticipated this because those tabs that hold the condenser in are slightly different and that's all you need to get the condenser in place. I have no idea how you'd get a stock one back in without disconnecting that condenser. One word of advice, there's a clamp that holds the ac line in place that's just forward of the fuse box on the passenger side, disconnect it along with removing all the fasteners for the air deflector shroud so you can move that forward. Those two things just give you just enough room to lift the condenser up and into the hooked mounts on the radiator. Haven't filled it yet with coolant as I decided to order a vacuum filler instead of adding coolant the traditional way so I'll wait for that to come in. The only thing that I might want to do is check the trans fluid level since it'll take more fluid to fill the auto trans part of the cooler. At $336.00 including shipping I have no idea why anyone replacing their radiator would want an OE one.

 

I thought about checking the trans oil level, but a little tricky on these from what I found on the interweb. I just added about 3/4 of a quart of fluid into the oil cooler before I connected the top line. I figured I lost about 1/4 of a quart at most when I disconnected the lines and what was left in the old radiator. Actually, I tried draining the fluid out of the old radiator into a measuring cup, and only got about 1/4 cup of fluid out. On the new radiator with the bigger cooler, I figured 3/4 of a quart would be fine. I have had no shifting or slipping issues at all since I've done the swap.







.

 

Its really not that hard checking the trans oil but you do have to jack it up put it on jack stands and make the car level while running and open the check level plug while the trans temp is around 200 if I remember correctly.

 

What makes you think the AT heat exchanger in the new rad holds more fluid? Just because the rad has more capacity doesn't automatically cause the heat exchanger for the AT to be larger. Maybe all you lost is what you drained from the old rad.

 

Since I don't know that answer it's not that big of a deal to go thru the checking procedure. I don't want to be driving around wondering if its low or not. Hopefully I'll have chance to do it today or tomorrow . I lost barely a half a pint if I lost that much and as far coolant capacity it holds about a gallon more.

 

This is my final update with this project. After bringing the trans temp up to the proper temp of 120 degrees ( I stated the wrong temp earlier) I pulled the check level plug on the pan and nothing came out. So removed that PIA fill plug added a little more then one quart and once I opened the plug on the pan about 1 pint came out before it began to trickle. You need to do this while the car is running and in park up on jack stands or a lift. Car needs to be level. I did the service on the trans last summer so I know that the level was perfect before putting the new radiator in. Since I lost very little taking the old radiator out my conservative est is this new one takes at least 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart more trans fluid. Test ride want well, seems the trans temp is about 15 to 20 degrees cooler then it was before. Again I highly recommend this radiator should you have a problem with the OE as for just a few more dollars it's not worth putting a OE in again, no comparison between the two.

 

I purchased a ECP radiator for my 08 Corvette @auto trans, i think that the ECP radiator is pure junk, for example the condenser didn't fit properly because the mounting tabs where misaligned. it get back to that old saying: you get what you pay for. Pay cheap today pay more tomorrow.

 

My condenser fit with no problems far better then the OE one. Fit an finish is as good as I've seen on any race car. I wouldn't call $336 cheap as that's more money then an OE. Sorry you had a problem, I didn't and I'd buy another tomorrow.

 

nplenzick: I have an 2008 auto-Z51 and i know the trans is cooled by the radiator but i have never seen a engine oil cooler? i was told that only the manuals had a engine oil cooler which is also cooled from the radiator did i read you post wrong that you have an external oil cooler?.....I'm old as dirt and maybe i took it wrong?...Thanks